ProDave

It was described as Carrara Marble and 30mm thick

That was never discussed as an option, they instantly said they would supply a replacement. There has been no mention of returning the wrong one. If that turns out to be the case, then when we make our posh shed, it just might have a bar made with the spare shelf

The first link would probably do, but we would need 2 of them. A bit pricey for something so basic looking. The second link looks a lot nicer but even more expensive. But it does give me ideas how to just go and buy some wood and make my own. When building our first house we considered Caithness stone for the hearth. Got a similar reaction to you and a quite ridiculous price to cut a piece to size. In that house we used ceramic tiles on the concrete hearth. This stone for the shelves (and previously for the kitchen worktops and stove hearth) came from Stone Source in Inverness.

The stone wasn't cheap, too big to be a cheap offcut deal. but SWMBO wanted stone so she got stone. the compromise is the two bottom shelves being wood. Wanted good solid brackets that can take the weight without bending and bought these ones https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/644302988/heavy-duty-shelf-bracket-industrial?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=metal+shelf+brackets&ref=sr_gallery-1-13&frs=1&organic_search_click=1 They come as plain bare steel and had 2 coats of black hammerite. With this being a small room with a big cost, it is definitely the most expensive bit of the house in £ per square metre.

This is progressing reassuringly slowly. Mainly due to taking a long time to make up our minds just how to proceed. But today was a milestone, we collected the stone shelves and lifted them straight into place. Unfortunately the bottom one was supplied wrong, it should be a little deeper. They are re making that one. The bottom 2 shelves will be painted wood. Until the correct bottom shelf is fitted I can't put the door on or else it would be in the way. Now we have another design problem. The wall opposite the main shelf wall, we want some shallow shelves, big enough for tins and jars, so shelves big enough for a standard baked bean tin, with a lip to stop them getting knocked off. Preferably something ready made as a shelf unit. But i can't find anything. Looking for something like this which you can buy from some kitchen suppliers as a shelf unit fitted to the back of a kitchen cabinet door But I can only find those as an option to buy with a kitchen unit. I just want something similar to screw to a plain flat wall. any ideas?

The obvious place for the tv and comfy sofas is the living room at the front. The obvious space for the dining table is the bit room at the back with the kitchen. From personal preference you WANT doors between the living room and the kitchen diner. I like a pair of glass panel doors or maybe a bifold set. There will be times you regret not being able to separate the kitchen from the living room without them, unless you like sitting down for a quiet night witht he hum of the fridge and dishwasher spoiling your peace.

I am about to fit a (smaller but still quite heavy) bifold door to my pantry. Quite a lot of people that reviewed the door I have bought have ditched the top and bottom pin arrangement as being lousy and not well built, in favour of just hanging the end door on normal hinges mounted into the door frame as any other door hinge. Is that an option for you to consider?

And what does it look like if you move the polythene from in between the two different types of insulation to inside the PUR?

Tenants are not renowned for being helpful. Out last BTL when the tenant moved out, I found the bathroom ceiling bowed with a small hole in it. It was a leak from the roof. It must have been leaking for some time. It would have been nice if the tenant had told us, it would have been an easier repair if I had been told earlier.

How long ago was the completion certificate issued?

If it really is only just passing under the extreme corner I would probably say nothing, stop worrying and carry on. It would be easy to divert at a later date if you ever did find something had blocked.

Perhaps a sketch of the site layout showing where you think the pipe goes under your footings and where it would continue to in both directions if it maintained a straight line.

So we have a plan to fix the planet, but even now, nobody knows if the plan we have will work, will it stop warming, will it cause the planet to cool, etc. So in spite of being certain it is man made CO2 that is causing the problem they don't have a scoobie if stopping all man made CO2 will make any difference or not. No wonder some people cannot take this seriously.

If it's below the bottom of the trench, how do you know it is there?

I'll give my reply and let the proper plumbers come in a minute to agree or disagree. It will work, BUT it is not right. The fitting your HEP adaptor is intended to connect to looks almost the same, but the edge of threaded pipe it fits to has a pretty square edge. Your fitting intended for a copper pipe with an olive has the end machined out to match the olive so presents just a very thin edge of pipe.

It helps working in the trade. I had worked with the builders we used for the frame construction and erection before so I knew their standard of work and what they were like to work with. Same with the joiner we used for a few of the harder details that I did not feel up to myself, I chose the one joiner out of several I know, that I thought was good enough for the job.

Start by doing a map search on the land registry and see who owns it if indeed it is registered. Also download the title deeds for your neighbours properties (£3 fee) and see if they own it.

Do come and post pictures when you have done that. I will be surprised of you find a 13A socket that will actually fit two 10mm cables.

I would get rid of both those tall corner units, just removing one destroys the symetry. I did think they would be hard to access storage.

We have 1.2 metres between the island and the main units, I would not want to go less. We chose granite on the main units and Oak on the island with nicely rounded corners and round corner units to make it more user friendly. Where is the dishwasher going? Don't forget when that is open it will all but block access past it with an island there So you need to get from hob to sink to dishwasher all with the dishwasher open. And do you really need 4 ovens?

How are the rafters fixed to the ridge board? I don't see any brackets. Normally with a roof hung from a ridge beam, which is what that is with the steel beam, there is some form of substantial bracket or strap to stop the rafters sliding down away from the ridge beam. The lack of that fixing would worry me more. What do the drawings say? and why were the builders building without the detailed drawings?

One of those heaters is certainly worth a try. It will certainly be silent in operation. Interesting about your dry eyes. Both SWMBO and PD Junior are complaining about dry eyes and blaming our house for being too dry. According to my (uncalibrated) hygrometer, we are about 55% RH inside at the moment. I don't know if that is considered "dry" or not? Outside RH currently about 90%

A screwless faceplate still fixes to the back box with standard screws, and then a decorative cover clips on to cover the lot hiding the screws. Some of the Varilight stuff is a king of low voltage master / slave unit.

We have no issues with stoves or similar. But just over the neighbours boundary is his discharge from his septic tank. On one of those dead still nights the "pong" from his ST hangs around and gets drawn in by the mvhr and the air in the house starts to smell stale. If we notice that I turn the mvhr off until the wind picks up a bit. Clearly the filters are doing nothing to stop that sort of pong.

Odd. When I got site insurance I was not asked anything about the build method.