ProDave

Mini digger. Not only is it useful for digging it is also handy for moving stuff and can be used as a small crane within it's limits for licking stuff up. Without doubt the best purchase.

Then the joist detail of PS1 does not look right to me. the end hanging on the hanger off the steel I would expect the solid timber between top and bottom chord to go tight to the end not recessed as the plans show it. And agree with others it is the infill timber on the steel joist that is wrong. I am also very uneasy about a hanger that does not wrap over the top of the timber it is hanging from.

Mine tried to apply a 90 metre visibility splay which would be hard to meet, until I pointed out they had approved another build in the same road with only 60 metre visibility, so they agreed to that. It does seem to be a random number generation scheme,

So the council planner for visibility splays used a different stopping distance to that in the Highway Code?

I would halt all work by the guy until a solution is agreed. And make it clear not just the other houses but THIS one to be corrected. I am no structural engineer but I would not be happy with the entire weight of a posi joist and all that it is supported being supported on a total of 22 nails passing through a bit of plywood before they barely reach what they are supposed to be nailing into. And isn't the top chord of the posi joist supposed to extend further and rest on the top of the steel? There might be more wrong here than the joiners poor excuse at bodging it, the joists might be made wrong for the application. I would be wanting the designer, SE, Architect or whoever did the design to look at it and for him to specify the resolution before any more work on these joists proceeds.

This is a non habitable structure and not going to be subject to inspection. So reading the above, the joint can be assumed to be no more than 75% of the native timber strength. In due course (i.e. not straight away) I will start sketching some possible joist plans, and we will see if anyone here is able to calculate how close I am to the maximum strength of the joists. Thinking about reinforcing the joint, a full steel plate would be inconvenient as I will probably be attaching other joists to the side of these. But those other joists would be smaller. I have some lengths of thick 2" wide steel straps. Working on the basis that the top of the joint will be in compression and the bottom will be in tension, it would seem logical that I bolt a 2" steel strap across both sides of the joist at the bottom through bolted with stud and nuts.

A quick google tells me the stopping distance of a car at 20mph is 14 metres. So if you are able to see 25 metres I would argue you have plenty of visibility. At last we have found a way where these new 20mph limits may actually help you.

It has to be some form of water ingress either in the wall cavity or from the plumbing in the shop. The mouldy wall is not exactly an outside wall so I would not expect that wall to be cold.

I worry about their integrity when wet. As soon as I can after this current wet spell, I want to empty the storage under the static caravan (mostly ladders) and try and get these under there in dry storage until I use them. Then in use, I will treat them with something and they should be mostly dry under the box profile roofing.

My thought is the twist release mechanism you are hoping for is unlikely to be standard between manufacturers so even if you could release it, would you be able to find a replacement that would fit?

What's stopping you unscrewing the whole thing from under the cistern?

Or do as I am doing with my pantry, use screws that I KNOW penetrate less than the thickness of the flooring used

I got these from my neighbour, who in turn got them from an office unit they dismantled. They were spanning the ceiling in that. 10" by 3" timber joists 6 metres long. Quite old, but were used indoors and dry (until removed) Each has a scarf (I think that is the name) joint at about mid point. No markings found yet so say any grading. 7 I would like to use them for my car port that I would like to have a 6 metre span. That's why these 6 metre joists caught my attention. The car port will be 6 metres square, roofed in box profile steel sheet. I want to keep the span open, the side joining the garage can have as much support from the garage as it needs. the opposite side can have multiple support posts as can the back. Initial thinking is to use these 4 big joists to span side to side, which would put them at 1.5 metre centres, and then span front to back with something smaller. Thoughts please? Particularly about those joints, would I be wise bridging those with something like a steel plate bolted on?

I would not rely on the standard plastic cabinet feet to secure a peninsular unit like that. Okay when the units are along and fixed to a wall, the feet just take the weight. A joiner I know and respect never uses the standard plastic feet, instead he makes a rigid "box" for the cabinets to sit on, far more stable.

Then dry the stump, split it as much as possible with an axe. then burn it in the stove. Then retrieve the wire from the grate and put it in the bin.

If you know anyone in the catering trade, the likes of Booker and other food wholesalers sell things like that in bulk. We used to have a card when we ran the B&B

I've not seen wooden treads and painted risers before, but it looks good.

Do some tests first, don't just buy random parts and swap them.

I would recess the drain pipe into the wall to avoid this or route it differently. What is the wall construction? Spacing the units out means deeper worktops and wider gable end panels on the end of all the units.

Our neighbour discharges a septic tank into the burn just the other side of our fence, and the MVHR inlet is on the wall facing that, but at least 10 metres away. On a completely still morning in summer it can get a bit pongy there and the smell can get drawn in. If I notice it, I turn off the mvhr until a bit of wind builds to clear the air. The only filters I have are the built in filters either side of the heat exchange core.

Which room, upstairs or down? Who built the house, you or mass market developer?

Most have a power switch, cold, medium or hot. That selects how many heating elements are in use. My guess would be either the switch has burned out or one element has burned out and it is running on one element only. You might be able to diagnose it of you have any electrical knowledge otherwise replace it.

I am more interested in why it is "not suitable for Scotland"? My Mitsubishi Enthalpy MVHR is working just fine.

"Sorry this episode is not available" Shame we did not hear about this when it was on live, it does not seem to be available on catchup.

I thought you were going to tell us about a new source of satellite tv with a "certain type of content"