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Everything posted by ProDave
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Usually when swapping off the THCT system to "normal" E7 the total control CU gets left disconnected, so only the normal house circuits and off peak circuits work. This is because there are only 2 metered outputs on E7 and they have 3 connections, and the meter monkeys won't join 2 together, that is a job for an electrician. How to sort that out depends a lot on what consumer units you have. It was common at the time to use a custom Wylex fuse box split into 3 internally with 3 separate main switches for the 3 different systems. So solutions range from re configuring that back to a 2 system box, or just joining 2 of the feeds together outside the CU with a Henley block. Post a picture of your consumer unit(s) and we can advise. Off peak does not make the sense it used to, the rates on offer just don't seem to make it attractive.
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The issue seems mostly getting storage heaters to turn on and off in time with the cheap rate periods. And of course in the case of THTC just fitting a smart meter, timed or not, would usually leave the always on cheap rate supply disconnected.
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The whole radio teleswitch replacement is a fiasco. And this is directly related to that. THTC in essence is just an normal E10 install with a switched off peak supply, but then with the addition of a second meter that is permanently on metering a heating supply. It was a creation to try and improve on the main drawbacks of the simple off peak tariffs. Used properly, in @Crofter case the A2A heating could have been connected to the heating circuit and got the cheap rate 24/7. None of the off peak supplies or THTC had remote meter reading, so could have been kept working by replacing the radio teleswitch with any other form of timer. Prior to the radio teleswitch system a spring reserve machanical Sangmo Weston time switch used to be used. I hear so many horror stories of trying to get E7 working on a smart meter that it would put me off trying and just go for a single rate tariff, even of you have to choose one of the off peak rates first to achieve that.
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I assume there is on access to the loft space from the living room side? That would answer a lot of questions. But as already said this is basically an outside wall with cold loft air one side and your warm room air the other. It clearly lacks insulation and / detailing allowing your heat to escape from this room into the cold loft space. Correcting it, once you know what is wrong is going to be intrusive.
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I think the mistake here was asking. You should have just built it. Now they have you in your sights. In our little road there is one timber shelter for a camper van and one block built garage, both built in positions that were outside permitted development. Neither sought planning and neither has had any enforcement action. I assume you are just intending a timber structure bolted to the concrete slab?
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Insufficient flow rate for Samsung ashp
ProDave replied to Simon Brooke's topic in Underfloor Heating
I had a similar issue with my LG heat pump originally. The biggest issue was mine just had a flow switch and I did not know how much short of the required flow rate I was. So to solve that I bough an in line flow meter. It turned out I was not much sort of the required flow rate. In my case the LG had a pump inside it (does your Samsung?) so I added another pump as well in my plant room meaning both pumps were in series and that gave me enough extra flow to get over the line. -
For those finding their address is still not on the PAF, have a look here and see if you can find your house listed: https://www.findmyaddress.co.uk/search If you can find it there you will find it's UPRN, Unique Property Reference Number. How I wish that was widely used instead of the PAF. If your address is not on the PAF it WILL NOT stop post being delivered. The only time it proves an issue is if you try and buy something on line and the supplier only offers "enter your postcode and select your house" Any sensible merchant that allows the option of enter address manually and you will have no problem.
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Clippa plate or similar between joist ufh
ProDave replied to Selfbuildsarah's topic in Underfloor Heating
Whatever you do, only fit heating in actual rooms. DO NOT waste effort fitting on a landing or room with no separation from the landing, it WILL NOT be needed. We have to keep the bedroom door shut tight to keep the bedroom down to the temperature swmbo likes about 17 degrees and we have no heating in there. This week has been mild so the bedroom window has been opened at times to keep the temperature down. -
Options/recommendations for replacing failed Zappi
ProDave replied to NSS's topic in Electrics - Other
How old is it (what is the warranty period) Replacing it with the same is the classic case of doing the same thing but hoping for a different result (the replacement lasts longer) So I would not do that. I would be asking this forum and others what alternative make has a proven record of lasting longer. The fact they are offering you a refurb unit means they have been collecting dead ones and repairing them. Personally I would be taking it apart to find out what has failed. -
With even fairly simple extensions like the post above being refused, I have to ask, are you in a conservation area?
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If you really want the double fronted, make the left hand half above the garage set back a little with a stepped roof line, making it look right from the start like a subservient extension on the side (probably like has been approved for the house opposite)
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Looking at that aerial view I see another detached house on the other side of the road. Was that also built after the original houses on the side garden? How does that one opposite compare in size and bulk to what you are proposing? It looks to me only slightly wider than the original semi detached houses with a single storey garage. If you submitted something like that, and it was still refused, you would have very good grounds to appeal. Just because you have used a planning consultant to get this far, an appeal can be done yourself for virtually no cost if you are just appealing a refused application.
