ProDave

That sort of an aerial is always a compromise and will be less good than a conventional one and the only way to know if it works is to buy one and try it. Point of interest, I would not buy from them on a point of principle as their website makes it IMPOSSIBLE to decline tracking cookies that kind of makes my blood boil just a little.

The solution to your problem: You want a "toilet" that will never be used for a No 2, and can be connected via a long horizontal pipe with a slight fall, a but like connecting a sink. Answer. Install a Urinal.

A lot of people don't realise you can run cables horizontally in a wall (I had a stand up finger wagging argument with a builder who tried to insist I could not do that) As long as there is one socket in the wall, it creates a safe zone both horizontally and vertically from that socket where you may run cables.

Sollution: Create a service void for all the wiring. Fit at least one socket on every wall. run cable at socket height around the whole room in the service void, then you can cut a hole and fit an additional socket anywhere you find you need one.

And how will the macerator know (and therefore behave differently) if there were a 3M long soil pipe (laid to the correct fall) between the pan and the macerator?

But this will only be dishwater (as in no $h!t Sherlock)

Good points: Building a room in roof 1 1/2 storey house with the roof detailed as a warm roof hung from a ridge beam. Allows the entire internal space to be part of the sealed internal space and is very much easier to get a good detail than attic trusses and a cold roof design. ASHP and UFH working well. Lots of insulation and good air tightness detail, good triple glazed windows well fitted. Room Sealed wood burning stove does not (contrary to popular belief) destroy the air tightness and leak heat out of the building, and (contrary to popular belief) does not overheat the house as long as you leave internal doors open to allow the heat into the whole house. To aid heat circulation from stove an efficient layout allowing main rooms to open up to central stairwell each with double doors. Lots of open space when you want it, or 2 closed off separate rooms when you want that instead. No heating upstairs, it does not need it (just UFH in the bathrooms so you don't have to walk on cold tiles) All bathrooms done as wet rooms. Vastly superior to shower trays. Unvented hot water cylinder heated by ASHP. Posi Joists. I would say essential if fitting mvhr. mvhr. If you are doing the well insulated air tight "proper" build then you must fit mvhr. easy DIY job, not overly expensive and contributes to your low heating bill. NO unwanted penetrations in the building (no conventional letterbox or cat flap) Bad points: Not many, the only one is the wood fibre EWI with render, we have some unresolved issues with the render so until that is resolved I cannot honestly recommend it.

Can I see a picture of the 32mm pipe trying to fit into what is left of the fitting after cutting the bit off? The bit that has been cut off would have been for a smaller pipe, which is why you cut it off if using 32mm, so of course the cut off bit won't fit onto a 32mm pipe.

Do you really want to enter a formal dispute with your neighbour? That would have to be declared if you sell the house and might put buyers off? What damage have you really suffered as a result of this? Is it really worth the agro this is going to cause you to rectify any damage? I agree it was bloody cheeky not to involve you, but this looks to me like a cut off your nose to spite your face situation?

My suggestion is print out the VAT claim form NOW and as each invoice comes in, write it down (yes with a pen) on the claim form and file the invoice in a box file in the same order it goes on the form. That would save the boring job at the end of going through the stack of invoices and filling in the form all on one go,. I am not sure what purpose "scanning" the invoices has? Other than a backup in case the claim gets lost in the post, as you are supposed to sent the original invoices.

Yes there will be some form of control cable as well that will go directly, and not through the isolator.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2021/mar/21/rising-from-the-rubble-london-pub-rebuilt-brick-by-brick-after-bulldozing One in the eye for developers hoping to knock it down, pay the fine then redevelop the site.

Put an advert on your local freecycle or gumtree and offer it free for collection as firewood. I hate to see useful fire wood just burned on site. Let "customers" pick over it and only burn what nobody will take.

Your flashing is probably okay, it is probably hidden soakers under the tiles

The "screed" idea is often known as a pug mix, It's a sand / cement screed laid dry. It has little strength, it is there as a heat distribution medium. Use structural floor boards that are supported on the battens not actually supported by the screed. Don't forget to size the joists to allow for the extra dead load of the screed.

I did not contact anybody about the covenant. I just sought planing permission and then building regulations from the council. It was only some years later when selling that the issue arose and the solicitor put the indemnity policy in place to satisfy the buyer.

The covenant is separate to planning permission, It just so happens that it is "the council" in both cases that need to give permission. We had the same issue extending an ex council semi detached house, I naively thought getting planning permission had satisfied the covenant, but when we later sold that house it turned out it had not. That was solved by buying an indemnity policy to cover the covenant issue.

You need a different salesman.

The only real way is to cut a hole in the plasterboard ceiling to have a proper look and then put a small loft hatch in to close the hole. If any work needs doing the hatch will need to be big enough to at least get your head and shoulders through, though there probably won't be enough room to actually climb up there.

I tried a new source of multitool blades, these ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10Pcs-Universal-Oscillating-Saw-Blade-34mm-Multi-Tool-Blades-Wood-Metal-Cutter/383890454134?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=652230171936&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 £11.37 for 10 blades They fit my Parkside (Lidl) multitool and seem to be lasting well.

We just had an old scrap pine interior door, with just a bolt and hasp and staple with padlock on the outside. Police do take some break ins seriously. During our frame erection, the builders had 2 of their vans broken into outside their houses one night and a load of power tools stolen. CID came to our site later that morning to examine the vans. I was under strict instructions not to touch any part of their vans or any of their tools until CID had done their stuff.

Relying only on plasterboard and skim for air tightness is a very bad idea. It is a "normal" occurance for me when I unscrew a light switch or a socket I am greetid with a howling gale of icy cold air. Air tightness should be a planned well detailed layer before plasterboard and finishes go on. And don't rely on solid insulation fitted between joists or rafters being a tight fit. Experience from what I see suggests in a great many cases it is anything but well fitted. This is where a self builder can make a difference, by ensuring the detail is done properly and carefully.

What makes you think a heat pump heating DHW only in the summer will only have a COP of 1? Most of us use our heat pumps all year including DHW only in the summer. When the air is warmer it should run at a better COP than when doing the same in sub zero winter temperatures.

The above comments are the reason NOBODY wants to volunteer for the job of replacing a failed macerator. And the only people that think they are a good idea are those that know or think they can find such a volunteer so they never have to touch them.

The drop in temperature from flow to return occurs because the heat input coil has transferred the heat into the stored hot water. It is not a function of heat losses in the short or long flow and return pipes. An ASHP usually has a temperature probe inserted in a pocket in the HW tank. If this senses the tank is up to the set temperature the ASHP will stop heating it. Typically the flow temperature would be about 5 degrees above the tank temperature. I suspect your salesman might not be the best system designer.