saveasteading

We got similar from Topps. Big discount for what they call a pallet order, which I think means too much for the car. I think this can vary by region and branch. Still close to £30/m2 but it's classy. All long tiles bend and you need a wedge and clip system to lay them, which will add a few£ /m2. You must see an opened pack to look closely at the pattern. Does it look like a print or wood? How many repeats? Real wood has zero repeats. The shop people don't necessarily ' get it' that this may matter. The display panels can even have coincident patterns which shows they don't understand. But that's me, and maybe it doesn't matter to you, or visitors or future buyers. With 15 to 20 patterns and reversing you have 30 to 40 ways.

For precast plank floors remember that you need artic and crane access. For 8m span they'll be about 200mm thick then insulation and screed above. I agree that considering the build method is worth considering early, but also that there can be too much detail. Can I ask what draws you towards precast panel walls? I'm not against it, but it wouldn't be my first choice. 2.5 storeys is tall and skinny. Where are you with planning permission?

Got any pictures? I haven't heard of this. Tolerance adjustment seems one very good reason for a grout gap.

Might that be 450m2 or 4500ft2?

The secret is is to call it something else. Not beige either. Having watched paint mixing close up on many occasions it has struck me how tiny were some of the additions of a particular dye. Whether the last drop clung to the nozzle or went into the mix would make a big difference. The crud dried around the nozzles should all have been in someone's tin. Even different batches from the same supplier can be diffferent. If you have to change paint supplier or even batches, it is impossible to see it if applied to different planes. So change at a room corner, or anywhere with a break, duch as a door or curtain.

The principle is to not have the drains take any load from the building. In approx terms the loads spread at 45° into the earth from the bottom of the foundation. so keep drains above that notional line. But there's a very strong chance of damaging the drain if in early. So work out where it's going but do it later. If there isn't room then ask again.

Partly seriously.....when we had a gang of Polish workers, they cooked their own superb meals on site, mostly a rich stew. We put a drainage digester in early, saving on sucklift removal, but I'd swear that the system was primed and running better than ever before or since.

How would we know whether we were buying a good or bad capacitor for a replacement.

That's the issue. These multi-layer products have foil on the outside, bouncing rays back into a room, but also in the middle where they bounce it onto the thin foam sitting next to it, from where it can conduct . also their explanations of why it can't have a U value but that doesn't matter. were unconvincing. They were basically saying that the approved test methods aren't fair. That was 4 years ago, say maybe there is progress.

I got permission for a soakaway at 4m. There wasn't any alternative, the original architect had messed it up, and the bco agreed it was OK in the circumstances. There's nothing magic happens at these distances but it may depend on site circumstances.

Yes. Changing the state of water from liquid to vapour absorbs a lot of energy, then you vent the damp air out of the building. And repeat and repeat for many days. Then suddenly you've got rid of the water and the fabric can warm. Natural ventilation ( big draughts) can be as quick and no heating, but weather dependant.

I'd use them in my garden shed t garage but that's all. I went to a lecture by them, oddly supported by the bco department. ( free sandwiches from the company?) They were very poor at answering questions.

So that's your forecast.

Want to forecast? Too late for any checking, but i think 20mm for acoustics is a pragmatic choice to compromise between thermal and acoustic properties snd to suit window frames. Ie a bigger gap works better for sound but is rubbish for heat, so choose something inbetween.

There is a gap width at which air starts to circulate in the space warm air rising on one side. Hence double glazing has a narrow gap for thermal effect and a wider gap for acoustics. The skylights used in commercial roofs can be simple double skin boxes, but can be treble, but work better with an infill resembling....the best I can think of is wine box separators. That contains the air in pockets. For this reason, the service void we've put on our walls will help insulation but perhaps not as much as the spreadsheet says. Great work @SteamyTea. comment to @saveasteading about this experiment, but can't remember in what context. Neither can I.

I'm a fan of it but.... One heavy lorry braking or turning hard can wreck it. The edges chip off over time. I'd repair with more planings. It is an engineered blend of stone plus a little bit of sticky stuff, as long as it isn't fine, footpath material. Clean and prime the potholes. Put the new material in in stages, bashing it with a rammer.

But management can pass the responsibility on to the king, as it is a royal decree. I think this was introduced about 10 years ago during a recession or fuel shortage along with reducing speed limits. The speed limits reverted but temperatures not, and no fuss as far as I'm aware.

Agreed. You've got one chance to build to a high spec, and on a small building the cost difference will soon get repaid in heating bills. The Scottish rules require the design to be by an approved designer. Annoyingly as I'm not on thd register. Once you've got a project, ask around for one who is both reasonably priced and designs economically. I've just seen a video of the weather in Thurso a few days ago. It would blow a caravan over. But you may choose a sheltered Glen. Re caravan v proper house costs. I worked with a guy who built a cabin for his development site. He made it look like a hired cabin so that it didn't trouble the planners, and he said it cost half of a commercial cabin, but was properly insulated and sturdier. Then he forgot to remove it for a few years. Timber building is standard in the Highlands and 'stick build' is usually much cheaper than a kit.

What size is it ?

This is displayed in a Spanish bank and applies to all offices and retail buildings. Very sensible say I and it must save huge amounts of energy. It is an Act of Parliament. Corporates won't be running the cooling at shirt sleeve temperatures in winter, just because they can. Staff won't be arguing that the temperature is too high and too low at the same time. 19 isn't high enough that people open windows. Jumper industy benefits too. To summarise. Heating can only be used below 19C. Cooling can only be used sbove 27C. Doors must be closed. Electric signs are turned off at night. Would we have to change the numbers for UK use?

@Jenkiis the small unit expert. A new build is better value than a mobile. For small timber buildings there is a particular design guide for non-experts but it still requires high numeracy. Going out, more to follow.

If the roof and walls are gone, it isn't a building. Many planning permissions have been lost on this basis, even if genuinely accidental. Then the foundations can not be deemed ok just because they have performed for many years. How many walls must remain? I've no idea. I'd recommend don't play games but get it clarified.

Who is doing the drain? Don't assume groundworkers control the slope properly. They often just guess, at your expense. Diy? Use a long spirit level and tape packing under one end. 1:60 requires 6mm of packing under a 1m level. Can I persuade you to install a treatment package? You'll save a lot of money on the drainage field to justify the package extra. If your percolation is that good, I'd suggest rainwater goes into perforated pipes to dissipate it, instead of rubble soakaways

You mean access Chambers? NB they lose height, about 60mm. You have two fixed references, the bath outlet at the top of the run, and the tank if it is already in. 1. Tank not in? Slope your drain from the top at 1:60, installing access Chambers according to the regulations. All side entries are installed to fit, all being steeper than 1:60. It may need some bends. Tank installed to suit the end level. 2. Tank already in? Either lay as above and adjust the final length to suit, or average out the fall. Check the levels before starting. Do you mean septic? That would imply it is an existing, rather old, tank.

It's not logical. The Scottish rules are far too conservative.