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ProDave

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Everything posted by ProDave

  1. ProDave
    But what about when someone wants to drive a car along it?
  2. ProDave
    Try and get more insulation under the UFH otherwise some of your heat just heats up the ground under your extension. Do you need a SAP assesment for an extension? if so that should tell you the heating demand. Without that it's hard so size a system. That's a big extension, bigger than some people's entire house. I am going to be using an air source heat pump, probably a colder but less windy location to you. Search around for a bargain and you will buy the heat pump quite cheap, then it's just plumbing and some wiring. If it's only running the low temperature UFH then it should work very well. I would suggest fitting a buffer tank to avoid the heat pump short cycling.
  3. ProDave
    Long shot, but look up "woofers" Usually East Europenans, travelling, will do almost anything in return for board and lodging. Very common source of short term labour on farms, and a near neigbour "employed" one to help re landscape their garden. Also the passive house builder up here, in their early days employed them as building labourers.
  4. ProDave
    They don't "need" to be 50mm back, it's just that if they are less than 50mm, the circuit must be protected by an rcd.
  5. ProDave
    My only gripe is nobody else apart from electricians knows about safe zones. I am not convinced they are entirely well thought out. I have seen it before, someone wants to hang a picture on a wall. There is a socket below it. So to make it "look right" out comes the tape measure to ensure the picture is exactly centred on the location of the socket........
  6. ProDave
    +1 to running horizontally from socket to socket. I had a stand up finger wagging argument last year with the joiner building a house I was wiring, he was trying to tell me you can't do that and must take the cables up above the ceiling across and back down again And yes that left hand run looks to be more than 150mm down from the ceiling.
  7. ProDave
    1978 for me, at the age if 15
  8. ProDave
    "liftt" is just how many platforms. e.g with Kwikstage, you can put a platform at 50cm intervals. So for my gable wall, the first platform was 2 metres above ground, the next 2 metres above that, etc. I had 4 platforms to reach the gable so "4 lifts" My guess is it stems from the process of "lifting" planks up to the next stage. Someone will come along and explain that much better than I have.
  9. ProDave
    I don't know what house prices and plot prices are where you are looking, but few of us would advise a self build as a way to get a cheaper house, unless you can do a lot of the work yourself. Rather it is a way to get the house that you want, built to the standards that you want, rather than a builders off the peg standard box. You don't need to jump through all the hoops and pay fees for a house certified as a PH. Many of us are just building very well insulated, well sealed houses that we know will be very energy eficcient without having them certified as such.
  10. ProDave
    The thread would not be complete without a mention of the system scaffolds like Kwikstage and cuplock. I have a load of Kwikstage that has done my whole house right up to 4 lifts high for the end gables. While it is normally 2.4 metre by 1.2 metre (5 planks wide) I also have a few short transoms that make a narrow 3 board wide section, and a few shorter ledgers and planks that make 6ft long bays instead of the usual 8ft.
  11. ProDave
    I have said before, just buy a heat pump and any plumber can install it (okay monoblock only, needs a specialist to gas a split system) All I have seen from packages systems is big price tags. Do you have any SAP calculations or anything else to actually tell you what your heat input requirements will be? Without that you are guessing what size unit to fit.
  12. ProDave
    I do the same with a 25mm packer (offcut of tile batten) taped to a 1M level.
  13. ProDave
    Here is a close up of one of the frames. That's an opening window, I like the crisp clean unfussy lines. That's a smooth "pebble grey" finish. I think you can have any RAL colour you like and a textured paint is an option. I never did directly compare the cost of ali clad Vs just wood so can't comment on the extra cost.
  14. ProDave
    Without a doubt I would say consider a third option, Aluminium clad timber. All the maintenance free advantages of upvc, can be painted any colour you want, and much much nicer looking than upvc. For that crisp look you want, I would highly recommend the Rationel Aura plus windows we have, the external profile is so clean and crisp.
  15. ProDave
    Looks good. One man's "shed" is another man's "warehouse"
  16. ProDave
    My point is, it's not completely de skilling plastering. It would be no good just spraying it on unprepared plasterboard, the tapered edge joints would show. So you have to do something, tape and fill the joints, so it's not a "lot" of saving in skill is it? Perhaps it just hides slight imperfections in the taping and filling?
  17. ProDave
    So it relies on you taping and filling all the joints first to present a flat surface, and presumably all the corners as well. So is little more than a thick paint?
  18. ProDave
    Bedroom 1 is going to be a cold uninviting room with only a window to the north. Get an east facing velux window in the sloping roof, if necessary pushing back the boxed in eaves space to fit it in. That will brighten up the mornings. Likewise get a west facing velux in the en-suite. And put a window in bedroom 4 Make the door between the kitchen and the "back passage" a sliding pocket door. I am willing to bet you will never shut it and it will just be in the way.
  19. ProDave
    Which way is North? more importantly which way is South?
  20. ProDave
    Do get the access checked out and a legal right of access from MK council drawn up. We had a potential access issue buying our plot. The plot was last sold in 1980 (with PP but was never built on) and then, the road was a private track. The plot came with a right of access to use that private track. In the intervening time the track was upgraded and adopted as a public road. My solicitor made the point of checking the new public road was indeed in the same place as the old private track. Had the new public road been built to a different route there could well have been a strip of land between the plot and the road that we did not own.
  21. ProDave
    You normally dig alongside the existing foundation and down until you just find the bottom of the concrete.
  22. ProDave
    I understand what they are doing, but if they have been using it for access for more than 10 years, would Adverse Possession not apply?
  23. ProDave
    Thanks Grosey I have re jigged it slightly, this is what I want. Looks a fair price to me. http://www.stairbox.com/stairbuilder-staircase-designer/?dmVyc2lvbjIuMy1zYy0yNzAwLTEzLTIzMC42Ny05MzAtOTMwLTkzMC1sZWZ0LWhhbGZfdHVybi1ub25lLTNfd2luZGVyLTUtTmFOLWxlZnQtc3F1YXJlLUxCdWxsbm9zZS1tZGYtc3F1YXJlLTAtMC0wLTAtMS1waW5lLW1kZi1waW5lLXBpbmUtcGluZS1hc3NlbWJsZWQtY29sbGVjdGVkLS1mYWxzZS0xLTAtMC0xLTAtbm9uZS0wLTAtMS0wLW5vbmUtMC0xLTAtMC0wLTAtMC0wLTAtMC0wLTAtMC0wLTAtMC0wLTAtMC1kb3VibGUtMC0wLTAtMC1TVEQtLWZhbHNlLVNxdWFyZVNwaW5kbGUtNDEtMTQwLTU4LTAtMA==
  24. ProDave
    If you have an UVC then the flow rate from the shower is a product of your water pressure, pipe sizes etc and not related to boiler output. If you have a combi boiler then it's a function of how much heat the boiler can put into the water, and how cold your incoming mains water is. A combi gives priority to HW, so while showering it temporarily stops feeding the space heating.
  25. ProDave
    All my pallets got turned into a shed. I did previously have a scaffold staircase set up, I had to take that down as it was in the way for a few jobs, but it could go back up again, but SWMBO did not like climbing that either, it was a small number of very big steps.
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