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Is this a load bearing wall?
ProDave replied to WhiskyInTheJar's topic in New House & Self Build Design
Ask the agent you want to see in the loft. go armed with a step ladder and a camera and post the pictures of the findings.- 19 replies
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Am I at liberty to run 1 mm^2 5-core SY cable myself for 24V LED strips?
ProDave replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Lighting
But I read the question that @Alan Ambrose wants to run the dc cables for lighting. Presumably therefore the ac wiring to the switch and to the transformer already exists. So this is not a new circuit. So he can do most of the dc wiring he wants without notification, as long as it is not not in a special location. Which is why in my original reply I said most is not notifiable. -
Am I at liberty to run 1 mm^2 5-core SY cable myself for 24V LED strips?
ProDave replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Lighting
Part P does not in most cases stop you running 240V lighting cables, so why do you think it would stop you running low voltage ones? Don't skimp on cable size. for a given power of lighting lower voltage = higher current. Many people think they can use bell wire for low voltage wiring. -
Yes typical lack of joined up thinking. We need wind farms to meet the move to renewables, so it simply should not be that they are prohibited. I have just been talking to a friend of mine who happens to be a councilor. It appears by a similar state of stupidity, that councils here are still approving wind farm developments, in spite of this document saying they are not needed and will not be connected, because the Scottish National planning framework still says they are and has not been updated. He told me of one councilor being ejected from a planning meeting because he suggested no more should be approved in Scotland.
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It has been a gripe of mine for some time that there is hardly a range of hills in Scotland without at least one wind farm, yet all the main hills in S England, Cotswolds, Chilterns, Downs (all of them) etc etc are devoid of any wind farms. I am all for sharing, but while Scotland has been the soft target, enough is enough and the people of the shires need to realise converting to wind power means you WILL see turbines spinning on your hills, you WILL see extra pylons matching across your landscape to connect them. It can't all happen, out of sight, of no consequence, in that distant outpost of the UK that you have vaguely heard about called "Scotland"
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Rainwater pooling next to external wall
ProDave replied to LLL's topic in Rainwater, Guttering & SuDS
So what is that branch pipe coming round the corner then? Your other pipe further along is definitely foul waste with no inspection chamber or rodding access. -
Why no more? Because we have enough already, and the grid can't connect more and get all that power down south. So they have decided sensibly, lets build more down near where most of the power is used. Drive around Scotland and it is hard to find anywhere you can't see a wind farm. Drive around England and it is often hard to find anywhere you can see a wind farm.
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The report itself seems okay, it is the lousy "report it to Joe public" news article that is of the dumbed down nature. As I say, it DOES highlight Scotland has been the target for so much wind farm, and now there is a document confirming we have more than our target, so please no more. Time for England and Wales to have their share if they want the lights down there to stay on. I will be forwarding this to everyone I know .
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Rainwater pooling next to external wall
ProDave replied to LLL's topic in Rainwater, Guttering & SuDS
I suspect it is all related to that drain. That looks like cast iron, and for the plumber to bash a hole in it like that with no sensible means of covering it is just plain bad, I would not be using the same plumber again. I think that whole corner around the drain pipe needs digging up, a proper look at what is going on there. I bet you will find all sorts of problems which is why the drain blocked in the first place. I suspect that whole stack will need replacing and a proper inspection chamber put in there for it to connect to. Then all the paving can be put back and levelled. Please don't ignore it, this is your human waste going down there via a pipe now with a big hole just above ground level. -
Is this a load bearing wall?
ProDave replied to WhiskyInTheJar's topic in New House & Self Build Design
I think it is time for a look in the roof space as already suggested. To my untrained eye I would say it has front and rear add on extensions with the existing sloped roof added on and continued down. So I still think the yellow wall in your sketch is the original wall where the roof finished before it was extended. You should be able to sell by the thickness of that wall inside the house. I bet it is a thick double skin wall showing it was once the outside wall.- 19 replies
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Thanks. I had a look at that, not the easiest site to navigate, but it confirmed what I have thought for a long time, Scotland has enough onshore wind generation already. I pulled this paragraph: "Onshore Wind What’s the situation? Across some parts of Great Britain, there’s a shortfall in onshore wind power for 2035, meaning not enough wind projects are planned to meet the targets. England and Wales especially need more wind projects, while Scotland is already above its target. What happens next? In the next round of applications to connect to the grid, only wind projects in Scotland that have special protections (like planning permission) will be allowed to move forward. England and Wales will be open for new “ready” wind projects to help fill the gap. "
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"They have then used a company called brick doctor to match some other bricks. The above picture is actually it repaired. " If you mean the picture I have re posted is the repair? If so the brickwork looks good, BUT before you agree to sign it off as complete, something needs doing to fill the huge gap between the (pretend) stone cill and the bottom of the UPVC bay window.
