ProDave

I have a pair from Rationel. Was not difficult, what is your problem?

4mm cable is 37A in free air. In a conduit in a wall (closest regs have to buried in a floor) is method B where it drops to 32A. It it's an insulated wall (floor) then it's method A and drops to 26A At 240V (which lets be honest most supplies are, 230V being a fictitious number) your hob will be a max of 32A The only problem might be if you put 4 large pans of water on to boil all at the same time, Otherwise diversity will take care of it.

What's the make and model of the hob? so we can look at the instructions.

Is it just the bit of conduit in the wall you are worried about? If you have access to the top and bottom of the conduit then 6mm singles should fit and connect to a t&e above that for the run back to the consumer unit.

SACK the electrician. Any electrician that puts in a 4mm for a hob lacks experience, very minimum 6mm, 10mm for some. In fact 4mm is such an odd cable size I don't normally use it, there are very few reasons to use it rather than 6mm. Read the manual. Some hobs have the ability to limit maximum power by a sequence of button presses when first powered.

For some reason I read that as a magazine dispenser by the loo.

You are missing the whole point of a separate valve. Put it there and when you turn it on your arm gets drenched in stone cold water before the hot reaches the shower. You want the controls on a different wall so you can turn it on, dry, and not get wet until it is warm water flowing Don't forget to drill a BIG hole for the thermostatic mixer, so big the plate only just covers it And for access to the filters I am going to have to cut between the big hole and the smaller holes with the multi tool

Fadebec too expensive and too tall. Joule too expensive and the crafty so and so's don't even include the installation kit which is extra. It's going to be a Telford, which apart from anything else seems to be the shortest 300L cylinder I have found and the cheapest (though I still think it is a LOT of money for what it is)

Just wanting to make sure it's not going to try and extract heat faster than my low powered heat pump can deliver and cause some issue. I want to run it by the technical help at Telford first.

Interesting. When we ordered ours a few years ago the only options were painted inside.

@jack As someone with a near identical setup. If you set the HP hot water temperature to (say for example) 50 degrees. How hot will the water in the tank actually get? I suspect the issue is as you get close to the HP temperature the rise in temp of the HW becomes very slow and that might be where the bigger coil wins in getting the HW those last few degrees?

Okay, technical question. What are the advantages AND disadvantages of the larger heat input coil? It is all about heat transfer and heat up times. Bigger coil = faster heat up time? BUT only if the heat pump can keep up with what the input coil can handle. My heat pump is only 5KW It's a low energy house with the max heating demand at -10 outside and 20 inside a little over 2KW so we only need a small heat pump. So on the face of it the 3.3m2 coil might be the right one. I am questioning if there is any merit in the larger one if the limiting factor may end up being the power of the heat pump? And does the low power heat pump even mean the much cheaper standard input coil might be okay? I can't seem to find any technical info on the "power" ratings of the various coils, and Telford have shut up shop early being a Friday so I can't speak to them until Monday. Not much from other suppliers. Jewson want £926 for the Telford, and TP have offered a Gedhill for £900

You seem to be prepared to give up the 20% VAT saving on the garage, because you can't afford it up front. This seems to be a classic case of borrow the money for the garage? as long as the interest does not exceed a total of 20% you are onto a winner. How long would this shortfall be and how much? thinking 0% credit card (usually about 3% fee) and roll it over to another if you have to.

Our building warrant took a few months to finalise. There was some rework of drawings needed and some re sumbission. It seemed every month BC sen a list of outstanding points waiting to be addresses. An the whole they are a lot more approachable than planning and much more flexible to work with you to get everything agreed. And there were no extra charges for alterations during the process.

indirect+solar seem to have a similar premium. Off to phone TP and Jewson for a laugh. TP don't do Telford so it will be interesting to see what they quote

Just glue and screw a wooden back board to the wall. I would ditch the pocket idea. You just know it's going to leak which means you have to tank the pocket before you tile it.

So standard tank 2.3m2 and heat pump tank 3m2 input coil. I don't see the significance ot tapping heights. All I want is cold water in at the bottom and hot water out at the top. No hot water return or anything fancy. Would the performance with a heat pump really be that much worse with a standard input coil? If so in what way? slower heat up time? or hot water would not reach heat pump temperature meaning heat pump has to run at a higher temp, or more immersion boost needed to get from heat pump temp to final temp? I would expect there to be a difference in price, but not almost 50% extra for the heat pump version. @Nickfromwales please do make that phone call and let me know what you find out.

