ProDave

XP is quite happy with NTFS which should comfortably do 128GB

From a building regs point of view you only need an air in provision for a stove of 5KW or more. For use with mvhr I would still get one that has ducted air in straight to the stove so it does not draw air from the room.

I assume by rear you mean the master bedroom that is at the bottom in the floor layout plans? Is No 37 an ordinary bungallow or does it have dormers or windows in it's roof The issue no doubt will be one of overlooking No 37. If you try for instance putting in a dormer in the master bedroom I feel that would be rejected because it would overlook No 37 I would at least try for a window in the end wall of the master bedroom. At the moment you just have that little window in the 45 degree bit. There is certainly room to get a reasonable window in the rear where there is currently a blank wall. Why has it been proposed like that? I think you need to read the full planning file to see if there was an objection from the house behind that stopped there being a proper window in that end wall.

Have you done a SAP assesment or otherwise calculated the maximum heap input requirement? That is quite crucial to the outcome. What size ASHP did you have specified that was going to cost £11.5K? (mine cost just under £500 and I will be self installing it) Are you SURE mains gas will arrive and what will the connection cost be? I am not a fan of LPG for heating Your 2 options are a bulk tank, or a bank of 47Kg cylinders on a changeover regulator. The bulk tank will have an install cost, and a removal cost, check also you are not tied into a long contract. Asking them what the cost of removal will be "should you wish to change fuel" may ring alarm bells with the supplier. A bank of 47Kg cylinders is probably the short term solution, but the gas is more expensive. The only install cost is a changeover regulator and set of hoses, you can usually blag free cylinder hire as they know you will be a regular user (at least for 2 years) Make sure you keep the mains gas jets for the boiler safe for the mains conversion later. Re the PV, that dictates a hot water tank really (so not a combi boiler), but if having a stove with a back boiler as well you will be having a hot water tank (probably a thermal store) in any case.

Ridge beam hung roof will solve all your woes.

Try the "minimise memory usage" button on that page. FWIW my old version of pale moon is using about 600K of memory, has been on all day with 12 tabs open.

^^^ Yes that is the point. If you are trying to make the house truly air tight, hen there is a LOT of work sealing all that insulation and sealing around every timber that makes up the trusses.

You should, with the correct insulation over the rafters, be able to make this a warm roof. BUT the complication you will have is all the bits of the truss sticking out into the roof space will make it very hard to seal and make the roof structure air tight. Expect to use a lot of air tightness tape sealing around every bit of the trusses structure.

Are self builders "normal" of curse not. In a conversation I was having yesterday, the phrase "self builder anoraks" popped into the conversation (not by me)

I think the issue here is not so much the soil type, but the water table is very high, much like we have here at times. I bet of you dug a hole just now it would fill with water almost up to ground level. If you do create a drainage channel system it needs somewhere to drain to. Perhaps an open trench / ditch along the front of the plot? (we have a burn through our garden so have somewhere for water to drain to)

I solved the Firefox / memory / slow issue by (on your suggestion) using Pale Moon instead.

I am not sure a gas combi can do this. A lot (most?) oil combi's maintain a small store of hot water that is ready to be drawn instantly. I think they do this as the start up time of an oil burner would otherwise make them suggish. This I guess is what could allows a re circulation system to work.

Not planning to. Go on convince me? I have a lot of short runs from the airing cupboard to the bathrooms, planning that in all copper. 2 longer runs to kitchen, thinking of using some left over 16 * 2 pex al pex UFH pipe for that. Later on will be the longer runs from ASHP to buffer tank, HW tank and UFH manifolds. I really like copper (apart from the cost) I will take some convincing that plastic will be reliable enough.

Screwy' only deliver bundles of 10 and they don't do a bundle of 10 lengths of 22mm but they do seem the cheapest I have tried so far. I thought someone might know another on line supplier? I can't be bothered to even try and work out how much I need so I will start with 10 lengths of each.

Thats the thing. Now Fred Drift. Where's the cheapest place for copper pipe 15 and 22mm?

Thanks. But on the basis what I have seem to fit a 15mm compression fitting are they not 1/2" rather than 3/4? P.S don't see bent ones at Screwy's.

Only those north of the border know what Dwangs are. To everyone else they are noggins. (even in Wales)

Floor mounted bath tap. Terminates in the ends of two flexi tails emerging through the floor. What fitting to join these to copper pipe. They are a perfect fit onto a straight or elbow 15mm compression fitting but I am sure I have read that is wrong as it would only present a narrow edge to the rubber washer in the flexi fittings. Preferably a right angle fitting, flexi in, an copper out at right angles. Sorry about lousy photograph.

Our builders used the same method to endure the air tight membrane went around the ends of the joists, though they did not know it as a "Tony tray"

I doubt it I wired a house just over a year ago, easily twice the size of mine. The Hot water tank was in the plant room at the opposite corner of the house to the kitchen. There must have been 20 metres or probably more for the hot water to get from the tank to the kitchen tap. This was a plumbers house by the way.

I thought a "householder" planning application was for things like extensions or alterations to a house. I know this is what we did when extending our former house many years ago now. A new house is outside the scope of that.

I don't see why they need to delay their build just so they can move the wall 300mm? Or do you think that change would force it to go through planning again? It would be a barmy solution of you both stepped your walls in and left an unreachable, unmaintainable gap between them.

I was going to use it. It's basically wood fibre beads. Then I worked out I could get the same U value for half the cost using Frametherm 35

Well I have ordered the Hudson Reid ones today. Once again thanks to the collective wisdom on the forum.

When the utility companies quoted for a new supply., they each provided a map showing where their services were, so something like that should show you.