ProDave

That's why they fit a proper enclosed "toby" here, like I linked to before. How did they shut the water off to fit it? A pipe squasher?

I very much doubt Grant have suddenly started making them. So the question first becomes, what make ASHP have they stuck their name on? Any details?

So I needed two 40mm solvent weld straight couplers. I needed them today so I could not mail order. £4.30 for two from TP. I could have got 5 from screweys for £3.75 or 78p each in Toolstation. Just saying. Then they wonder why I don't buy much from them lately.

The Wood burning stove. That's the air inlet duct through the wall (taped up). It had been there previously on a non matching non compliant (too small) slab and in use for last winter. In fact I have just put it back and for the first time it's on a hearth that complies with building regs.

^^^ Thanks. It might not be until Friday PM before I have time to make that call.

I have re read the manual and it says it is normal for the tundish to "drip" during normal operation. I definitely have a flow, not a drip. I am going to temporarily run the discharge hose to a bucket so I can measure how much is discharging. A phone call the the technical help line is called for, but not until I can find a non 0845 telephone number for them (not included in my call plan and as I found out once, VERY expensive to call) EDIT: just done that test. If I fill a mug with boiling water, about a quarter of a mug full of boiling water goes down the drain. That does not sound right to me.

To complete this, the Granite worktops were fitted today, so we are back to a working kitchen, and a boiling water tap (see other thread)

I finally got my Lamona / Redring boiling water tap installed today. That's using the McAlpine additional appliance connector below the half bowl, and the standard appliance connector below it for the dishwasher. I have yet to put the sink unit back together and fit the shelf in it. Fitting the tap was easy as I fitted it after the worktop was in, but before the sink was fitted. Hopefully if ever I need to change it, the large cut out I made in the rear of the unit will afford enough access. There is one issue / oddity. All the time you are running the boiling tap, some of the water discharges through the tundish. Here is a (sorry very poor) picture. The black hose is the boiling water out from the heating tank. The braided steel hose goes off to the actual tap outlet. The grey hose from the bottom of the tundish goes off to the drain via one of the appliance connectors. Can anyone explain exactly how this is supposed to work. If it is "normal" for some of the boiling water to go straight down the drain then that is disappointing and wasteful. Otherwise I have some sort of problem. I did as the instructions said and mounted this tundish as high in the sink unit as possible.

I see plenty of mouldy lofts where warm air is getting into the loft, but what I was meaning is when cutting a hole for a switch or socket, or just removing an existing one, it is very rare to see any signs of distress in the timber frame exposed or OSB (or plywood) layer.

So what do you describe a wall and roof construction, where it is insulated outside the frame AND between the studs of the frame. I have always called that a warm wall / roof. I see many old timber framed properties, that are insulated between the studs, without any VCL at all, and I have yet to find one that is showing any signs of dampness let alone rot in the frame, so I suspect this is a theoretical problem that just does not happen in real life.

Ah yes, the scourge of modern electronics, rubbish capacitors. To be honest I would source some decent capacitors, e.g. Panasonic and do a proper repair. I am willing to bet the new one will go the same way.

Why would you have no insulation between the studs? do you want a cold house? The VCL would surely go on the inside of the frame? (mine is as I think everyone else)

Pretty rubbish website, no technical information and no downloads. Do you have an electronic copy of the manual?

Is that something re badged by a local supplier to you?

Nothing to stop you having two heat sources with appropriate valves and controls to select one or the other. But it seems an unnecessary cost and complication. The other thing that puts me off ground source, is the compressor is inside the house somewhere, purring away like a fridge a lot of the time. I prefer the noise outside with monoblock ASHP.

You have probably said elsewhere , what make and model of heat pump? Do you have the manual?

This is what's generally known as a ground source heat pump. It extracts heat from water, instead of from air. Arguably they are more efficient and don't need to defrost like an air source heat pump has to sometimes. The downside usually is they use a lot of pipes laid in the ground circulating brine as their source, or a borehole, both of which are expensive to install making them a lot more expensive than an air source heat pump so probably less good value for money. The well may work as a heat source, providing the water is refreshed somehow, otherwise you might just end up with a frozen well in the winter. I thought about using our burn as a heat source but to do it legally would require an extraction licence.

Power will usually be fed to the unit from a switched fused connection unit. Check first the fuse in that is okay and it is getting power.

Interesting point. The council tax assessor prefixed our address with "Caravan" for the valuation list. His reasoning being when the house is valued it will be added in its own right, and the "caravan" entry will be removed. A by product of that, is we are on the electoral roll at "caravan" as well.

In the case of mine, it was an error I got installing the system. Once the issue was identified and the extra pump added it has been fine. In @Home Farm case I would be wanting to know what the issue is and both a local way to reset it, but more important what alteration is needed to prevent it. Is this support just because it is still in warranty? What happens after the warranty period?

What was the "fault" that shut it down? I would want to know that and I would want to know how to reset it myself. Did you try a power cycle? One thing that our LG ASHP is fussy about is water flow rate. It will lock out with a "CH14" error if it detects low flow. A power cycle is needed to reset it but it will trip agin if the flow is too low. To get ours working when I installed it, I had to fit an external pump as the inbuilt one was not powerful enough.

I tested it by plugging the ends and pumping up with air. Air filled drain pipe floats. I did fill it with water when I re laid it.

No not really. Just make sure your joists are sized for the extra dead load if using this method. There was sand left over from the build so all I had to buy was a couple of bags of cement, making it very cheap.

Yes that will be right. To get my finished floor level right, I had to add 6mm under my battens, ripped from a sheet of 6mm ply.

I laid a load of drainage early on in the build, and it rained heavy overnight and it all floated out of the trenches.