ProDave

I took roof tiles off and cut a hole int the roof to fit the stove flue long after it was tiles so you can do the same for an internal stack pipe. Which way do the floor joists run on your drawing? Solid wood or posi joists?

Report it as a leak on "the incoming pipe" Have a boundary box and hole dug and a brown envelope to encourage the guys to install it.

What about ventilation? In a true warm roof, you don't ventilate it. A cold roof needs ventilation. What have they done for this half way house? From experience, Something like Frametherm 35 will push in between the rafters and stay there. I had a test piece in place like that for over 6 months before finally covering it with OSB and it did not budge. A LOT easier to cut to width so it is a snug fit than any solid insulation. To be sure it stays, once in place fix some thin battens across to hold it in place.

My suggestion is use an internal stack pipe. Stack pipes up the outside are so last century.

I'll bet someone would have taken that to rebuild. If you had any paperwork it might have been worth something?

I fitted a WBS in our static caravan. IT was lit in November and barely went out until the end of February. It certainly kept the cost of heating the 'van down (assuming your wood is free) but it was a challenge keeping up with the wood supply it needed.

Usually to live on the land, you get temporary planning permission for a static caravan, and you can then live on the land as soon as the PP is granted, before starting work. Unless there are conditions which might for instance say the site entrance has to be created first.

Late to the conversation, but we agonised over the same thing. We have Engineered Oak in our kitchen / diner that then runs through the hall to the snug living room. It is not oiled, but one pre finished in a matt finish. It is bearing up well, been in use for a year, Easy to sweep regularly and it cleans up well with a mop. So far no signs of stains or scratching, but we do try and not drop stuff on it or if we do clean up quickly. We chose engineered Oak rather than solid as it has UFH and the engineered type is suitable for UFH in wide (190mm) planks. No sign at all of shrinkage etc all joints are still nice and tight.

What is this "heat interface unit"? I have a Stiebel Eltron DHC-E 8/10 modulating instant 10KW water heater in the output from my UVC. It s there to cover multiple showers / baths in quick succession faster than the ASHP can re heat the tank, to prevent "no hot water" issues. Normally it sits there and does nothing as it's temperature is set slightly lower than the UVC temperature but if the water starts to run cool it will heat it up to maintain a hot water source. I have no way of knowing how many times it has "saved the day" but there were at least 3 "ran out of hot water" incidents before I installed it. not a single complaint since it was installed. Firstly you are going to need to know the worst case space heating requirements for the building to size the ASHP then think about how you are going to deal with the hot water needs. One very large tank or several smaller ones or something other than the ASHP for DHW. More details on the building. You only mention 50 square metres of UFH but the building is 309 square metres so 6 floors?

Which room is the stove in? Are there any extract fans in that room? Where does the stove get it's combustion air from?

Well nobody shouted at me not to do it, so I have done it. And here it is with the shelf in place There were a few other things that constrained me, like the position of the main stop tap, otherwise I could have put the shelf a bit higher still. For those pondering the details, in effect I was intercepting and modifying the "inner workings" of a waste trap system. That presents a few difficulties. The main one being the pipe used withing the trap is 40mm, yes real 40mm outside diameter pipe. Unlike the "40mm" waste pipe we all buy and use that is something like 43mm outside diameter. So standard "40mm" waste pipe and fittings are no good for modifying an intermediate bit of a waste system. The solution. 40mm compression waste fittings have enough give to compress down onto real 40mm pipe so that is what I used for the 2 elbows. That means the extra horizontal bit is 43mm pipe. That just meant I needed an extra bit of real 40mm pipe, which of course you cannot easily buy. The solution to that is my washing machine stand pipe is now 6" shorter than it was this morning to donate the 6" of 40mm pipe I needed. Have I ever mentioned I hate waste pipe and fittings and the fact not all bits fit together as one might hope? More on this thread to come when I have made more progress on the job in hand and taken some more pictures.

There is a bit more to this thread that I will expand upon later. The immediate question refers to sink wastes and traps, a job I am trying to do just now and would appreciate an opinion please. If I fit the waste and trap as it is intended, the trap ends up very low inside the sink unit. Even allowing for the fact I can shorten the bit of pipe above the trap, it still ends up lower than I want, which forces me to put the shelf a lot lower than I want, or forces me to cut a hole in the shelf for the trap to hang down through which is awkward and I think looks like a bodge. If I make some "alterations" I can move the trap so it is lower down, below the level of the shelf, and right at the back of the unit. This mock up shows what I have in mind. Again by shortening the first bit of pipe out of the branch, my top elbow will be higher if I proceed and do this. This would mean I only need to notch the back of the shelf to clear the pipe, and can fit the shelf where I want otherwise unobstructed. Can anyone give me a reason not to do this?

That is pretty much the detail we have on the roof (except wood fibre board used instead of your OSB) For the eaves vent, I used the OV10 provile vent strip which is more suited to this application https://fascias.com/over-fascia-vent-ov10-1m-x-10mm And the bottom edge of the tiles sit on the top of the vent strip.

The lesson from that is if you know there are cables nearby, turn the electric off or at least the circuits you think might be there. The rule with a double socket is the cables can be anywhere withing the width of the socket up the wall so assume the full width of the accessory might contain cables. And check with a non contact voltage pen which should detect cables just burried in the plaster.

There are plenty of self builders in Scotland, and a lot of them (like us) are Englishmen. Probably the best advice you can give him is to join the forum and talk to us directly, otherwise you are going to be very busy relaying information. The first thing to get right is the plot, making sure the plot is actually suitable, which is where a good solicitor is helpful. Then we can talk him through building regs and building warrants that are different here to England.

Even reading it for the third time that still made me smile.

I have never looked at single room mvhr, perhaps others can comment. If you are not having mvhr then it won't pass building regs without an extract fan AND trickle vents to let air back in.

The males on the forum are all cringing imagining the agony. The ladies are all thinking what?

Building regs demand you have a certain extract rate from a kitchen unless you have MVHR. In our case the mvhr inlet at one end and extract at the other are now ballanced so there should be no net flow of air into or out of the room, and hence no pressure change.

You can buy something similar sized on ebay from China for a couple of £hundred. At that price I might one day take a punt more for fun than real expectation of significant generation. A bit like micro hydro from our burn that will probably only produce 100W so would need to be REALLY cheap.

A long time ago I was building a fence on a Sunday. Nailing planks outside and the hammer went astray and hit my thumb. Hard. It throbbed like hell all night and had a huge blood blister under the nail by the morning. So Monday morning, first thing over to see the nurse. Big advantage of working somewhere with a decent medical facility, seen instantly with no wait. The nurse used an unfolded paper clip, heated over the flame of a spirit burner to pierce the nail and relieve the pressure. The relief was immediate. True to her prediction I lost the nail but a new one grew back.

Whilst they could no doubt be built based on a Stirling engine, that would take some half decent engineering. Most of them are simply a little peltier effect generator driving a small dc motor. The "fins" on the top are to try and cool the upper half to maintain a temperature difference between that and the bottom part heated by the stove.

100mm of PIR type insulation and a step (and reduction in headroom) or dig up all the concrete and start again.

I thought looped services were no longer allowed, so I suspect you will have to have two new supplies. You can probably cut down the costs by digging the road and pavement only once, and then running the supply to one of them through the front gardens of the other two but I suspect that is the only saving you can make. At the end if the day is is up to your DNO what they will allow so all you can do is ask them for a quote and if they want separate supplies discuss the idea of routing cables under your gardens so it can be done with just one road opening.

Can you organise the layout of the site so the garage can be built under permitted development once the extension is complete?