ProDave

Being the poor sod given the task of getting a washing machine upstairs is all I need to convince me an upstairs laundry is a silly idea.

No a lift car (probably just a skeleton of) that has a floor stepped, to match the steps of the stair, and it drops down onto the bottom 3 steps of the staircase. Yes whacky idea, but would mean a lift could fit anywhere.

I have designed in my head the concept of a lift that would operate above a staircase.

There are some differences to mine, the controller is completely different. To enable the thermostat input, switch DIP switch 2 - 8 UP The thermostat input is on terminal block 3. Input L2 on terminal 30 is the heating switched L input and L on terminal 27 is the L out to the thermostat. N on terminal 28 is neutral if your thermostat / controller needs it.

I could post a link to the manual for mine, but it would be more helpful if @Arvyd posted a link to the manual for his which is bound to be different. In my case the pump should not run all the time. The pump is integral to the heat pump (plus I suplimented an external one as well) and only turns on when the HP is working. It should not make much difference to total energy usage how the heat pump is timed. In our low energy house I have it timed to be on in the day and off at night (for a silent night) when it is on in the day it is under the control of the room thermostats. The temperature does not drop much overnight so if it were left on it would just cycle a couple of times to keep the temperature up, which would then give it less work to do in the morning, so I doubt it would cost an more.

I am not familliar with the R32 version, but if we assume it is the same as mine then the programming unit has timer functions built in. But I found it a very complicated thing to use and set, so I decided not to use it for anything other than setting up parameters. My unit has a hardware input for a "room thermostat" To enable that you have to flick one of the DIP switches on the control board. I use this, in conjunction with an ordinary central heating programmer to determine the on and off times of the heating.

Do you not have any existing heating? I had to take my pullover off, I was getting too hot. The heating is off as all the thermostats are satisfied.

What size of build and what building cost did you think it would be? Our building warrant was done by the architectural technician who put together all the drawings and technical information and set the build cost estimate, which they believed, but I would have to dig up the paperwork to see what that estimate was.

Yes a victory for common sense.

I put that "all property is mine until paid for" clause on my invoices. It's just another lever if the job goes bad, which never happens to me. I can't see this ending anywhere other than court at the moment. I don't have a solution.

I like the Digger. Ours was called Douglas (Dug)

I am convinced had I been female, there is no way I would endure pregnancy and child birth. There must be something about women that makes them really really want to be a mother and ignore "the process"

I post this as an example https://www.rightmove.co.uk/house-prices/detailMatching.html?prop=43140655&sale=20127745&country=scotland That is actually a block of low rise flats, with a galvanised balcony forming the access platform for the upper floor flats, but it sounds like the sort of thing you are looking for. Bolted to the building at one side and standing on steel posts at the outer edge. I am sure you could make something that a looks nicer and less utilitarian.

OR checked by BC. I am relying on that. This is mine going in It all came from https://www.flue-pipes.com/ the cheapest I could find at the time.

I used the cheap No Nonsense inhibitor / antifreeze from Screwfix.

When we know the gender, WE can choose the name.

What does that "kit" include? Not a lot judging by the price. It cost me just about £1K for all the flue pipe bends, brackets, roof kit, flashing etc to go up through an upstairs bedroom and out of the roof.

Congratulations. Boy or girl?

IMPORTANT TIP: Some light fittings like that, you can only assemble ONCE. The back cover clips onto the actual lamp holder and it WILL NOT unscrew or otherwise detach. DO NOT think about trying to fit the cover until the cable is connected. Of course you know how I know that.

Well the man came today to template the worktops. As I suspected the centreline of the tap hole is going to be 70mm in from the back of the worktop. putting it right on top of the back section of the unit. The fitter said don't worry we will make any cut outs we need. But I got the distinct impression they would fit the tap to the worktop then notch just enough to get the hoses through. I like things to be maintainable, and work on the basis that some day someone might want to change the tap and might like easier access. So I got busy with a saw. The cut out is a bit wider than the sink, and plenty low enough. And by lining the sides and the bottom should ensure when you drop a nut or a washer, it won't end up lost under the unit. That's the boiling water unit sitting in the bottom. It's final location won't be decided until I see the sink and tap in place and see were it best fits.

I would frame that and hang it in your hallway. Wear it with pride like a teenager is proud to be given an ASBO.

My ASHP cost me just under £1K from ebay and self installed. If I had paid full retail price and paid the (some say over inflated) MCS installers price, then the RHI payments would never have repaid the extra cost. I am sure there is a lot of "creativity" going on. If the RHI claim is done honestly, based on real expected energy usage, then in something like an MBC build, your RHI payments will be a lot lower than you have indicated. The argument against GSHP when I looked at it, was the cost of the collector pipes, manifolds and all the brine to fill it with cost more than the actual GSHP. then add in the ongoing maintenance (you have to change it every 10 years or so) then it is not worth it for the small increase in efficiency compared to an ASHP.

The IMPORTANT thing before you do ANYTHING is to note that not all cables of the same colour do the same thing, so you need to mark EVERY cable in some way before you disconnect anything so you can always revert to how it was. There is a LOT going on there. You have two 3 core & earth cables, one being red / yellow / blue and one being Brown / black / grey. 2 way switching? I would be inclined to sink a round plasterboard box into the ceiling to give you space to terminate everything exactly as it is now, bringing one bit of 3 core flex out to your light fitting. something like this, https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-circular-dry-liner-box-35mm/90517 Once all your terminals are tucked up inside the box, I am sure the mounting bracket for the light fitting will just fix to the two screws with standard socket screws.

So now the "big picture" of what this is all about and the job in hand. Over a year ago when we fitted the kitchen, we had neither the time or money to organise the final worktop, so I fitted a temporary cheap worktop and sink. But being a cash strapped self builder, that worktop was not going to be wasted. A bit of forward planning and that worktop was always destined to move to the utility room. That is why the worktop was left deliberately over length, hanging out close to the stove, but we managed not to even singe it (thanks to a metal baffle plate screwed under the overhanging bit) So now the utility room was finally ready for it And it fitted like a glove It was the waste fitting and shelf in the utility room that was the starting point of this thread. So now for the next 2 weeks we have an awkward situation with no sink in the kitchen, and all sink work being done in the utility room. Should keep us fit with all the walking between rooms. So in the kitchen we are now preparing for the new sink and worktop. Here is the sink rested in place to give a flavour of the challenges that it poses. It's an under mounted sink going in a granite worktop. I will know more when the guys arrive this afternoon to template the worktop. But the obvious thing that strikes me, as the tap will go through the worktop behind the sink, that the tap is going to be a long way back. So I can see no alternative but cut a lot of the back panel of the sink unit away, and even then, it is going to be a very awkward job fitting the tap. I will be interested to see how others with similar arrangements have done this?

Use a larger diameter tube.