ProDave

It does not pose a problem. Partly because we are on a sloping site so where the ramp has to end is higher than other outside areas. I have a plan and a design of the ramp, I just need to get around to building it.

Scottish regs specifically exclude timber ramps that can later be removed.

Best of luck if that will do it. It would not in Scotland.

If you are craning a mobile home, you will need a lifting frame with spreader bars so the slings don't crush the caravan. You will have to talk to crane hire companies. You will want a "contract lift" unless you know a qualified banksman and slinger to do the technical stuff for you. (we regularly hire a crane on a "crane hire" basis for boat lifts, but the harbour has it's own slings and trained slingers and banksmen) As to siting the caravan. That depends on where on the plot you want it. If the crane can handle the weight at the required reach, then it could be lifted directly to it's final position in one go. But if where you want it is too far away that may dictate a very large crane, and then ground conditions for the crane to operate on become an issue and you may have to get a ground survey done first. If you can only lift it immediately over the wall and then need to move it, you really need a vehicle inside the walled garden, which poses the same problem. Mobile homes have very small wheels that pose a very high ground load, and unless the ground is very firm and dry, it will bog down easily. To move it by hand, even with a lot of hands, would still need very level firm ground. As above a sectional timber cabin might be a better option in this case.

So you are paying £45 for that? I am paying BT £39 per month for landline, broadband AND the SIM in my daughters mobile phone (which is a bit more that the very cheap SIM I have in my own phone as she eats "data" like it is going out of fashion)

Just a performance update. It has been nearly 2 weeks since the dump controller went live. In that time the PV has generated 74KWh. 18KWh of that has been sent to the immersion heater, with only 1.99KWh being exported. The rest self used on house stuff. I can probably improve on that 1.99 KWh that has "escaped" in due course with a little calibration tweak.

If the road terminates at your wall, can you not take a section of the wall down to make an entrance? It would seem to solve all the problems?

If the garage is part of the planning permission then digging and pouring the footings for the garage should lock in the permission. I am not sure if this will change the consideration of the new application, just ensure that the old one cannot time out.

Hop up's are used in conventional timber frame construction to allow the initial scaffold working platform to come close to the timber frame. Then later when the blockwork outer skin is built, the hop up's are removed to create the "gap" to build the blockwork.

They are called "hop up's" Available as 1 or 2 board wide.

Since you are in Scotland, I would first try and buy it and get change of use to Garden to extend your parents garden. Then, if your local plan is anything like ours, it would be almost a given that you would get planning permission to build on "garden ground"

There is a very slight twist to this ongoing saga. Today I had occasion to fill in a form on the Highland Council's website (to report a road defect) When It got to the "your address" bit there was a box for postcode and then select your address. Entered my postcode and our new address appears on the pull down list. This is proof beyond doubt that the new address IS on the council's address database. Went and checked though and it is still not on the PAF at Royal Mail.

You can submit a planning application on land that you do not own, but you have to serve notice on the owner saying you have done so. We did this when buying our plot as we wanted to be sure we would get planning before buying it. If you are getting planning first, expect the owner to want building plot price for the land. The alternative is try and buy it as it is with no planning for less and take the gamble, but then the owner may put an uplift clause on it anyway. You really need to speak to the owner first or it all could be a waste of time.

The overlap detail on the NuLock looks hardly any difference to the overlap detail of the Marley Edgemere tiles that I used.

I doubt they are any more space efficient than any other interlocking tile, their USP is the way the tiles attach to the roof on that rail system.

In such a situation I moved mine over. As long as the pads of wood it is stood on are big enough, go along each foot in turn giving it a clout with the sledge hammer and work your way backwards and forwards along the length of the run, and in no time it has all walked over 6" Best remove everything from up top and wear a hard hat

So he is totally phasing out fossil fuel from our electricity grid by then is he? Until that happens, my ASHP cannot claim to be 100% "renewable"

Sticky stuff remover is your friend if you can find any, not seen it on sale for some time and we use what we have left only for essential tasks.

Just to show how things are so skewed by land prices. I paid £50K for my plot. I wish I could have built a house for £50K I also agree that there is almost no profit in building at the present time, in spite of cries of houses being over priced.

Very windy and very wet here, but no damage and no UFO's. Ground mounted solar / shed has passed it's first storm test. Re Landy's, When I finally get my garage clear of building stuff so I can get it in, I want to take the top off completely and run it al fresco for a summer. Re slots, a big part of sail performance is the slot created where the genoa overlaps the main sail.

I imagine removable pins only really work on plain hinges. Imagine trying to line up all the ball races to insert the pin?

I would say without a doubt you have high ground water. How have you ensured the air bricks to the existing suspended floor are still ventilated?

Joiner is old school, he will be using a chisel. I have ordered the screwfix ones. Some strange pricing, they are cheaper per hinge as a pack of 3 than a pack of 2, but if I bought as packs of 3 I would not have enough packs to get to the price break. So order more packs of 2, they start off more per hinge, but I reach the price break ending up less per hinge.

At least we have some certainty HOW and WHEN this bathroom will end, unlike the "other subject" Okay the When is a little harder to pin down, but I think it might end before that we shall not speak of on here.

Why not, it still has the SAME lock barrel on the outside, you are only swapping the inside one.