ProDave

Do you not have a fireproofing issue, particularly with windows if <1M from a boundary? Is there no way you could negotiate the boundary to be just over 1M from your wall?

I'm confused. That Denso link talks about air to water, but then talks about air as the distribution medium, so surely it's air to air? Very confusing website.

All pre made trusses are engineered. It's just that the truss company doe the sums, makes them to size and certifies them. They provide a roof plan of how to assemble them. Providing you stick to that plan, no other engineering input is normally needed.

You need attic trusses. Common up here for part room in roof houses. It also gives you an uncluttered loft space. For hipped roofs they make a set where the end trusses are shaped to the hip, or that but can be cut on site.

My house has a cut roof and probably pretty much any house with a ridge beam and vaulted ceilings.

Unless you are using Windoze 10. SWMBO's laptop chooses what bluetooth devices to see and not to see, and even when to see them. Just as it sometimes decides to tell her the printer is off line. The Android phones never have a problem with bluetooth.

I suspect the blue tooth bit is to connect it's own speakers to itself to avoid pesky wires and not for connecting your phone. Re the power supply is there anything written next to the power socket. I am awaiting delivery from China of a blue tooth adaptor for the hifi. I eagerly await what my £1.28 may have bought me.

If you want a more open plan feel, open up the present snug to the kitchen and hall as a kitchen / dining / family room, and keep the room to the left as an enclosed quiet snug.

I personally detest stairs going up from a living room. It probably stems from my first house being like this and it was a devil to keep the living room warm with a constant stream of cold air flowing down the stairs. It was always warm on the landing. Perhaps that would not be an issue with a modern well insulated house? You gain more space but it is still a corridor and one less wall to put things against or on.

Ditch the cat slide dormers. I think they look horrible, and create a very difficult edge detail to both get right initially, and then to maintain. Put proper little gable end dormers instead, look much nicer.

That just sounds like a rite of passage to me. Like the first time you use a chain saw. Every time AFTER the first time, you make sure your trousers are outside your boots.

I will be using the through wall kit as well. I have built a bit of flat 100mm ducting recessed partly into the wall that terminates in the wall with a flat to round adaptor. I will have to make my own 100 to 80mm reducing plug for that. My logic was it was better to do this and get (any) stone behind it drilled, than trying to get a hole drilled in the hearth slab, then lifting that down over the pipe. Still not decided whether to use a big slab of stone, or tiles. Tiles will no doubt be way way cheaper.

Work on a 35W GU10 for each and you won't go far wrong. Unless it is a massive house or totally overboard on the number of downlights you wont go far wrong.

I chose the Conder as being one of a number of very similar treatment plants that worked on the air blower principle. I wanted to avoid having moving mechanical parts. I liked it's conical shape and the anchor ring around the bottom making it one of the easiest to anchor down (with a few tons of concrete) in ground that is prone to a high water table. The Clearwater looks a very similar idea so I am sure you will be fine with that.

Another question for @Crofter or anyone else that has used the Burly Springdale stove with the ducted air intake. I am worrying about the height to set the air intake. It says 140mm above the floor. But then you have to add the as yet unknown thickness of the superimposed hearth. Looking at the instructions, there seems to be a 40mm diameter spigot on the back of the plenum box and they supply an 80mm diameter galvanised air intake tube. That raises 2 issues, one good, one bad. The good issue being an 80mm tube fitting over a 40mm spigot will have a lot of wriggle room so my height does not need to be so precise. The bad issue is how do they seal an 80mm pipe onto a 40mm spigot?

Looking very good indeed. Bet you are well pleased.

Yep we did ours. Well done for getting a discharge permit from SEPA that took us a few months. What treatment plant have you chosen? This is our Conder being lowered into it's hole in the ground The pipework is simpe. We were required to provide a partial soakaway before the discharge gets to the burn which does seem to work well.

I have just uploaded a lot of pictures of "the cupboard" to my blog. You can find it here http://www.willowburn.net/ Look for the entry The "electrical" cupboard

For me, part of the reason for lots of car5 cables is for the "unknown unknowns" Let me explain that. I keep all my AV stuff in a central cupboard and run long hdmi cables to the tv's so you can have an uncluttered wall hung tv with no "boxes" they live out of sight in the cupboard. BUT how long will hdmi be the standard? and what will come next? e.g the last house was built pre hdmi so used component high definition video YPbPr instead. So a couple of spare cat 5's are there so that when the next AV standard comes along, I hope they will make the usual (whatever they call it) video to cat5 cable converters to go on both ends. I am just kitting out my AV cupboard at the moment to I will post some pictures when it's done.

Insulation level? I am guessing not good as you need a cold surface for moisture to condense and start mould. Having been in the caravan for over a year and through a cold winter, I can assure you you need a LOT of ventilation to keep condensation at bay. A blast of the dehumidifier from time to time helps dry things out.

It's saying then when it is -10 outside and you want to keep it at +20 inside, then you need a continuous 5.2Kw of heat going into the house. So if you maintain that temperature all day and night, it will use 124.8Kwh of energy per day. To put this into perspective, ny own house has a worst case of 2.2KW in the same situation, so 52.8KWh per day, but that will be provided by a heat pump with a COP of at least 3, so will use 17.6KWh of electricity

I can't put my finger on it, but I am sure there is a little something not "right" there.

I am purring cables to every room but not necessarily terminating them just now. They will get connected when a use for them arises.

Contact Open Reach. They should free issue you with the GREY duct you need for telephone. If the services pass that close to the back of the house, forget any notion of running them across your site before the foundations are in. Just get them up to your site boundary for now and put them across the back of the house once the foundations are in.

And I chose Rationel partly because of the clean uncomplicated profile compared to some other makes. Have you looked at Nordan?