ProDave

Plasterboarding is not really a single person job. Even getting a sheet up onto the lifter at it's lowest height is a chore for one. It all becomes easy peasy with 2. Me and SWMBO sheeted out entire house with an OSB layer and then the PB layer, including the vaulted ceilings upstairs. All without a PB lifter (though we did borrow one to do the downstairs ceilings. For the vaulted ceilings, it is all a matter of technique. Screw a temporary batten at the top of the wall (bottom of ceiling) to support the bottom edge of the lower board, Then you rest the bottom edge of the board on that and you only have to support the top edge until you get a few screws in, Then move your temporary batten so it overlaps the top edge of the fixed board creating a pocket to slot the bottom of the next board into. Repeat until you get to the top. The biggest problem I found with the PB lifter is the damned thing then gets in the way for putting the screws in.

If it's a bedroom you will have very little standing room unless you incorporate a large dormer windows(s)

So here they are mounted on the shed. The east facing panel basking in the morning sunshine And the west facing panel, at this time of the morning still in complete shade Now all I need is for the cheap Chinese inverter to arrive.

What are you trying to achieve with the "loft"? Another floor of habitable space? Or just a storage area that you can stand up in? If you can't raise the ridge height, can you lower the ground floor level?

One point that has not been mentioned. To have more than 3.68KW of solar PV (or any other microgeneration) requires prior approval from your DNO who may or may not charge you for network upgrades or may just refuse it. Before you commit to buying a 10KW system, seek permission from the DNO so you know you will be allowed to connect it. In an area prone to power cuts, I would not rely 100% on electricity and trying to provide your own in a power cut. For instance we have a gas hob powered by a pair of 47Kg propane cylinders that will boil a kettle with no power to the house. And (dare I mention it) a small wood burning stove that will heat the whole house without power. Those and a couple of camping lights and we can survive, keep warm, and cook for however long the power cut lasts. Take that load of requirements away and your battery storage becomes more about self using stored power than removing reliance on the grid.

You can buy spacers, sometimes known as chairs, to stand the boards up above the rafters.

I think the panels in parallel idea should work. Today I mounted the panel on the east side of the shed. Now well into the afternoon with the sun shining on the W side of the shed and the E panel well and truly in the shade, it is still showing a Voc of 34 volts. So I don't think it's going to bother the active panel.

It was on Country File a few weeks back. The developer said is was to stop birds nesting otherwise that would delay the start of the development. they had applied for PP on an area of land zoned for housing development on the local plan so it was almost certain they would be granted permission. Their argument was if the PP was refused the netting would be removed. And if they were not allowed to net the hedge, it would have been removed prior to the planning application.

This is in line with the stupid requirements to mark on the plan "clothes drying area" and "bin storage space"

If the purpose of the berm is to stop the stream flooding the site when in spate, then building it out of a clay core sounds a good plan. I guess we sort of did that, we raised the ground level on the house side in the process of leveling the plot, but left the ground level on the other side of the burn at it's original lower level so can be a mini flood plane if the burn ever over tops.

Looking at the latest developer houses in town here, it certainly does not apply in Scotland.

I do quite a lot of mounting peoples tv's on walls. In this situation I would cut a strip of plasterboard out, use that gap created to slot some more battens in to fill the gap where the mount is to go. Screw the battens to the block (and probably sticks like sh*t them as well) Put the plasterboard back and fill the joints, screw the bracket on. It's the swivel function that causes your problem as it forces a bracket that has a small footprint on the wall. If you just want it flat perhaps with the ability to tilt, but not swivel, then it is a LOT easier with a wide bracket that is wide enough to span between studs and get at least one, preverably 2, fixings into the studs.

