ProDave

No, Scotland will stick to the 17th as they refuse to accept a majority of the UK voted to leave.

Send that to George Clark for his next amazing spaces.

As long as the socket for the tv is 3M from the hot tub...... Why not take the "easy option" for a "garden building" Once it's done as being our home, it will be converted to workspace / studio's. We chose this one due to it's centre living room layout. One big room in the middle that will become a studio. A bedroom at each end, one will become a workshop the other a store room. The WC will remain but the shower will be removed to make a cupboard. It will get wrapped in another layer of insulation and timber clad to make it look more like a big shed.

@Crofter is your man for inspiration. Sounds very much like his build. If you make it that warm and cosy everyone will move out of the house into the shed. Didn't you ought to finish the bathroom before starting a new project?

Our Timber Frame was perfectly flat enough to fix the wood fibre direct to it with long screws and big plastic washers (the pictures just shows a few scres, a lot more were added later)

Brick plus cavity =150mm thick for almost no contribution to insulation. Wood fibre board applied direct to (thicker than normal in my case) timber frame =100mm thick, and adds more insulation to the building. The lack of cavity and hence need to ventilate it will also make the structure more inherently air tight. Battens, counter battens and render board is probably not a lot thinner than the wood fibre board, and does not add the the insulation. Plus, like the block or brick skin needs vents and expansion joints.

I didn't want a block outer skin. I wanted the whole wall make up to add to the buildings insulation. Hence why I settled on100mm thick wood fibre board. I guess I am lucky I don't need a mortgage, and not planning to sell in a hurry. One advantage of the wood fibre system is there is no cavity, so no need for weep ventilators no expansion joints. The window detail seems to some extent be a local thing. Up here they almost never continue the rough cast top coat into the ingo's, instead leaving those just finished with the base coat. I did insist my garage door ingo's which are much deeper were done with the top coat.

That's probably the rubbish my dad had. But I see the principle now.

I think I said this in another thread recently. Boy that's a big un. Our present house has 2 glulam beams hidden in the roof. I think if I had known just ho nice they can look, I woudl have asked for the design to be such that part of them was on show. My new house uses Kurto beams, aparently Glulams would have been far too big to get the strength.

If it has a hose, then is it "airless" doesn't that just mean it comes with a compressor? When I was a boy, my dad bought what I regard as a true "airless" sprayer. It was all in one. A hand held thing that had a paint receptacle you filled and screwed on the bottom,and a mains flex. When you pressed the trigger, a motor whirred and it squirted paint out. I don't recall it being very good, and he had to keep dismantling thr nozzle and unblocking it.

thanks. Page duly bookmarked, though I probably only need 10 metres of gas duct.

I know the DNO will not feed a cable through the wrong coloured duct, which is usually black,but some areas it's red. But if I am reading this correctly, if the meter is remote (as ours is) then it will be YOUR cable, not the DNO's in the duct. I uses SWA mostly buried direct in the ground, only using black duct to bring it up through the foundations into the house. I solved the half reel conundrum by looking on ebay and buying some part rolls of blue and black duct, BUT I still need some yellow gas pipe duct if someone wants to split a roll with me?

You know you will come to miss it. When done with for living in, ours will become a 28 square metre garden outbuilding. It will probably then get a bit more insulation and some timber cladding to make it look less like a caravan. I would never otherwise build a shed that large. This will give us a decent amount of work space to compensate for a smaller house. The toilet will remain, every self respecting shed needs a toilet....

Just make sure you stack it above a supporting wall, not mid span (seen that done before then lots of props put underneath to stop the joists sagging)

He had the unfair advantage of having first hand experience with then.

i took a different view. I levelled and grassed most of the site before I sold the digger. So now all I have to do is some paths, some raised decking, and some more sheds. I am the only idiot that now has to mow the lawn around the unfinished house.

My that was a big un.

My gripe with foam guns is why can't you buy small ones? I buy the £4 ones from the likes of Tolstation, usually 750ml but I rarely use a whole can. I tried to use a half can the other day that had been part used about 2 months ago. Completely useless it had all gone solid inside the can. Why does nobody make and sell say a 300ml size for a couple of £ then it could genuinely be use a bit and throw away, which is usally what happens with the bigger ones, but I hate waste.

I wonder if that might at least be a route to pay for the expensive deep foundations needed? There is an interesting one near me. My neighbours garden has the old Dounereay 200KV overhead line running over it on a temporary wayleave. Her son bought half her garden and built a new house. Last year he served them the 1 years notice to remove the line. It hasn't gone yet. I expect they are "negotiating"

And it becomes even more tricky when your floor finish changes in different parts of the house and you want to be able to transition from a tiled area to say a hardwood floored area WITHOUT any step at all.

I share your pain. Although I didn't start with a dud design (I started with a bare plot with no design) I had immense difficulty finding an architect or a designer that would design what I want, and charge a fair fee for doing so. Plenty that wanted to design what they wanted for an extortionate fee.

Late to this thread (must have missed it first time around) I don't like the idea of a rocker switch. To me that means you turn it to boost and then later turn it back to normal. I am planning to have in the kitchen, and next to the bathrooms a timed "boost" switch, probably thinking along the lines of the Horstman immersion heater boost switches where you can typically boost if from 15 minutes to over an hour in steps. This will need a relay or two to interface it with the mvhr. but I like the idea of push the button get in the shower and forget it. Some time later it will switch itself back to normal.

That is conventional wisdom. When I bought a previous 1930's house it had "rising damp" which was caused by the original render bridging the DPC ansd was cured by hacking off the render below DPC and leaving that bare, and forming a bellcast at DPC level. That ws a 9" solid wall. But up here, even on a new build timber framed house, it is common for the roughcast render to extend right down into the ground clearly bridging the DPC. One can only wonder what issues they are storing up for the future, and only the cavity can stop the damp tracking up into the TF.

Well the neighbour has the SEPA document so now know he shouldn't do it. Next move is up to him.

I am worried WHY your blocks are "wobbly" and I hope you mean wobbly as in not level, rather than they wobble?