ProDave

Call me particular, but things like rice like that, are solid waste as far as I am concerned. That is what sink strainer baskets are for, so the solid wast goes in the dustbin. That's me trying to be kind to me treatment plant. I also try to avoid cooking oil going down the plughole. I will send the consultancy invoice by email.

No, that says to me, the water is only slowly trickling IN to the saniflo and the pump comes on when it gets enough to pump for a bit. I would start dismantling the sink trap and pipework between the trap and the saniflo. I would have thought if the saniflo was full and only pumping out very slowly, it would keep on pumping.

So if the sink is full and draining slowly, is the motor inside the saniflo running all that time to try and pump it up a presumably now blocked pipe?

I am a more practical sort of chap. I didn't do any pressure drop calculations, I just connected it all, then spend a few hours with the borrowed anemometer measuring flow rates at each room terminal, and adjusting the terminals and adjusting fan speeds until I got flow rates that met the BR required rates. In practice after that, I reduced the fan speeds as it was slightly audible. Several years on no ill effects from running at slightly lower than BR required rates. I gather passive house required rates are lower.

That has just told anybody with land in the green belt, that they want to build on, to not manage it and let it become "dilapidated, neglected scrubland"

And 2 hours to fix the leaking pipe when you "discover" an unknown pipe that is touching the bottom of the board. When boarding my new build with P5 chipboard, at each end of each room, I left a half board wide strip, that has part of the tongue planed off and cut into shorter strips that gives an access trap anywhere you want at each end of the room. It should be possible for example then to fish cables to anywhere in the room. The access traps are screwed down with no glue.

There is a lot of that stuff up here, there is even a bridge over the river made from it. Galvanised steel walkways that probably originated on an oil rig or a ship. the pontoons at our harbour are made from it as well. TIP: if you need to kneel on it to tie mooring lines, take a bit of wood with you, otherwise it is like kneeling on a cheese grater.

Assuming that is another garage just below yours in the picture, the user of that might need to drive partly onto the bit in front of your garage to turn in or out. So a right of way is needed for them.

The lightweight blocks would be more prone to water damage and splitting when frozen. What will be on the outside? I would want the high density blocks, apart from anything else easier to fix things like shelves to and bomb proof even if left bare. Whatever you do you certainly don't want't to mix them.

At last renewal the company I had used had "withdrawn from the market" I went to Adrian Flux and they found me a policy without problem.

You need to work out if your builder is deliberately trying to use the wrong blocks, or he doesn't know the difference.

"suitable for use in most homes" is a bold statement for a 5kW ASHP.

If you applied that rule here, almost no houses would ever be built. Our road and the main road it connects to has no footpath, and in any event it is 3 miles to the nearest bus stop. They will be deciding we are not allowed parking spaces next if you can only build a house and access it via public transport.

If nobody uses it, why bother? Put a fence with an awkward to open (but not impossible) gate to deter anyone from trying.

What are you doing with this floor? If you are about to properly insulate it and replace it, then you are probably not wanting to ever take the floor up again, so for the cost of some new cable, it would be madness to leave old cable in place, even if it looks okay.

Slow progress. The first of the 2 stud walls built with my unusual angled corner posts. I can't make the door opening and therefore build the second wall until I know the size of the door. It is stated as 762mm wide, but one review says it is only 750mm wide. It does not actually matter which, but it is no good building a 762mm wide gap to then find the door is only 750mm wide. So the door arrived today. Well I now know the door is in fact about 752mm wide. The bad news is door No 1 arrived damaged. I have reported the damage to the supplier and door No 2 is now on it's way. More waiting around. Good job I am not in a hurry.

In law it has to be someone competent. Are you? do you know how to isolate it? What if they don't fit an isolating switch on the output of the meter? What tests do you propose to confirm it is all correct and safe?

I would also add, that you should make it clear to your local planners that you believe your new garage will be a better replacement to the old one, and if it is refused by them you WILL appeal.

Then let them refuse it and appeal. My first house I wanted to build a garage (there was none) The planners wanted me to stick it tucked away behind the house taking up the best bit of the back garden, I wanted it alongside the house on a corner plot. Planners refused it, I appealed and won the appeal and the inspectors report praised the siting of the garage.

So it's right by a door. You need to look at the detail of that door threshold, I bet water is getting in under that somehow.

Mine sits on a timber batten (TF house) that is not as wide as the aluminium cill, so outside the decking boards slide under, inside the floor tiles slide under.

What I am failing to understand is the height of the EV can be lower just by teeing off the pipe between the control group and the cylinder water inlet boss a bit lower down. That does NOT affect the positioning of the control group or the tundish or any other pipeowrk. So I ask again from any of the professional plumbers on here, what harm does it do if you tee off the cold pipe lower down and mount the EV alongside the tank? Everything else being equal, EV mounted upright with connection at bottom etc.

So it's a variation on an exhaust air heat pump? I would avoid personally, because I don't like an "all eggs in one basket" solution. If it breaks down, you have to fix it or replace the lot. What guarantees of future serviceability are there? I have heard storied on EAHP's not being repairable. With a separate ASHP, hot water cylinder, UFH and MVHR there is less to replace if one major part fails and cannot be repaired.

Do you have a link to the system you are thinking of? It sounds like some form of combined mvhr / warm air heating system?

Sorry you mentioned "patio" and my brain read patio door aka sliding door. Yes their French doors should be level access. On the outside leave a recess under the door opening so the slabs can slide snugly under the aluminium threshold, (in our case decking boards)