What is the model number of the existing faulty storage heater? LOT 20 is the latest EU directive to make electric heaters "more eficcient" Lets ignore for the moment a resistance heater is 100% eficcient. https://www.dimplex.co.uk/blog/get-speed-ecodesign-lot-20 https://www.lot20.co.uk/about I first encountered this recently when I fitted a small panel heater that the customer had bought. A week later she told me to come and remove the POS. It kept turning off saying "window open" (when it was not) and her bathroom was cold. My guess is it was programmed to expect a certain rate of rise of temperature, and in an old poorly insulated house it was not seeing that rate of rise so assumed the window was open. I "solved" that one by finding a new old stock pre LOT20 heater with just a timer and thermostat and she was delighted with it. Also another one of these new Dimplex panel heaters, I spent 15 minutes with the manual and I could not figure for the life of me how to set the times on the timer. There is an increasing gap between what the manufacturers produce and what the customer wants.

Are these individual rights? or a public right of way? VERY different things to deal with. A public ROW is almost impossible to extinguish and very hard even to move.

They are expensive NOW because of the EU and LOT20 the latest silly EU directive that forces lots of electronics into what used to be a simple electrical device. If this is to fix an existing broken one, just repair it. Unless the case is rusted and tatty, just about everything else can be fixed cheap and easy. In the case of a former rental I had one where the case had become too tatty. I bought a cheap second hand one in good condition from ebay. to get the person to post it, I said don't send the bricks, I used the bricks from the old one.

Hi, welcome and congratulations. If you list your conditions people can advise how to discharge them. Best to start a separate topic for that rather than the introduce yourself post.

The pheasants won't come back if you eat them.

We just dug all the topsoil and put that in a pile and all the subsoil (sandy clay) in another pile. Then spread the sandy clay first then the top soil then grass seed. Job done. Nothing left site, flat lawn at the end all done with my 3t digger.

As above a shared turning area will be used as overflow parking, that can be guaranteed. Do you NEED a turning space or is it just to appease the planners? i.e. we had to provide a turning space to comply with the planning requirements but we never use it (my Landrover is parked on it most of the time) I simply reverse from the road onto my parking space. If it is actually needed paint some double yellow lines all around it?

I don't think even near boiling water would cook the PCM The fluid in a ST panel starts circulating when the temperature at the panel exceeds the temperature in the tank. So it would not normally be massively hotter than the tank. Do the Sun Amp's have a spare "user" thermostat pocket? If not that pretty well rules out using them with ST

What else do you expect a manufacturer of GSHP's to say? They are hardly likely to endorse ASHP's are they? I went through the same decisions, initially I was sold on the idea of a GSHP. That was until I found out the cost of all the pipe you have to bury. Even though at the time I had my own digger so installation would have been "cheap" it was still a lot of work. Then there is a considerable amount if antifreeze to fill the ground collector pipes with which is supposed to be replaced every 10 years with replacement and disposal costs. And all that extra expense for what? A small improvement in the COP compared to an ASHP. Another deciding factor for me was noise. Generally a monoblock ASHP sits outside so the compressor and fan, the but that makes noise, is outside and completely inaudible from inside the house. But a GSHP (and a split ASHP) has the compressor inside the house, so you have to think very carefully where you are going to put it and if necessary how you will soundproof it. I have only wired one GSHP and the owner decided under a unit in the kitchen was a good place. It was like having an extra noisy fridge running all the time. Also I take issue with their statement that an ASHP must be used with a buffer tank. I can assure you mine has been working fine all winter without one.

That's a good plan as long as you have "started" there is no time limit. This is probably what I would have done all those years ago if I had been able to buy that £20K plot

Interesting twist to this. Permitted development rights to not apply until the house is complete. I recently erected my ground mount solar PV, that was included on my plans. I then filled in the space under them to make a shed. That does not have PP and is not yet permitted development. I won't loose sleep over it.

Do EV's have a log or readout of how many charge / discharge cycles they have done? Or in the future if buying a used EV should you be asking "Has it been used for V2G charging?"

That's handy to know for anyone buying a building plot but not planning to sell the old house straight away. Doesn't help anyone buying an old house to knock down and rebuild.