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About MaryM

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  1. @Temp I have a meter so it can be turned off outside but it's down a hole, my keyholder is a very practical woman but opening up holes in the rain might be a bit too much
  2. @scottishjohn the joiner is on his way to do just that - will do for now then I will read all the other ideas and get it properly sorted when I get back all the trouble I've had is with the main contractor, the joiner is an angel, and the contractor did the 'design'
  3. just googling and found this: would that reach back under the cupboard floor to turn the stoptap off?
  4. Hi everyone, I've written a lot about my disaster garage job under my 'Hello & Panic' and 'Hello more trouble' threads in the introduce forum, now I've got plumbing trouble - my builder has fixed a sink unit to the wall in front of the mains stoptap, the tap is right down near the floor under the base of the sink unit so you can't reach it. I'm going away on holiday on Sunday and writing a list for my emergency keyholder, is there anything I can do so she can get at the tap if she needs to turn the water off while I'm away?
  5. ps I do have legal expenses cover and I did talk to them a couple of days ago, they think the 'balance of probability' test (over 50%) that I did ask the builder for advice on permissions is likely to be fulfilled since then I found an e-mail I wrote to a friend just a couple of days after work started, before anything significant had been done, saying that to cover myself when I come to sell the house I'd had to ask my builder for the exact words I'd need to write on the solicitor's enquiry form to satisfy them as to exemptions because I said 'I'd had to' and not 'I will have to' or 'am going to' it's pretty indicative that I'd already asked the questions and received the negative answers I relied on that was written a month before I found out the advice was wrong so I will go back to my insurers - thanks
  6. morning @andyscotland and that you for yet again confirming I'm going the right way, very helpful that you are saying the same as @Sensus previously enlightened me, about work needing to comply with building regs even when it doesn't require approval, I would never have worked that out on my own so, I spent last week trying to get an architectural designer/technician to do exactly as you advise and visit but because I cannot afford to go the full compliance route they are not interested so I thought about a surveyor I found a local estate agent chain which offers surveying from a qualified RICS member who was originally an architectural technician and have mailed this morning asking if he will visit on a consultancy basis, I have said all along I will pay for consultancy if I can find anyone authoritative who will work on those terms if I can get the list as you suggest above, then I will indeed give the present builder the option you suggest he is pushing hard to visit this evening and I am certain it is with the intention only of pressing for money which scares me, I live alone and have asked a friend to be here as a witness because my verbal exchanges with the builder have been misrepresented last week I found out you can apply to our local BC for a cost estimate for regularisation, I believe I can keep the window in a garage without having to go the full conversion route but it still needs BC approval, it was suggested to me that a simple sketch plan would suffice instead of the technical drawings I'd been led to believe I needed at a cost of hundreds of pounds, so I did a sketch myself using Word and sent it off, I'm a bit proud of it! I told the builder I would not pay any more money until I had a reply from BC which hasn't happened yet, and I'm trying to stay strong and stick to that I can't stress how much the supportive and informative views from people like yourself have helped me work my way through this blind maze, you can all be proud of yourselves my builder wasn't a family friend, he did become a social friend when he got a dog for his kids and brought the family round for tea in my garden through the summer, but I did his accounts for 6 years during which I was in a position of absolute trust, signatory to his bank account, registered HMRC agent, got him out of some sticky fixes and never, ever made a mistake with his client accounts, CIS returns, or statutory reports, he knows I made sure his records were 'squeaky clean' in the event he ever had a Revenue or VAT inspection and I did that to protect him and his family as they do not have limited company protection I thought he would realise that I would never do anything to try to evade regulations and he has let me down big-time blaming me for not applying myself sorry I am dumping stress now but I am so very upset and worried, I have given my word to BC that the garage will be returned to garage status but I cannot get him to help me let's see if BC accept my work of art and give me a price for regularisation of the window at least! window sketch for BC copy.pdf
  7. @nod sorry I am a bit slow here, lack of sleep, do you believe the insulation would not have passed building control? I already know that dividing the garage, putting in a radiator and a window needed approval, I didn't realise the insulation would also? if that's true then it does help!
