ProDave

You put your hand up the outlets inside the IC until you reach the actual pipe and put the stopper in the end of the actual bit of pipe. Assuming your IC risers and lid have seals, you could assemble them with the lid on and test the whole lot in one go. I did that with the BC man watching to prove the outside drain runs. I was surprised the IC risers and lids sealed so well.

Yes even here in Scotland (where SEPA seem harder to get agreement from than the EA) a neigbour got permission to site a treatment plant closer to the burn as there was not physically room on the plot to meet all the distances. For SEPA I had to measure the flow rate in low water conditions to satisfy them of the dilution rate. Easily done with a temporary V notch weir which since it only had to survive a very short time, I made from a sheet of OSB.

Just check the regulations to ensure it's location is acceptable (it would not be in Scotland) And you will need to get a new discharge permit for it from the Environment Agency. That will all be part of the building control process.

I don't understand your drainage. You show a new treatment plant by the entrance. It would not be allowed that close to the road and a watercourse in Scotland, check the English regs? Where will it discharge to? you mention the old "treatment plant" is that really a treatment plant or a septic tank? Where does that discharge to? Why not keep that and use it for the new house?

Change it for a timber deck chair. And stop wearing your tinfoil helmet when sat in the chair.

No mention of a simple hand held electric plane or a multi tool in your list. They are essentials.

Plus you can bend the pipe a little over a 3M length to get a few mm more if needed.

I have had the windows of my sun room boarded up with plain untreated OSB3 for 5 years now. It has not fallen apart yet. It will be scrap when we eventually can afford the windows but it is lasting surprisingly well.

I had another USB issue that if you put the PC to sleep, it would wake up if you just pressed a key or wiggled the mouse. There was another setting to stop it waking up on USB activity or something. @Jeremy Harris trying to get a pc to run without a keyboard reminds me of the old "No keyboard detected, press F1 to continue" error message.

Can you do a sketch of what you are proposing please as I just can't understand how it can be anything other than how it is.

I come back yet again as I am still having spurious CH14 errors (low flow rate) As before they happen when the unit is idle. Heating is off now and for the last 3 days or so it has not even come on to heat DHW as the solar PV has been doing that all by itself. Yet I notices yesterday afternoon it had once more, while idle, thrown up a CH14 error. I have speculated in the past that I believe it to be a very short spurious heat demand being sensed by an over sensitive input and then processed by some badly thought out software. My previous attempt to fix this has been a pull down resistor and a snubber on the thermostat input. It seemed to work at first but now the problem is back, I don't know why. So this morning I have implemented what I think is a more robust fix. The input from the thermostat no longer goes directly to the thermostat input terminal. Instead it is used to energise a small relay that I have fitted inside the ASHP. And now I use a changeover contact on that relay to energise the heat pump. The relay common connects to the heat pump thermostat input terminal. The relay NO connects to L so when the relay energises the heat pump gets the call for heat demand as if it came straight from a room thermostat. But crucially now, the relays NC contact is connected to N. So when there is no call for heat, the input is not just floating, with a long length of wire attached, but is clamped down to N so there really should be no chance of any induced spikes that I think have been the cause of the problem. I now go into a "wait and see" period to find out if this has finally nailed it. If not, I am out of ideas.

As you get on with the neighbour, I would talk to them about the idea of taking down their garage wall, building your extension wall and re joining their garage to your new wall. It would mean a lot of disruption for them, but the plus point is their garage would probably get bigger by the thickness of it's existing wall. And for you it solves all the issues of leaving a gap.

That looks nice.

So how would you do that? You would have to put a bend in to get the WC waste into the end straight through port, then where would the shower go?

I would have been aiming for the WC straight into the side as you have it pictured, and the shower into the 45 degree outlet to the left of that. Our main stack comes into the side of an identical looking chamber with no issues.

I would dig away a bit more of that "island" of soil between the two exits from the house. Put whatever bend is needed so that the toilet waste goes into the first side branch and the shower waste into the second side branch. Then the rodding point into the straight through connection.

Just a word of caution. As much as I like the Gyproc Promix Lite it only comes in 22Kg tubs. That's fine if you have a lot to do. On one previous occasion I only had a small but to do so bought a small tub of something from B&Q. Unfortunately I can't remember what make it was. but it was dire. It's adhesion to plasterboard was poor, it was way too stiff and hard to smooth down with the float, and when dry very hard to sand it to get a good finish. So stick to a recommended product.

Do you mean tape and fill or plaster skim? I ask because in my world tape and fill is all done with one material, I use Gyproc Promix Lite

I suspect it would not be allowed in Scotland as the "accessible bathroom" must not be an en-suite. Perhaps you could argue it if all bathrooms were made to the accessible requirements?

21KVA would be considered a normal rating so start with that and see what they come back with. In our case they offered a lower rating and I accepted that to avoid paying network upgrade costs. But give us some idea of how well insulated the house is (i.e. heating demand) and how you will be heating the house, cooking electric showers etc? If you want 3 phase ask for it NOW. Is there a particular reason you want 3 phase. It may or may not add extra costs. What you are proposing with the temporary supply comes with a cost to move the supply into the house later on. One way around that that several of us have done, is make the outside meter box on the boundary a permanent feature, so we pay once to get the supply connected there and there is no further involvement from SSE at a later stage.

I too did a multipanel overlay over tiles in a previous property. There are cheaper alternatives to multipanel if logevity is not your aim.

Yes you need a very minimum of 100mm of GOOD insulation so it all has to come out. Unless you want a step up as you enter the kitchen?

As above, the reason "American" FF's are so much better than a fully integrated one, is they are much deeper. But beware never trust the dimensions given. Look again at my picture. That FF was advertised as "fits standard 600mm deep units" That turned out to be untrue. The FF we had was about 700mm deep PLUS the doors. To make it work, we had to bring the cupboards either side of it and the bridging cupboards out further, adding two large gable end panels to do so.

It's not until you start looking at how these things work that you realise what carp, useless "engineering" is behind them. At the price you pay for them, I think I would have hoped for something engineered a little better than what you have there I am afraid.

The American style FF's are not usually "built in" in the sense that they don't have cupboard dooors stuck to them to pretend to be cupboards. They merely slide into a recess. The water supply is often via a small 6mm diameter nylon hose so the tap can be some distance away as long as there is a route e.g under the units behind the kickboard to get to say the sink unit and the plumbing. We found the freezer capacity disappoionting in ours, so much space was taken up by the ice making gubbins and cold water dispensing mechanism. So much so that we kept a separate old under unit freezer in the utility room. It sounds like you need to take out some units to make space, slot in an American FF and fill in the resulting gaps with bridging units above and some form of side infill. How hard that is depends how old your kitchen is and whether you can get more units to match. Agree a picture and dimensions of what you have in mind would help.. Not the best picture, but this is the FF we had in the last house.