ProDave

Do you really want to replace it with a section of wall? or would a fence do? You could test the water by putting up a couple of fence panels to enclose that bit and still leave the wall in place, and wait a few weeks to see if anyone says anything? If they don't then the wall could "fall down"

I suspect someone was fiddling the system. I tried and tried to get an EPC on the plot with a static caravan but could not. Nor could I get an exemption letter that anyone would accept.

Get him to do the test, then go through with you what needs to be done. Overload of conductors, perhaps one of the MCB;s is the wrong size? who know until he tells you more. Insulation resistance is a common one, could be anything from a bit of damp somewhere to a failed cable. That may take some finding before he can tell you exactly what. If you don't get it fixed Mr grumpy buyer will take you to the cleaners.

Not a lot. A 50 year old 15th edition install if done properly would probably only need a new CU and the earth bonding upgrading. You already know the earth bonding is acceptable so I would be really surprised if there if the worst case is worse than just a new CU. What about bathroom light? If you have a dangly pendant light fitting then he will probably insist that is upgraded to a proper bathroom light fitting but that is pretty trivial cost. Just get the EICR done so you can stop worrying and move forward.

Oh, well there should have been in 2000. Might have to factor in a consumer unit upgrade then and a cost of probably £400. I would still much rather do that than present an unsatisfactory EICR and have the buyer from hell demand £3000 off for a rewire. If you get any work done and present a satisfactory EICR he has nothing to argue with.

Only if your electrician is being an aris. Something wired in 2000, providing it was done correctly then, should have nothing more than C3's like no RCD on the lighting circuit. Anyone who gives a C2 for that for instance is not fit to be practicing but just touting for unecessary work He has already checked things like the bonding and agreed they are not C1 or C2 so don't over worry about it.

That's why sailors take the sails off a boat in the winter.

So when you get the one done that you have you specifically asked him only to check the recent work? I would be VERY wary of an electrician that codes a plastic consumer unit. Changes to the wiring regs are not retrospective. A plastic CU was the norm when the house was rewired as was a "16th edition" split load consumer unit with only an RCD on one half for the sockets. Previously there used to be a C4 clasification "compliant with an earlier edition of the regs" It was a very bad move removing that. If you trust the electrician to be fair get him to do the whole lot. If he does find any C1 or C2's in all probability it will be a lot less hastle if you just get him to fix them so you can present a "satisfactory" EICR otherwise they will probably ask for unreasonable amounts off the price to cover it.

It was probably also part of the developers planting scheme. you would have been better leaving the overgrown bush in place until after you have planning to move the wall.

The basic rules are up to 16A (which equates to 3.68KW) you have a right to fit it, and then notify the DNO afterwards that you have done this. 2 of us on here have just done this, and apart from them being a bit strict on paperwork had no real problems. If you go over 16A then you need permission FIRST before you connect it. It might be worth asking your DNO if they will allow a larger system and will there be a charge for any network upgrades to do so. If the answer is yes and there are no charges, then that is great. The alternative is fit more panels but still use a G83/2 compliant inverter, which will limit the output to 16A. What are the ratings of each panel you are proposing? I am guessing about 230W per panel, if so fitting 19 of them would give a total of 4370W Which would probably still be okay an a 16#A inverter.

Okay seeing that again. I would put a very high up shelf, above the tv for the freesat box. Get an electrician to move the sockets a little further up the wall so they are behind the tv and hidden. At the same time hide the cable for the sub woofer in the wall. When you mount the tv on the new bracket, put it a little to the left so it is not overhanging the window and so there is room to put the speakers either side of the tv, not below the tv.

One thing I would consider is a house design that is cheap to build as a small house but designed so it is easy to enlarge as funds allow. e.g one thing that is common here is build a bungalow, but make the roof using attic trusses already specified as a structural element to take a floor loading. then it is very much easier and cheaper later on to add the upper floor.

I think the family bathroom is too small. I would enlarge it by incorporating all or part of the 2 cupboards off the landing. I would be wanting a bath and a shower in there. Kitchen may need a bit of a re think. Hob in the "pantry"? Re things like the mvhr. If you want to keep with flat roofs, I would raise the height of the garage a little and hang the mvhr unit from the ceiling of the garage close to the house wall where it will be easy to access for servicing and any noise is kept out of the house. Likewise I would probably put the gas boiler in the garage. Again easy access for servicing but keeps clutter and noise out of the house. Furthering this theme, you will need a manifold for the under floor heating system downstairs. No immediately obvious place to put it. Under the stairs perhaps if that is going to be closed in as a cupboard but not if you want to keep that open. In that case I would seriously consider taking all the UFH pipes through to the garage and have the UFH manifold in there as well. Solar PV is only worthwhile if you can get it installed cheap enough now there is no more FIT. It only becomes viable if you can self use most of what you generate. Are you planning a combi boiler or a system boiler and a hot water tank? If having a HW tank the best place for that would be one of the landing cupboards as that puts it pretty close to most points of use.

Mine is an "outside" wall, well backing onto the attached garage at least. Yes I know by inserting that pocket into the wall I have very slightly compromised the insulation a little there, but I did seal all the joints in the box that makes up the pocket and taped it to the air tight membrane so it should not have compromosed air tightness. Yes @Hecateh a shelf under your tv should house the speakers etc and tidy things up. The swiveling bracket you have will stick out a bit more than a flat one so hopefully you can get it so the shelf sticks out no further than the tv when it is "flat" If you have a battened then plasterboarded wall, you should be able to thread the cable for the sub woofer down the gap between the actual wall and the plasterboard.

PP to move my fence took about 8 weeks, done on a homeowner application. it was passed without question. It was slightly more complicated as it also included PP for the shed that I had already built, and included for 4 adjoining neighbours to all move our fence together

I suspect that will need planning permission. In my very first house there was a 6ft fence at the end of my garden bordering a road, except there was first a 5ft strip of land before the footpath, which was shown as mine on the deeds. I had to get planning permission to move that fence as it bordered the highway and anything over 1 metre tall adjoining the highway needs PP. I wonder why it was built like that? I can clearly see why you want to move it.

I refer you to what I did. There is a LOT to properly hanging a tv on the wall if it is more than "just" a television: This included a pocket built into the wall for the surround sound box, lots of hidden cabling and a little shelf

1G = 1 gang plate, the square ones used for a light switch or a single socket. 2G = 2 gang plate, the rectangular ones used for a double socket If you buy modular or "grid" plates, typically you can get 2 modules in a 1G plate and 4 modules in a 2G plate. You can get all sorts of modules including switches and a huge variety of coax, AV and networks sockets, as well as blank modules to drill and fit your own sockets into. Shotgun coax is so called because the 2 cores side by side resemble the 2 barrels of a shotgun.

You need to be clear what you want. Shotgun coax is 2 coax cables so that says to me 2 satellite freeds or a satellite and a terrestrial aerial. That plus an ethernet might be a tall order in a 1G olate.

That is one clever badger.

But digital (freeview) tv's use the same cable so they are not redundant. KEEP

You need to know the heat loss of your house. Either from your SAP assesment, or using for example the spreadsheed that @JSHarris has produced. And how you are heating it (ufh or radiators) This will tell you the size of unit needed. As to make, there are a vairiery of makes that people have experience with, I am using an LG for instance.

I was glad there were 3 of us when we fitted the 15mm fireline plasterboard ceiling to the garage.

As well as pheasants, we get Red Legged Partridges here that run around in large flocks and are equally daft and equally reluctant to fly.

Put it very slightly lower and it can be dual purpose.