ProDave

What calculation software did you use? Was it Jeremy's spreadsheet on this forum? I have broadly similar insulation values to you but only a 150 square metre house, and my max heat loss is about 2200W with inside at 20 degrees and outside at -10

And even cheaper on ebay, about 1/3 the price of the TLC one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304535119744?epid=2126650938&hash=item46e7b52780:g:ia4AAOSw--1WsLjd&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0PlzfJK3EGu1A7MKTmZi3ClYgxUNmTzmyMyhqVIF6XpKLCTEwFf1cNyfluedyBbpRShjBV15cm%2Fodn1ae%2Bxigz07WcGCpwrKDkCDkeqxg6udFRvPgnfY1jTqw466oF%2BcZeW0aaXt4mwnjDzafXMgP70AQzKtB2wX6BWWh5ZXbIZH%2F6Tejt7lB%2Be9JGED6L4FNg6Gk69Tw6Eicy4PVvMvOEihNjIXuxXskceqEQBgh4FWp2ropfQFdhv35X1lfbWqz5je%2BCJbIAHiD1yy6g9aOGs%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUODmy6zSYg

Am I missing something here. It is not just a foundation for a wall. That is easy. Just dig until you hit hard undisturbed ground, no calculation will tell you what you will find when you dig. Bit this is not any old wall, it is a retaining wall, if I am reading it right to keep your driveway from sliding down into the piggery? If so I have not seen discussion of the height of what it has to retain and the forces trying to overturn the retaining wall.

And we achieve that with no heating upstairs. If we had heating upstairs and set the upstairs thermostat to 18C it would never turn on. If bedroom gets too hot we open a window to let heat out.

We never have open windows with a light on after dark. If we need ventilation at night, we open the windows as we go to bed and turn the lights off.

Anyone who claims a heat pump is cheaper to run than a gas boiler is a brave man. My view is an ASHP running with a COP of 3 and electricity at 3 times the cost per kWh of gas, the ASHP could equal the cost of heating with gas. So for a property that does not have gas, it is a way to equal the heating costs if you had gas available. An ASHP will be better for the environment eventually as more electricity is generated by renewable means. Re the heat loss from the building. How technical are you? How much do you know about the building design and proposed insulation (if's all buried in the SAP report if you have the full report not just the summary) Then have a look at this.

I would just say you need a surveyor. When the housing officer comes out, stress the swelled bulging floor in your bathroom, and the neighbours damp in his floor and stress that is where they need to be looking, taking the floor up if necessary to find out why it is swelling and fix it. Just pointing out various patches of mould on a wall is likely to be brushed off as you need to turn the heating up, open a window etc, so don't dwell too much on that, concentrate on why is the bathroom floor swelling up to the point the door is sticking, there must be something wrong there.

There is a lot talked about damp and mould, and in a lot of cases it can be poor lifestyle choices by the occupiers. but I don't think that is the case here. As you are on the ground floor, and another ground floor tenant has a similar issue, I would be wanting to lift a floor board in or near your bathroom to have a look. Given your floor is swelling it would not surprise me to find there is a burst pipe, water under the floor and joists soaked. What it needs is the landlord to take interest and have a proper look. Just how you achieve that is the question, and sadly I don't know the answer. Who is the landlord? Council? Private? Do you know if there are any floorboards anywhere that have previously been lifted for previous work? If so you might even be able to lift one yourself to have a look.

Are you ground or upper floor? Are you a tenant or do you own (leasehold?) your flat?

To "install" an ASHP broadly the same as installing a gas or oil system boiler, perhaps a little more if the installer has not done many so more reading of the installation manual needed. Whether you can find a plumber and electrician to do that is another matter. To have the whole lot supplied and installed as a package probably a lot more, but whatever you choose you will be having the same UFH the same bathrooms etc so are you just trying to compare the cost of a gas or oil boiler with the cost of an ASHP?

Who is / has designed the house? What are you hoping to achieve, just to pass building regs or the lowest energy most efficient build you can? Has a proper heat loss calculation been done? If nothing else, upstairs will need less heat than downstairs so you could fir the upstairs loops to a wider pipe spacing.

I don't know. Mine came from the next door neighbour changing all the original wooden doors and windows for UPVC. I guess i was lucky that the front door came out with the frame intact. I also have a pair of French doors that came out with the frame chopped up. One day they will be a pair of doors on a shed, but when I do that I will have to make the frame for them.

For a start you DO NOT NEED UFH ON A LANDING. I shouted that because any UFH designer that says you do, knows nothing about real buildings and UFH. Our first self build, standard building regs 20 years ago, nothing special, had UFH on the landing, because the designer said so. That circuit NEVER turned on. Plenty of heat coming up the stairs from below. Even the downstairs hall rarely came on because there was so little external wall to leak heat, and plenty of heat from other downstairs rooms. Our present house, finished 2 years ago now, to better than building regs insulation and air tightness, has no UFH loop in the hall and only short loops in the bathroom and en-suite. No other heating at all upstairs, it gets all the heat it needs from downstairs. Unless of course you particularly want a very hot bedroom.

Normally if done properly there is no need to vent the small pipe from the sink / basin, it goes into the 110mm stack pipe which is vented or sometimes just vented with an AAV. You only fit a local small AAV if you find the trap is getting sucked dry.

I had to google to find that TBOE means Top, Bottom, Opposite Ends. Are you trying to fit the TRV on the top end is that the issue?

To be clear are you building, or moving into a ready build new build? S and P traps do the same thing, that's a matter of style, if on show a P trap often looks better or even a bottle trap.

Nothing wrong with making your own boxing in for a concealed cistern, easy if it's a floor standing pan. If it's a wall hung pan. you are better off as above buying a proper metal frame for it. BUT whatever you do, something in the cistern WILL go wrong one day, so you need access to it for servicing, so some form of access hatch is essential.

A decent make of front door will come with a matching frame incorporating necessary seals etc. We fitted a second hand (free) Sweedoor like this one https://www.doorswindowsstairs.co.uk/product/swedoor-ashby-external-door-with-grid/ as the pedestrian door to our garage, where air tightness and insulation was not as important as a main door to the house.

His work of genius luck was getting a plot of land in London for £42K

I was expecting you to keep it in the original black plastic enclosure used on the old cooker hood so it was enclosed. I was rather making the assumption you had the lid for that box.

You would be lucky to get a rod 1 metre down here.

The 3 core cable comes in just as it did originally with all 3 cores terminated one into each terminal. Then only the 2 cores of the new cable to the new hood are connected so nothing coming out of the earth terminal.

Why not a big accumulator on the mains input?

When I built my first house, 20 years ago, I approached two architects. Both quoted fees based on a percentage of construction costs, and to add insult, both estimated construction cost at nearly double what it actually cost (I could not have afforded it if it really cost what they estimated) Neither would budge on those fees. Neither got my business. It had the effect of making me never ever want to try and do business with an architect ever again.

So what did they do to the consumer unit or the power feed to it, to isolate it from the grid in the event of a power cut?