ProDave

You need a slide hammer nail puller. e.g. https://www.kawstore.co.uk/products/kawtool/hand-tools/builders-tools/nail-pullers/priory-150-nail-puller-integral-slide-hammer You use the inbuilt slide hammer to drive the jaws down into the floorboard either side of the nail then push it sideways that tightens the jaws on the nail and pulls it out with a lot less damage than just pulling the board up with the nails still in place. Mine was my dads and is probably as old as me, but looks identical to that one linked above.

No different to a standard old school pendant light, the one cable provides power and support.

It's normal to shorten, cut, strip, and re terminate the drop cables. What is the issue? just use the original connector. You will have to use lever wago's if you choose that as they are almost all stranded cables.

Search the site for my threads on external Baumit render problems and you might change your mind. They were totally disinterested in helping to find out what the problem was. I could not recommend a company that won't help at all when their product fails.

the pump is in the right place. That type works by the pump circulating water around the UFH pipes and the thermal valve opening when it needs to to let more hot water into the loops when needed, and when the water in the loops reaches the right temperature it shuts off and the water just circulates until it cools down and then it opens to let more hot water in. The sensor for it that looks to be currently on the bottom manifold, I would move it to the top manifold and to the right between the flow meters and the pump. Are the actuators opening properly when required? and is the motorised valve opening?

Do A2A heat pumps allow external controls like room thermostats? Perhaps a proper Air to Water heat pump might be better? It will do your DHW and heating but you will need radiators or UFH. But at least the HP will have provision for external controls. In this situation I would say the best would be UFH with an individual room thermostat in every room. Then those room thermostats can be replaced with remote programmable ones. I installed a system like that at the local community hall, a lot of the time the hall sits empty so they can turn the heating down, and when there is a booking, they can remotely turn the heating up for that. I forget which remote system it is but I can find out. It was not one of the popular ones like hive or Nest.

Why do you want remote control? For idiot proof controls, I just integrated a standard central heating programmer as the main control, shunning the over complicated timer functions built into the ASHP. Operating our heating is just the same as operating a central heating system with a gas boiler that most people are familliar with. One function our programmer has is a "holiday mode" where you can turn the heating off for a number of days if you go away, and set it to be back on by the time you get home. About the only use I can think for remote control. If you are letting, all I would add is room thermostats. Either fit ones with remote sensors and the actual controller (with the dial) out of reach, or even fit placebo thermostats (for show only) I speak from experience of running a B&B and finding the room thermostat at 30 degrees, the boiler working it's socks off and the bedroom window wide open to keep it cool. Some people do some daft things (I am struggling to be polite here) when they are not paying the bills.

Your "cheap " rate seems to be 24p per kWh but the penalty is 37p at other times. the standard Octopus single variable rate is 27.26p So you are saving barely 3p per kWh for your cheap rate but paying 10p extra at other times. Go to a single rate, fit your A2A heating, and some solar PV just for self usage. Do as much of your heating and big loads like WM etc in the daytime and dump any surplus PV not already used to water heating via an immersion and a solar PV diverter. No need for export or any export payment.

This was what I used, an old office fan, not very powerful With that sucking air out of the house, I could go around looking for leaks. The house was pretty air tight, the telling thing, when the fan had been on for a couple of minutes, go and open a window and there was a big whoosh of air entering back into the depressurised house.

So what results are you getiing?

I would go for the dropped curb and crossover. That will probably be cheaper than a piling rig for just a few piles.

It will, but you will be chisseling out plaster, fitting the wiring and back boxes than patching up the plaster. So much easier with dry lining.

STOP right there. 25mm battens into the blockwork and 12.5mm plasterboard. THEN your idea to retro fit the wiring and feed up to each socket will work.

Probably not a very helpful suggestion, but that's why I like a 45 degree roof pitch, everything is so much easier. But a more useful suggestion I made a big square out of 3 bits of timber forming a 3, 4 , 5 triangle. you could make a similar jig but calculated to give you a 42 degree angle.

Both in same. Less chance of a loose connection breaking the earth continuity (which usually goes un noticed because everything "works")

So 660kWh in 2 weeks is 47kWh per day, or an average of almost 2kW continuous use all the time. That sounds like the HP is running at full power about half the time, so it's probably putting an average of 6kW of heat into the house all the time.

9000kWh per year, assuming you heat the house for 6 months of the year, suggests an average of 375kWh per week in the heating season, so that would be 750kWh in 2 weeks. So your 660kWh at almost the coldest spell you will get sounds what you would expect. The fact a 4 bed new build needs a 12kW ASHP and they estimate the annual heating usage of 9000kWh shows the gapbetween developer houses and self builds. I use 1400kWh heatimg my 3 bedroom house in a year and another 1000kWh for hot water with a 5kW ASHP.

Last night was the first day the really cold weather reached us, -6 last night. Most of the week it has barely dipped below 0. And none of this "heavy" snow has reached us yet, at least not at our level. The tops of the hills are nice and white though. Heat pump here still just running on it's normal daytime times, off at night.

I am not convinced these "credit" market things do anything more than create some non productive jobs to move some money and bits of paper around a system so some companies can claim to be smug and "met targets" The fact we seem to be "solving" the problem with schemes like this gives me little hope that we will ever actually solve the real problem.

Most modern TF construction, the inner frame supports the roof and the outer brick / block or other is decorative / rain screen.

I was getting the Landy ready for an outing once, and a mouse ran out from the instrument pod. I have not found any damage. yet.

Sorry that looks like the office canteen where I used to work. I just can't disassociate that ceiling with "office"

Once you have repaired it, wrap it in copper tape. That's what we did in the previous house to stop mice chewing the dishwasher hose. (new house is mouse proof)

Be careful. That age it could be asbestos. To be sure before doing any more get a bit tested.

Does it have to be all one building? A collection of smaller ones for different uses might make more sense, e.g one set up as a spray booth with ventilation.