ProDave

this is more my thing and what I am playing at the moment (no that is not me and no I am not that good) It saves all that bother with chords, which I am not very good at (short fat fingers but every guitar teacher says there is no such thing)

So you are not actually widening the "hallway" you just want to widen the door opening at the end, that is not going to have a door fitted, to be the same width as the rest of the hall?

I will stick to my 6 string. It's hard enough learning something that is standard. Trying to learn something different with less information about would be even harder. The real advantage of 4 strings to me would be wider string spacing, I often think I would like to try a bass. Having said that I do prefer the electric to the acoustic.. My sailing partner plays a Uke, something I have never tried.

Get all your mates around and grease their palms. 4 good strong blokes should be able to lift that. You want it to arrive un damaged.

I am intrigued by this kids guitar converted to 4 string. Isn't that a Ukulele? I assume as a minimum it would have needed a new bridge and nut to convert to 4 strings?

Here are the HETAS details of the heat shield requirements https://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/installationsWithShieldingOfCombustibleWall90degree45degree.pdf

That looks very much like our burn that can come up in spate very quickly. As long as it doesn't come over the top. So you now need to look for some metal sheet to make the heat shields. If you go single wall flue to the top the heat shields will need to go all the way up. If you swap to twin wall just above the stove, the heat shields won't need to go much above the stove. You need to look at availability of sheet metal and the cost vs the cost of twin wall flue and work out the best compromise.

The term "self build" encompasses anything from the dedicated skilled man that does absolutely everything themself, to someone that buys a plot and pays a builder to build a house ready to move into. And everything in between. A good compromise for a first time self builder is to pay a builder to construct a "wind and watertight" shell, so from the outside it will look like a complete house with roof, windows, doors etc but will be unfinished inside. You can then get your hands dirty yourself or pay individual tradesmen to come and do the internal work. The No 1 hurdle is always finding a suitable plot which depending where you are might be easy or might be close to impossible.

Thanks. That must be new as I am sure you used to be tied in to the original supplier of the tank.

I always thought with a bulk tank, only the tank owner would fill it and service it. Has that market opened up now so any supplier can service any bulk tank? Or were both offering to install their own tank and supply at those prices?

Timber frames have varied and evolved over the years. 1970's timber frame would be 4" frame and lucky to have anything other than 1" of rockwool in the frame and 3/8" non foil plasterboard straight onto the frame. Often found to be rotten and perished in bathrooms and kitchens. A 1980's-90's would still be a 4" frame but more likely fully filled with rockwool and with or without a VCL but usually foil backed plasterboard. About early 2000's most were increasing frame size to 6" and full fill with rockwool. Use of VCL still seemed optional but foil backed PB was normal. Only now are proper taped air tight layers and proper service voids sometimes being used, usually by self builders. Prior to service voids, the frame will have been drilled for services usually with no regard to sealing holes so there will be holes opening to the loft and under floor void. My pet hate on a windy day in winter is you unscrew a switch or socked and get an icy cold blast of air coming out of the hole.

Here is the original thread about it

Right, that level of change to me is weeeeeeeell outside the scope of the architect and is in the realms of "interior decoration" that you choose once the building is up and you get a real feeling for the space and how you want to dress it. That would never register for me as a major change and just assumed that is what you both chose to do with the space. Clearly it is what YOU chose to do with the space without discussion?

Okay, go on, someone tell me WHAT changed between the render and the actual, because all I see is trivial detail changes. I MUST be missing the obvious real change.

We can't discuss this properly without details of WHAT changed? I recall early on, a conversation with SWMBO went along the lines of "if I can't design the kitchen then YOU do ALL the cooking. Case closed.

If this is ONLY for a wash hand basin, would a small 3Kw instant water heater very close to the basin not make sense? It only heats what is used. For a larger use like a shower, a dead leg is not such an issue. I turn the shower on and then in the time it takes to undress the hot water has arrived.

Hi and welcome There is a heat loss spreadsheet made by @Jeremy Harris on here that many including me have used to model our heating needs and it proved very accurate. This is something you can do yourself. As to actual performance, that is largely down to detailing, it is possible to fit insulation so badly it might as well not be there if you don't care or don't know what you are doing. Where are you building and what construction method?

First hurdle is what is the planning use of this half acre? Is it agricultural? a paddock? or does it actually have planning use as a garden? A safer bet might be a portable building like a caravan or shepherds hut, easier to move is there are objections.

Any form of jacuzi bath needs power, so you would need to provision a power cable from under the bath to an outside wall where you will have a fuses switched connection unit to feed it. Underneath or alongside the light switch might be a good place. Usually any pump is accommodated under the bath. Building warrant only needs to know approximate room layout to confirm all activity spaces are allowed for. Changing the layout later is not a big deal. If you fit a massive bath don't forget it may need a bigger room so you still have all your activity spaces. Wet room is definitely possible and personally I love them, again you don't need to mention it on the warrant. No problem fitting a cheap basic bath and changing it later, any cable for a jacuzi bath would just remain in place under the bath, unused, until you upgrade later.

It would be a shame if after you moved out the old building caught fire.......

My understanding as the gas price has shot up so much because of the "dash for gas" as a short term measure to replace coal power stations, gas is a little less polluting. Oil does not seem linked to the gas price, just set by supply and demand. If someone realises they could fuel oil fired power stations cheaper than gas......... If Ukraine kicks off shortly as the media are now hyping up, then I would not want to be a gas user. Supply shortages is likely to be the issue as well as price. Thank god we only have a few weeks left of this winter.

We have no charge for discharging into our burn. We did need a permit from SEPA to do so. We pay for mains water, that is all.

This has got me thinking. Our ASHP uses 1500kWh of electricity each year heating the house. so guess a COP of 3 that's 4500kWh of heat. With Kerosene at 10.35kWh per litre, that's 434 litres per year. Round that up to 500 litres for boiler efficiency. Our old house had a 2500L tank. So I would only have to buy fuel every 5 years and that would give a LOT of scope for watching the price and buying when it's cheap.

We wanted hinged shower screens so when not in use they can fold flat against the wall so leave the space open. They are really only there to stop water splashing on the wall unit that is used for towel storage. the only options seemed to be buy some made to measure glass and some hinges and make your own, or we chose cheap off the shelf shower screens intended to go over a bath. So they are not very tall. I set them 100mm above the floor and the top is head height. So some water will go over and some will go under, but that does not matter, the whole room is a tanked wet room. What goes under or over does not go very far and there is not very much of it, and you just sweep it down the drain with a squeegee when done.

You definitely need a chamber at change of direction for foul drains, but this is rainwater? Our BC was completely disinterested in rainwater drains and we have multiple joints and branches without chambers.