ProDave

The toilet does need to be matched to the cistern. In a previous house the toilet was quite old and the cistern was a lot larger than modern ones, but I don't know how much larger. At the time, water saving was becoming popular and the water company sent everyone a device to reduce the toilet flush volume. It was basically a plastic bag that you filled with water and placed in the cistern, It was a total dead loss, the reduced volume of water with a pan expecting a large volume just did not clear solids and took 2 or 3 flushes. I think I left it there for 2 days to give it a fair trial and then removed and binned it.

Ours is called Willow burn. But we have more than one Willow tree so should be safe. The last house was called Beechwood Lodge because there was a large Beech tree in the garden, that blew down in a storm 2 years after completion.

You should get a clean picture with the Ariel.

35mm deep back boxes are much better for "loop at switch" lighting,

If S3 and S2 form a 2 way switching pair, then you will need a 3core & earth (for the 2 way switching) AND a 2 core and earth (to feed power to the other lights) between them. Use 1mm for everything. 1.5 is simply not necessary for 99% of domestic lighting and in some cases is awkward in some light fittings. Remember safe zones.

Actually looking again at the static 'van, I see there are steel cross members periodically. So imagine say every 5th wooden joist being replaced with a same size C section steel beam. That plus the ring beam gives additional support to the walls at the edges.

One thing you have not mentioned yet is the ring beam around the perimiter. This joins all the joist ends together. So it has the effect of spreading the load on one beam to adjacent beams. So someone jumping on the floor at the edge, the load won't be placed on one beam, but shared by several. Likewise a high static load on one will be shared by adjacent beams. Our static caravan which is much the same construction, though with a shorter cantilever is made of timbers that look more like 3" by 2" I think it has something like 2" steel angle around the edge as a "ring beam"

What you need is to get on and restore those Capri's. That should keep you busy for a few weeks. God I hope the lockdown won't last until you have finished them........

We had a bit of a guess as we did not know exactly what flooring we would use other than it would be "wood" As it happened, the engineered oak we chose was at the thin end of the spectrum at 20mm, so to make it work, I needed 30mm battens, which of course are not readily available so I ended up using 25mm plus a sheet of 6mm ply ripped into strips. Re door mats. The two main doors are tiled with slate so we built in mat wells when tiling for a decent thickness door mat. The other doors have an ultra slim mat as @Jeremy Harris has.

Did you not notice the door frame is not plumb to the wall?

Previous house was a cold roof with trusses. That had a habit of making some loud creaks and cracks when the roof heated up on a warm day. The NO1 thing I would say is make a warm roof with a ridge beam. SO much easier to make air tight and so much better use of space.

UFH downstairs from ASHP. No heating needed upstairs.

Twin wall pretty smooth on the inside. Total cost £1072 from BPC for all ducting, terminal vents, plenum boxes etc but not the large duct from the plenum boxes to the mvhr unit, they came from another self builder left over from his job. BPC did not do the design, I am not sure what they would have charged if they did,

It's a semi rigid plastic ducting, in my case two ducts in parallel to each vent. And they all lead back to two plenum boxes next to the mvhr unit

Slightly smaller house, £400 for mvhr unit from ebay. Design done by house designer, Pipework, semi rigid 75mm radial system a little over £1000 from BPC, self installed in a couple of days. Dead easy.

Still got next years firewood to chop and stack. A shed to tidy up and reoorganise. A deck to finish (until I run out of wood for that) and some work to do in the garden. Then there is starting on the VAT claim. Not completely bored yet. but mustn't rush things.

Ours is a 195mm frame (filled with Frametherm 35) and 100mm wood fibre board on the outside then render. The house with 3g Rationel windows is extremely quiet. It does not creak or groan in strong wind, No steelwork in ours. The SE specified two layers of OSB on the frame as the racking layer with staggered joints. Same 100mm wood fibre used as the roof sarking and same frametherm insulation making a warm roof supported on a ridge beam. We have 25mm service void, that and 12mm plasterboard is a perfect fit for 35mm back boxes for the electrics. 15mm (soldered copper) pipework fits in the 25mm gap. The utility room is the only place we have any 22mm pipes in the wall and that has a 45mm service void. Our bathroom was tight on space, so the outside wall there has no pipes or cables and the plasterboard goes straight on the frame with no service void. No difference in accoustics noticed.

@gwebstech what is the exact issue that you have?

Most of us self building are using more modern building methods. e.g. we are timber frame and between the frame and the plasterboard is a battened "service void" for all pipes and cables. Cables must follow "safe zones" as defined in the wiring regulations, I am not aware of any such regs for water pipes but I suspect there are for gas pipes.

I cut and oiled the last 3 bits of skirting today. When they are fitted in a few days that's that finished until I can get some more materials. That's not the skirting finished, just used up all I have,

It's like being retired but permanently stuck on a Sunday on the outer Hebredies (about the only place where most shops still shut on a Sunday) No thank you. Retirement where you can't buy anything or go anywhere would not be much fun.

And lots of pressure on the screw so it does not cam out and chew up the head.

No problem installing a cistern in a stud wall and no issue with the socket position. The regs only concern where the face of the socket is, and that is not going in a special location. The only issue might be when the loo is flushed, the noise of it re filling may be an issue in the living room.

Even of the frame of the HL is fixed by steels, you could still raise it by 50mm to even up the flight. Is that worth looking at?

What worries me about this is the TOTAL load. You estimate the total load of the outbuildings to be 75A. That only leaves 25A for the house it is all fed from, so not much at all.