ProDave

In Scotland you cetainly can. You ask building control for a certificate of temporary habitation. For that the house has to be basically safe, have at least one working bathroom and some heating.

I know certain electrical forums tend to be hostile towards DIYers, not something I personally support. At the length you have, it's the voltage drop (measured in volts not milliamps ) that is the limiting thing that determines the cable size to use, not the current carrying capacity. And the discussions about maximum demand can get interesting as well. There is nothing wrong with an unskilled person installing cables under the supervision of a skilled person who is going to test and sign off the work, but some in the trade don't even like doing that. Personally if someone wants to do the more tedious manual work then I am happy with that. Make sure you bury the cable deep enough, with some yellow "electrical cable below" warning tape in the trench just above it. P.S, I would have put your meter box in your wall at the back corner (top as viewed in the plan) It would drastically shorten the run to the house, but perhaps make the garage run slightly longer.

Thanks Barney. The waste in that 900 by 1200 is offset enough to miss my joist.

That will do it. Now all I want it a technical drawing of it showing the EXACT position of the drain. Why is such basic information so hard to find, surely that is something everyone will want before ordering one? What does one then use for the boards for the rest of the wet room? 22mm green "waterproof" chipboard? Surely the whole lot is going to be coated or painted in something to make it 100% waterproof before tiling?

Good start Peter, but I need 1200 (not 1300 or 1400) by 900 At 1400 it would be out of the room!!!

I was going to start a topic, but i'll share this one. Recommend me a 1200 by 900 former, 22mm thick (to match to 22mm floor boards) Waste must be offset from centre otherwise it will land on a joist. It's to fit over posi joists on 600mm centres. Can it span the joists (i.e is it structural like a floor board) or do I have to contrive additional support underneath?

Got a door on the WC. What luxury. When we moved into the last house we only had a cardboard door on the loo.

I think he means ply as a packer to space the aquapanel off the studs so it clears the soil pipe. Or machine out the back of the aquapanel to clear the soil.

In Scotland the limit is 10M3 per day under GBR (General Binding Rules) you can abstract that from surface water or borehole without licence.

The Conder, Vortex and Graff that get a lot of mention on here are all showing respectable results in that table, I wonder why the Biopure is not listed there? I would avoid most of the Klargester type of products personally as I don't like the idea of having to repair a treatment plant with moving mechanical parts.

You could always make the turning space out of "grass blocks" those perforated concrete slabs that let the grass grow through, but are strong enough to drive a car on.

We had the standard condition about turning, I think because there is no speed limit on our road. The fact it only serves 8 houses and has very little traffic does not seem to enter the equation. We can turn on our own land, but never do, we just reverse out onto the road. The planning condition says you must be able to turn, not that you WILL turn before exiting.

The only option I can think is trap door(s) to access pipes. I doubt you even have enough space to go crawling around under there.

A quick google found this, which will fit in 9 metres, so your 12 metres will be plenty. https://www.suffolk.gov.uk/assets/suffolk.gov.uk/Business/Planning and Design Advice/DC Standard Drawings/DM05_A-SCC SCD.pdf

The trouble with rock, is transport costs. When we were down south we wanted some for a garden project. Could not find any locally, and refused to pay garden centre prices. We solved it when visiting relatives in Northumberland where it was abundant, and brought back as much as I thought the car could carry, distributed around all the footwells etc to spread the weight rather than pile it all in the boot.

I knew I should not have read this thread. DIY Beer can UFH spreader plates anyone?

Ever thought of buying your own digger?

I know it's a big house. easily twice the size of mine so of the order of 300 square metres floor area. 2.7 metre ceilings downstairs, and vaulted ceilings to most bedrooms.

Just to add to this. A nearby self builder (who's house I am wiring at the moment) is going to great pains to make it airtight but is not fitting mvhr. He has a central extract system for wet rooms and trickle vents in the windows. Today he tells me he has had the air tightness test done today. The figure is 1.7 I don't know what units that is other than it's not ACH. He has been told that is "too good" so me must now introduce positive input ventilation as well now. I kept telling him to fit an mvhr unit, now he will have mechanical ventilation, but without the benefit of the heat recovery.

No It will syphon over the top bit.

The Barriar does not have the reinforcing webbing that the Intello has, but it still seems pretty strong. Another plus for the Barriair is that it has a built in double sided air tightness tape along the length of a roll, so that saves a lot of air tightness tape. I only found out about the Barriar from another local self builder who is using it. I got it from Jewson's but it has to be ordered.

Re the electric. You need to get a quote from your DNO to move the supply out of the house, to an outside meter box of some sort (which you must provide). The actual connection must be done by your DNO but you can do some of the work, e.g trenching. You can either take the view this outside meter box is temporary, then pay again to have the supply moved into the new house. Or do as several on here have done, make the outside meter box a permanent thing and when the house is build just run a SWA submain into the house from there. Once you have the meter in a box, any electrician will connect a supply to the static caravan and a site socket or two, both of which must be connected to a TT earth, not the DNO's earth. Likewise your water. when you have located the pipe, all you need is a plumber to divert it to a standpipe and into the caravan. If you find an old rusty steel pipe, now is the time to replace it with mdpe back to the stopcock. P.S where in South Oxfordshire? that is my old stomping ground.

I was wondering if anyone would mention those diagonals. That is me just over engineering things as usual. This is a timber framed house with wood fibre cladding so no blockwork shell. So all the strength is in the timber frame. The structrtal engineer specified two layers of OSB on the skin of the frame to give it sufficient racking strength, which I have done. But I had a load of 6 by 1 left over that had been temporary bracing during the build, so I thought no harm in having a bit more bracing to the frame that will be hidden in the service void.

I have found the problem. It's a know issue with some sites miss reading the "user agent" of the browser. There's a fairly easy fix which I will try when I am next on the other PC.

Thanks all. There must be something strange about PaleMoon identifying itself as a mobile device, clearly I need to delve deeper into the settings. Fine on this PC on either chromium or firefox