saveasteading

Of course, don't give too much specific info until the purchase is secure. However, the more you can, the more useful will be the advice. First questions. Steel, concrete or timber structure? What cladding? Size?

Are the ducts insulated?

How thick is the floor? Presumably there is a 100mm concrete block, filling between beams, then a pir layer above, then the screed. That would not require air bricks in the void, as there isn't timber that would rot. I have often toyed with ways to insulate underneath a beam and block floor, but always decided against. The duvet thing seems unusual. Perhaps an idea gone wrong. Can you prod it or even hook some out? It being wet is a concern too. More thought required. Once all done, you will need to find a good way to infill and insulate the inspection hole.

1. Not many 2. Some, and some on here know more than I do. I say insulate internally. Presumably you have a solid 9" wall. The outside already gets very cold. The main solution is to ensure that the wall sheds liquid water. No drips, tidy pointing, drains or slopes taking water away frlm the walls.

Its possible that the render is impermeable, and keeping the damp in.

You get back most of the vat you have paid.. NB Paid. So 20% on materials you bought direct. But if you have paid a contractor 5%, then you claim back only the 5%. The contractor sorts out the rest. You claim only once. 3) No.

Btw most of us stay anonymous, paranoid or sensibly? You could repost if you wanted.

I think she has to move you out after that. Seriously...good on you, here are my immediate thoughts. External insulation would be expensive, need lots of thought and especially cause detailing issues at openings and the eaves. And planning issues. Internal is easy and diy. It shouldn't increase erosion of bricks. Instead check out why the walls are wet. Rendering requires caution too. Can you show photos of the wall in question?

It's courtesy too. Thought and time goes into these contributions yet sometimes the op is not heard from again. In a lotbof cases it seems that it isnt what they wanted to hear. Thanks @Kelvin for your summary. I will never mind getting a reminder if i haven't closed one of my queries.

That is meaningless though. / bco too. This is a technical matter but for your family's safety. It needs a proper read through the regs with the design to hand. It's the Architect's job if retained. It isn't the bco's job to design your house so be patient with them.

Groundhog day.. we seem tomhave the same points as on the previous pages. If the bco requires it, then it is a fire door. It has to be fire rated. It has to self close. Is the bco correct? I don't think we can say without seeing the drawings.

I heard Herr Bosch on the radio once. He explained that diy drills will only ever be used for, say, 4 hours actual operation, and are built to suit. You get precisely what you pay for. I have a new £30 Bosch drill just for small jobs. It struggles with heavy drilling but it's light and not too big. I have a very old, quite expensive one, shaped like a machine gun. The motor whirrs yet the power is stunning, but its a bit heavy. All my dewalt is smooth and efficient. Choose what you need, but don't bd underpowered.

OK, thanks We are all correct. Anyone can apply for planning permission. You have to inform the owner. The application proceeds whether or not they comment or approve.

Glad to hear it. Can you show where that is confirmed?

We have an office that we built ourselves. I was very disappointed with a D Rating, because air source was considered a bad thing then, and no gimmicks. We have just had it reassessed, with no changes, and got a B. B is good. The epc programme used to be seriously flawed and probably still is. Build quality, other than air test, isn't accounted for. Look at the recent discussion on the house with missing insulation, which was signed off. So don't stress. Well done.

I believe it has, and would have messaged had I not seen it said already. Neither do you need permission to start work, but may be made to demolish again. I suggest a letter to the planning officer, explaining the circumstances and requesting being advised at all stages. Sending by special delivery gets you proof of receipt, or hand the letter over to reception and get a receipt.

Topsoil contains organic matter which will rot, and your patio would settle irregularly. Hardcore can be cheap but coarse so break up any big lumps. You'll see brick demo material in skips. Maybe the builder will bring some to you. Then cover with very good commercial stone. Type 1 or type 2.

There is a big difference between measuring for an estimate, and measuring for construction. It also depends who is paying.... A joiner will add 10% waste if someone else is paying. Less if his own.

The suppliers want orders to the nearest half m3. Being short can be a big problem, so it is always rounded up. That is a small proportion of waste in an industrial floor slab, or a bridge abutment, but significant in a domestic pour. The typical waste is therefore about 1/4 m3 per 'pour'. Dumped somewhere on site x how many projects every day?

Volumetric is great for supplying the exact quantity. I didn't know that any would do a pump mix.

Great description. So they set the arachnids, dipped the levels and ordered the exact amount of screed? Clever. No waste? There is always some, or they're scraping out the mixer for some more.

As an estimator I always do / did this if it was my own take- off. For part of a big job it is near enough quits with brick or plaster area saving being near enough = to the fiddly work. But as a bricky or plasterer it would more significant. Thus if you deduct some fiddly work, there is a genuine saving in time and cost. BUT change is never good. At the very least, they had to remember not to do that bit. Contractually, they are entitled to the profit they would have made on thd work deducted, even if there are extras. Some compromise is required.

It usually is.

@Gus Potter. Youve noticed what I hadn't, that it appears to be a metal kit with timber infills. I still think it needs a packer, as the earlier discussion.

Looking forward to bco explanation, in case there is something I'm not understanding. "Why?" is the differentiator between good bcos and the others.