ProDave

Use the old terminal junction box that was on top of the old hood to join the cables. Just leave the earth terminated going nowhere. You just have to work out how to detach the old junction box from the top of the old cooker hood, it looks like it might be riveted there?

Kitchen window was deliberately positioned for the view.

Why use a 30mm former, 22mm formers are readily available?

I think "swapped contents" is the issue. Much less likely as the 2 pans are not directly back to back. When I needed a corner branch I gone one off the shelf from someone on ebay. Looking again there are plenty there but some at silly prices.

How do they define a "dormer"? I hate the things, difficult to detail correctly, and you lose headroom. So this was my solution instead, "gable ends" One at the front ant 2 at the back. Full unrestricted headroom. much easier to detail in all respects compared to a traditional dormer. See if your planners would accept something like that?

So they are reporting that less than one house plot worth of land has been converted into development land when it should not have been? Talk about storm in a tea cup. Or has someone got their units wrong? P.S a lot easier to view with adblock, you just get big empty spaces where the adverts should be.

You can, if you shop hard enough get brown, blue, green/yellow SWA. but much more common is brown, black, grey, which are the three L colours used for 3 phase. What annoys me more is 3 core and earth is usually sold as brown, black, grey. I have NEVER come across 3 core and earth used for three phase L. It is usually used for 2 way lighting where the colours make some sense or for L, switched L and N to a fan where it does not make sense.

Assuming you have more than one window from the same supplier, do the others work as expected? Compare "good" ones with this one, are any bits missing like wedges on either side of the frame to centre the casement in the frame as it closes?

Without a doubt I would take the end panel off, lay LVT. put end panel back, trimmed a little off the top to match. Why make it difficult?

Do the long run as DC cable, with the inverter very much closer to the meter box. As you rightly say, voltage drop (rise) on the ac side will lead to the inverter tripping. Voltage drop on the dc side will just be a tiny % of power lost as the inverter is very flexible about input voltages.

More reasons I won't join in with this smart meter nonsense.

Well not really. Most people want the best figure they can get. Unless the OP told him before he started "I don't want any lower than 5.0" how would he know to do other than what he has been instructed to do?

The mechanic dumped it all to atmosphere because it was in the way to do the timing belt. What he should have done is told me to go to a proper Fgas engineer to have it degassed with the gas recovered. but that would have cost me money, his solution did not......

Insulate the pipes between well, so the distant manifold stands a chance of getting the same temperature water as the first.

Put inlet and exhaust vents on the same wall, and on the downwind wall for your prevailing wind. In my case they are both on the east facing wall. Make the house as air tight as you can, you are obviously intending to if fitting mvhr. Then i don't think you will have a problem. Practical experience says on a windy day in an air tight house you can open 1 window or 1 door and you won't feel a draught entering or leaving. Not as exposed as you as not on top of a hill, but I am in a windy part of the country and no problems encountered.

If you are considering solar thermal (a one trick pony) you obviously are happy with something on the roof. So fit solar PV. It will power anything that is using electricity in the house and if there is more generation than use, it is easy to dump the surplus to water heating. Most of us that do that have very low water heating costs in the summer, and lower electricity bills. An ASHP then makes better sense as it is yet another easy way to use some of that self generated solar PV. My ASHP was an ebay purchase for under £1K but you can get new for about £3K upwards. No harder to fit, in fact I would say easier to fit that an oil boiler, no storage tank, no servicing and no volatile cost fuel. While I agree oil may be cheaper now, it is a very volatile price, so may not always be so.

You succeeded in one sentence to say why it is a good idea to change, where that entire page linked to failed to make the case other than "it's made in the EU"

It's a sales pitch to sell EU made heat pumps with EU sourced gasses. I see nothing technical in there to say WHY we should change. Heat pumps only let their F gas out if there is a leak. How often does that happen? any statistics? If they need a repair that requires degassing that is supposed to be done by an F gas engineer who will recover the gas, not vent it. I suspect most of the F gas emissions to atmosphere are illegal improper disposal of end of life refrigerators? Another whopping "fail" is car air conditioning. I was somewhat horrified when a previous car went for a timing belt change, something it needed every 5 years. When I got it back "oh your aircon will need re gassing". To get to the front of the engine to do the timing belt the water radiator and the aircon heat exchanger needed to come out so they just vented the gas.

Like others this is counter intuitive. 4 is a poor air test, I would be very disappointed and wanting to improve it. but if you want a cold draughty inefficient house that is your call. Get the air tester back, and instruct him NOT to tape up the vents, or peel off just enough of the tape he has put on to get the air test just over 5 and job done. If I was the BCO I would not accept you making the air test worse. I would expect you to be making the property better. I think all it needs is the fans swapping for the sort that have a low speed constant trickle running. Replacing those is likely going to cost less than another air test, so just do it.

Safe zones would work if people knew about them. Just about the only people I have ever met that know about them are electricians. Most other trades I meet including plumbers and joiners don't know about them. And because the general public don't know about them, you get the home owner who wants to hang a picture on the wall, but it is above a socket, so he gets the tape measure out to ensure the nail he puts in the wall lines up exactly with the middle of the socket lower down............

Then it is going to be a much bigger job to even find somewhere to connect the new socket, or some rewiring of what is there.

I used to work not far from Didcot next to the railway, and the coal waggons were a regular sight.

Thanks. Lets us know which solution you go with. And pictures of course.

A bathroom is not an apartment, it is an inner room. If the bathroom links to an apartment with a means of escape window (e.g. an en-suite), or directly to e.g the stairs then out, no escape window needed.

I thought sound insulation was a building regs requirement.