The Telford cylinder does not use a heat exchange. I only want 1 heat input coil but for a heat pump they specify a larger area input coil, presumably to get better conduction so the cylinder temperature will get close to the input temperature, but it seems to be adding £250 to the cost which seems rather a lot. I have had a reply from my tub, they are "checking" if this cylinder really fits the description given. So Telford claim the HP version of the cylinder has a 3m2 input coil, What I can't find anywhere is the surface area of the standard input coil. i.e. how much difference does it make?

Trying to source my hot water tank. Usual parameter - cheapest possible. Requirements Unvented 300L capacity, separate expansion vessel (not built in due to limited height) Input coil suitable for a heat pump. 1 immersion heater In addition to the standard tank thermostat I need a separate thermostat pocket as the heat pump has it's own sensor. Cylinders 2 go are quoting £898 inc VAT and delivery I am told the Telford part number is TSMI300/HP When I search for that, this comes up https://www.mytub.co.uk/tempest-unvented-cylinder-indirect-300l-tsmi300-product-740532 Now that does not have the /hp on the end of the part number, but it talks about "Our standard Heat Pump coil has a surface area of 3.3m2, as a result the smallest tank we can offer is a 200litre. Smaller capacity cylinders are available where a lower surface area coil can be used." So it seems to imply it is the heat pump version. What does the panel think? Assuming that is a "mistake" it seems there is a premium of about £250 extra for having the heat pump input coil, that sounds rather a lot.

Okay so it's English building regs and whatever the local vernacular is which may well mean 2 storey is okay.

Our first house was built (to a bare shell) on a fixed price contract. Every time there was a small change the builder sent a "notice of variation" immediately so we knew the extra costs coming. This time round I entered an open ended contract with the builder. We were having trouble selling the old house, so my instructions were basically "carry on until I say stop" and that point happened when the frame was built and the roof was on (but not tiled) and I have carried on alone since then except for rendering and plastering. I did get the same builders to supply and fit the windows later on. We parted on good terms with them fully understanding it was simply a matter of no money in the pot to pay them for any more work.

In my case I did the planning drawings, then paid an architectural engineer and a SE to detail the design, The exorbitant architect fees I referred to was for the previous house, where the two architects wanted to base their fees on a high percentage of the estimated build cost one quoted £25K the other £30K and neither would negotiate. To make matters worse both estimates of the build cost were roughly twice what it actually cost. Had they offered a reasonable fee as in this example I would have used them,. In the end in that case I paid £2K to the timber frame company for all the drawings.

You first do a design SAP for building control approval. At the end that is updated with an "as built" SAP for BC sign off to take account of any changes that might have happened. If I had been quoted those sorts of figures from an architect, I would have bitten their hand off. Some think I don't like architects, that is not true. What I dislike is when I last tried, they wanted to charge me roughly 6 times what you have been quoted for the same scope of work, and they would not even negotiate the fees a little bit, let alone bring them down to the reasonable fee you have been quoted.

When I did the sums based on the design SAP my RHI payment would total £2030 over 7 years. It would actually be lower than that if it was based on the as built SAP as that will be better due to an error on the design SAP that had my roof insulation wrong so a poorer U value for the roof. I concluded it is not worth the bother of claiming the RHI. I am DIY fitting my self sourced heat pump. To get an MCS installer to supply and fit one would add more cost than I would be able to claim. You say you would get £8400 but you would like to make your house worse so you can claim £10,500 You know that would leave you with a poor house with a high running cost long after the 7 year RHI payments have ended? Why would you want to do that?

That reminds me of the argument my BIL had many years ago. He drove into his local tip and proceeded to drag the 1 ton builders bag of garden waste out of the back of his pick up truck and start emptying it into the skip. At this point the manager came storming over saying he can't tip that here. The argument hinged on the sign saying "garden waste, 1 car, 1 bag" and my BIL:'s insistence that he indeed only had 1 bag. The argument ended when my BIL said I can either empty the contents into the skip, or I will just drive off and leave it on the ground (it was out of the truck by this time) I don't think they hand ANPR cameras then but I suspect he was unwelcome after that. It is absurd that they make it difficult for people to dispose of their waste responsibly. And then they wonder why there is so much fly tipping that will cost them more to clean up than if they just let people take it to the tip. It annoys me as it's my council tax money they are wasting with policies like that. It also makes me feel even more, the "bottom of a wheelie bin" is a damned good place for all sorts of stuff to go.