ProDave

What type of pipe for all the plumbing runs?

Just standard mdpe tee connections and then into 3 of my own boundary boxes.

What is this pelmet you speak of? My garage is attached. My ceiling and all the walls are clad in 2 layers of fireline plasterboard. But I do not have this pelmet and do not understand what it is trying to achieve. The crucial thing I always understood was the joints in the first layer of fireline must be staggered from the joints in the second layer.

Can I ask why they insulated the mvhr ducts? You normally only do that if they pass through a cold zone.

The trouble with a single temperature is it will be a high temperature for DHW, so will be likely too hot for UFH and the heat pump will not run anywhere near as eficcient as it would running at a lower temperature for heating.

WF100 or RG6 These things come in many guises, so the best ones are the ones that have solid copper inner core, and copper foil and copper braid. ~Some of the cheaper ones have an aluminium foil and copper plated inner core.

I was trying to find a copy of the manual to have a look at. The exact model number would help to search to see if it is available on line. Without seeing the manual I can't add much to whether there may be different options. It is somewhat of a limitation if there is indeed only one set temperature available.

This one? http://dreamheatpumps.co.uk/5kw_heat_pump_HOME.html Not much information on their website. No mention of an inverter drive so it is probably very basic and all or nothing? No downloads to manuals or any useful technical specification.

What make and model is it?

I slotted "planks" (pallet wood) through the joists to support the accoustic insulation. The thinking being if I ever needed to fish a new cable through I would stand more chance with a small gap between the PB and the insulation

Mine is an LG It only ever runs in heating mode OR hot water mode, and each has it's own temperature set independantly, it never runs HW and heating at the same time. For DHW mine has a temperature probe built into the tank and it heats the tank until the desired temperature is reached. I have that temperature set to 47 degrees. To achieve that I have the DHW "water leaving" temperature set to 55 degrees. In heating mode it heats the UFH directly and I have the water leaving temperature set to 37 degrees.

As soon as I saw the picture of it, I thought that round hole with 2 flats to engage on the drive shaft was a weakness. It will "round" over time and the hot one will probably last the shortest time. Second hand pumps will be unknown and their impellers may be on their last legs. These are clearly getting harder to source so personally I would go and buy the 2 that bloke on ebay has.

In what wad is the impeller broken? I would be inclined to grab the ebay one while you can if everywhere else is saying discontinued.

Stage 1 of mount done. Tanalised fence posts and decking joists. The Unistrut will span front to back over the decking joist to mount the panels on. Then I will asses how rigid the structure is and what diagonal bracing needs to be added. The eaves are over long at the moment and will be cut when the panels are on and I know where they really come to. The space underneath will eventually be boarded in to become a shed with the top part up the bank just having a rough platform for limited storage, and the lower part looks an ideal candidate to become the bike shed. We were planning to start mounting the panels this week as SWMBO has some time off work so could help manhandle them, but that plan looks thwarted as the Unistrut has not arrived yet.

That is looking very nice indeed. And glad you have the heating sorted out.

I thought it was "Beauty is in the eye of the Beer Holder"

The plywood will need a fire retardent coating. That is probably what he means.

And how long will it stay that nice? Only "complaint" is you could have chased the tv wires into the wall.

I looked at these. Basically they claim the RHI on your behalf so you won't get that if you were eligible so that is another way it is being paid for. So for 7 years they get £25 per month from you plus whatever RHI payment it would be eligible for.

What you are missing is you need different floors for different parts of the house. We have oak in the living rooms, but strictly no outdoor footwear. The entrance hall and utility will be tiled, probably in slate, that we had in the last house and that was bomb proof even with wellies etc. Just make sure you change to your slippers before crossing over to the nice floor. And remember the felt pads on ALL your furniture.

I guess if paying up front to an unknown company, a search of companies house would not hurt. I have been lucky that all the firms I have used, I have known in various ways beforehand. I guess being loosely in the building trade helps.

Yes it does seem very variable. Initially they said no to the discharge and suggested a filter mound which is what we went through planning with. BC rejected the filter mound and a Puraflow system. Only then did SEPA say yes to the discharge. We proposed using the Conder plant, and our discharge permit was written to match the BOD specification of the Conder.

And while you are at it, unhide "hidden" and System files.

That is one hell of a neat hole that. Well done.

As I have said before, SEPA will only allow discharge to a burn as a last resort. It was only after building control had rejected 2 proposals that SEPA finally granted us permission to discharge to the burn.