  8. thank you @nod I'm sure you're right I have paid him some money and he's trying to intimidate me into paying more, I am trying to be firm but it's hard when I don't know what I'm talking about I have done my best by reporting the error to Building Control as soon as I found out, stopping the work and trying to get him to put it right but he doesn't want to know about anything until I have paid more money then he can't even send me numbers that add up, and that's something I do know about! I've been up half the night again sick with worry, if I could just get this over with I'd be happy to pay someone else to put it right this is what his website says, you'd believe from that he did know, he did the design, and he specified the works, now he's trying to blame me for not applying to BC
  9. @nod he wants me to pay for the work he's done (as in the photo) how can the barrier between the brick & stud be corrected without takingi it all out? so i have to pay him for doing it wrong, pay him again to take it out and pay a third time to put it back right? no can do!
  10. @andyscotland my builder is now demanding I pay him for the non-compliant work he's done and for the insulation, I've confirmed there are no vapour barriers at all anywhere. you expressed the thought the builder 'ought to be on the hook for putting that right', any ideas anyone on how to do that? I've told him I want my garage made legal again but all he does is ask for money, today I got a demand for another few thousand 'I've got to pay' he says, and it doesn't even add up I'm at the end of my rope, I just want him off my back but I don't know how, I'd even pay someone else to put his work right if he'd stop coming after me for money but I can't afford to pay twice
  11. @andyscotland it wasn't because he had some, it was ordered from Travis Perkins for me and it doesn't fit the stud spacings, it's 455 wide and the stud is 300 apart, no idea about comparative price the diagram on the Knauf site for installing cavity slabs doesn't show any vapour barriers, just brick/cavity slab/block, would that be because it's ventilated? air bricks again? that would make sense to me with your comments above, because the stud/brick cavity in the garage isn't ventilated at all, flat roof up top (that's also been stuffed full of insulation) and no air bricks, well I suppose you wouldn't in a single brick wall, would you? whereas the house has them on the brick/block cavity side wall
  12. this is the stuff I have got, is it possible to ID by looking at it?
  13. another question: builder now says insulation is Knauf Dritherm Cavity Slab 37 Standard 100mm 455x1220mm it isn't obvious to me why anyone would use a material designed for brick/block cavity walls in a stud installation, but then what do I know? @andyscotlandwould using this product mean no vapour barriers were needed? will I ever make sense of this?
  14. how close to the surface is it meant to be? sorry the pictures are not very good and I'm not sure which bits are relevant to pro's like you the plasterboard is attached directly to the stud timber and is 12.5mm thick, the wires run through holes centred 35mm from the surface of the stud, so I guess the wiring is 47.5mm under the surface? the metal boxes are attached to the stud surface so the wires going in & out of those are further forward, if that makes sense?
  15. ok, lots more helpful stuff here! @andyscotland correct about concrete floor with joists resting directly on it then chipboard on top, prev owners used the space for their hobby, storage of colossal collection of vinyl records, just stuck some cheap carpet tiles on top of an amateur job although they knew enough to leave the 100mm 'garage' step down from the house I called it 'suspended' as I don;t know how else to describe it either an someone else said that I told you all a long time ago I don;t speak 'builder', I can tell you what size knitting needles to use for 4-ply wool or how much butter to put in a 3-egg Victoria sponge and that's my best offer! however your changed advice makes perfect sense even to me, insulating the garage floor has been relegated to a lost cause and I'd reduced my floor covering expectations from Karndean to garage flooring tiles or roll-out mat thanks to you and @SteamyTea for guidance on the electrics, I'm surprised because the sparky is registered NICEIC, has done lots for me including fuse boards, is very meticulous in certification so I'd expected his work, at least, to be reliable I'm waiting for confirmation on the exact Knauf product used, so far my builder said 'Knauf Insulations Batts 100mm thickness' which I don't think identifies the product with precision?