ProDave

This is what I recognise as a floor standing bath filler. It screws to the floor with 2 flexi tails emerging from the bottom that are connected below. That would work with your little raised platform. You can't cut it to length, it is the length is is.

There are MUCH better ways to spend Tesco vouchers. Spending them on food in the store gets you face value of the vouchers. Spending them on rewards gets you 3 times the face value (it used to be 4 times) e.g we use them to buy our RAC membership each year. Argos vouchers is another handy use.

I am not convinced the master bed is big enough. I would ditch the walk in to make the room bigger, you show a built in wardrobe and that would do for me. I would put the door to the garage from the dining room in that otherwise awkward looking alcove in the corner, so save splitting the run of kitchen units to put the door there.

Crane hire is complicated. If you want them to do everything then I think it's called a contract lift. That is probably the 1/2 day you were quoted. The alternative is basic crane hire but you need to supply the banksman and slinger and take responsibility for planning the lift (this is what the boat club does with a few members trained in the role of slinger and banksmen and the club has it's own slings) What size are the trusses and what height? and what access e.g scaffolding. A decent size digger can often be fitted with a lifting boom, this is what lifted our big ridge beam up

The engineered boards were 20mm thick. I forget what span they were rated for but definitely okay for 400mm centres.

JJI I beam engineered joists. Size specified by the structural engineer to suit the span and loading, in this case a 5 metre span. They were about 300mm deep and laid at 400mm centres. I don't have the costs to hand as they were supplied and fitted by the builders that put the frame up so it just got lumped into one of their invoices. I laid strips of OSB in the bottom of the I to form a platform to support the insulation. Filled the void with 300mm of frametherm 35, then a sheet of DPM as an air tight layer, then an OSB deck to support the UFH with battens following the joists to support the final floor.

At the moment I have my home made PV diverter set to turn on a little 750W convector heater when there is no other load. That will come on at mid day even when the immersion heater is running at 100% on a sunny day if there is nothing else on in the house at that time.

Yes, my engineered boards are 20mm

The immersion heaters thermostat opens when it gets to max temperature. Some of the more clever units can then dump the power somewhere else.

Sorry if I misled you, my ground floor joists are on 400mm centres.

Yes the wood floor directly over the screed as in picture one, but the weight is not taken by the screed, rather by the battens. Battens are 25mm by 50mm. It needs to be a structural floor that can span your joist spacing.

Solid State Relay. The device that pulses the power to the immersion heater.

Plenty of insulation, i.e. thick joists. Mine are 300mm I beam joists with 300mm of Frametherm 35 insulation. I over boarded with OSB, then battens following the joists, and UFH pipes is a biscuit mix, then engineered Oak floor. In the hall and utility room I laid chipboard then ply and slate tiles. Some people prefer aluminium spreader plates rather than biscuit mix. If you intend biscuit mix make sure the joists are sized for the extra dead load.

Do you mean (concrete) beam and block floor or timber joist suspended floor?

My own LG heat pump does have the ability to control the immersion via a contactor. Although I wired the contactor in I have disabled that function. My own PV dump controller just has the SSR that switches the immersion connected in parallel with the contactor so it would still operate should i wish to use it.

This appears to be your cylinder https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/acatalog/Mitsubishi-Ecodan---Monobloc-Air-Source-Heat-Pump-with-Pre-Plumbed-Standard-Cylinder---Coastal---Protected--PUHZ_W___BS_____Comb.html Just a random link chosen not a recommendation to buy it from there. It looks to have a standard nominal 3kW immersion heater with no pre connected wiring so it looks to be completely free for you to use as you wish.

HDMI is a real pain for computers. I tried connecting the laptop to the tv to use it for iplayer. What a palava. It would only work if you slected the tv as the only display, it would not work if you tried to display on the tv and the laptops own screen due to different resolution displays, the picture on the tv over scans slightly and I cannot find any settings on the tv to adjust that. And finally on the laptop you have to separately switch the audio output to the hdmi. Why it can't just do that automatically when it detects an hdmi display beats me. It was just far too clumsy to do more than once.

I used to have a folder in my old XP machine mapped as a shard folder for other computers. On the remote computer you then use "map network drive" and that folder becomes visible to the file system usually as Z: Now I just have a network accessible drive that any computer (windows or linux) can see and any files we want to share we just drop in there. Why are people so paranoid about XP on the internet? I had an old laptop (remember the one I could not get linux to work on) so I put a fresh install of XP back on that, I found the latest version of firefox still works on XP as does AVG anti virus. For email I found the latest Thunderbird did not work on XP so I found an older version that did. I sold it on ebay set up like that.

That is the same system I used even the same render system. If you are planning on render then have a discussion with me first, I have some issues with the top coat delaminating in a few places which is still an ongoing issue but investigation has halted at the moment due to CV-19.

I would be phoning around looking for a local joiner to come on board with you. He should have more experience of this sort of stuff and all the tools needed.

What is going on the outside? I don't see enough detail in those drawings. There should be some drawings that show more detail like joist plans and details of important junctions. If you don't have them ask the designer / TF company for them.

Has he gone because of CV-19 or gone because you have fallen out? Do you have all the jousts and the rest of the timber frame kit? Do you have the drawings from the architect / TF company showing how it aall goes together? Pictures of where you are now?

The style of house was with a hipped roof. It will no doubt be in a street of similar hipped roofed houses. To try and convert it to a gable end would be most out of character and I can understand the council saying no.

Just caught up with this one. A bit close to home with the house sale problems, sales falling though, house worth a lot less than she was originally advised etc. Then the tight budget meaning paying labour was not an option. I would have been interested in the furnace heat recovery heating system proposed but not yet fitted. Oh and did I spot a non BR compliant staircase? (open treads)

Yes Hager is another make I have a great respect for, particularly their consumer units.