ProDave

Kerosene currently about 47p per L. So divide by 10.25 and multiply by 0.4 gives 1.83 That does not sound right? surely you mean divide by 0.4? that would give 11.46 Hold on, that is still cheaper than 18p per kWh mains electricity.

Kerosene is looking good at the moment? Hardly any increase in that. When will a Kerosene powered generator be cheaper than mains electricity?

Does anyone know the new "post increase" rates for the GO tariff?

Octopus don't do the silly unsustainable low prices so are more likely to survive. They have a good reputation for customer service and I like the way you can manage your account yourself so that is why I stay with them.

The fan and the light are completely separate and can be wired however you like them. The lamp I believe is an LED MR16 type. If the supplied lamp and transformer is not dimmable you can swap them for ones that are.

What's the last 2 pictures? are they going to cast a lintel in place.

Buy and fit a standard shower light.fan https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-in-line-led-shower-light-fan-kit-bright-chrome-100mm/45818 They always seem to come as a kit, so you will have a spare in line fan that you won't use.

You are not supposed to jack the door up with an air bag. Loosen the screws shown then turn (3) to raise / lower the door. Remember to loosen the screws on ALL the hinges and adjust (3) on all the hinges the same amount.

I would go with this suggestion. You will need some ptfe tape and a short length of 15mm pipe that could be the existing grey bit. Or just get your new friendly decent plumber to call in next time he is in the area, he will sort it in no time hopefully for not much coin.

Fix one of those Capri's

Yes you will need to determine which of the brown wires is permanent L. Then you will need to connect N to the switch (lucky this is loop at switch wiring)

Very different in that view to what I had imagined. On the layout drawing I took the right hand light blue run of units to be a solid wall of units. Now I see tthat (left wall in this render) is actually open and what i saw on the plan is a row of units above the doorway.

I would concur with that. We have sworn we will not do another self build after this one, but that is not so much because of the actual building process, but the buying and in particular the selling process that is so awful.

That would FAIL building regs in Scotland, not enough "circulation space" Do the English regs not have a similar requirement? We have a 1400 gap from main units to Island (to meet the circulation space requirement) and might reduce it to 1200 later on, but I would not want less than 1200. I will stick my neck on the block and say this kitchen is not big enough for an island.

Allowing for other electricity uses, it is a rare day when my 300L UVC does not have the spare capacity to absorb all that my 4kWp solar PV produces.

As long as you keep renewing the building warrant you stay with meeting the regs that were in force when the warrant was issued. I have extended 3 times without issue. as I say they ask for an update where you are with the build and as long as they can see progress I don't think there should be an issue.

That was my very old 3 ton Komatsu digger, i would guess 1980's. It was a chance ebay purchase (cheeky low bid to test the market and I won it) It came from Grantown, not far from you I guess. It was old and very worn with a lot of play in all the joints but it worked if not always very gracefully. After using it for 3 years and finished all the heavy work I sold it for exactly what I paid for it, still working. Once we had put the tank in me and SWMBO spent the rest of that day and most of the next day mixing barrowing and pouring. We were well worn out by the finish. That old mixer still works, it's so tatty looking nobody would nick it. I saw it in someones garden where I was working once and asked if he wanted to sell it. No he said but you can borrow it. So I borrowed it and when I had finished that job I contacted him to arrange to take it back. "Oh no I don't want it back"

A GSHP will heat your hot water nicely in an unvented cylinder. Perhaps for your occupancy you need 2 cylinders, one small one for when it is just you, and a larger one when you have guests and you just select that when you know they are coming. It is a shame you don't like solar PV because it makes so much sense for an all electric house where it will reduce your electricity bills.

Each time you extend the building warrant you have to give a summary of where you are and what is left to do. There is someone near me who has bought a plot and been living on it for several years now in a yurt. I don't see any sign of even starting to build a house yet so I doubt he has even applied for a building warrant.

Yes, here it is being lowered into the hole: It stands upright on those 3 legs just on the ground, then you start pouring the concrete in.

The "conical" shaped ones like the conder and the Bio Pure don't need much of a flat bottom to the hole, and don't need you to pour a flat base. We lowered our Conder in, then started pouring the concrete, filling the tank with water as we went. Nobody had to go down the hole.

If you go beyond 3 years you stump up £100 for building control to extend the building warrant for a time period that they seem free to decide.

Yes and typical caravan system. Hot and cold water piping in red and blue "garden hose" There are 2 systems commonly in use. One is "pressurised" where there is a pressure switch and the pump runs until a certain pressure is reached then shuts off. that system as soon as you turn a tap on the pressure drops and the pump starts to maintain flow. I assume there is a small expansion vessel somewhere if nothing else to prevent short cycling of the pump. The other system which my caravan has is all the taps have a switch that closes when you open the tap to turn on the pump. I have not seen any expansion vessel in mine so assume the HW cylinder expansion just vents back through the pump into the water tank. On a boat or in a caravan it's a bit like wiring, rigid stuff does not stand up well to vibration so multi strand flex for wiring and a lot of "hose" used for water. On a typical boat like this with an engine that tank will be a "calorifier" which heats the water from the diesel engine cooling water. On a caravan it's more likely to be a gas / electric heater directly heating the small tank.

There is a lot to be said for that. I have sold 5 properties in my time, and only ONE was quick and easy to sell (and that was more to do with lucky circumstances rather than a buoyant market)