Tom

possibly investigate worktop fabricators?: https://www.stainlesssteelworktopsuk.co.uk/made-to-measure-copper-worktops-sinks-and-drainers/ stick it on it's end, add a few hinges, job done!

I was planning on doing similar birch ply lining for our reveals but not with a shadow gap, instead an extra strip of ply around the edge that protrudes to make a double thickness that would cover the plasterboard edge, if you follow me.

Thanks Craig, we're not looking at alu clad as too chunky. Will look at solarlux though, as per Thorfun above too. Fyi, looks like seiger are rebadged Cortizo.

*thin frame Are you not down with glazing salesman speak?!

Thanks both. Internorm is an option I believe Eric (we're going for their windows) but the composite frames are quite chunky compared to the aluminium profiles of the others. Thanks for the heads up re ODC Thorfun. Reynaers don't seem to be replying to my emails so I might check them out. Poole isn't a million miles from here either.

Hi all - does anyone have any recommendations for triple glazed sliders? We need narrow sightlines, so are looking for an aluminium system, and we need a 4m run and 6m run meeting at a moving corner. So far I have come across Sieger and Reynaers that will do 3G, and Ultraline and Schuco that are 2G. Any suggestions would be very welcome!

In 110mm?

Thanks Dave, how big/high should the vent pipe be?

So, I'm in the process of making an outside toilet for the builders to use, this I want to plumb in to the waste already connected to the caravan (the new toilet will go right next to the caravan toilet, except outside). At the moment the caravan toilet comes down in to a P-trap and then shoots off to the treatment plant. There is no soil stack and other than some occasional gurgling, it seems to work OK like this. I want to replace this P-trap with a T, to allow me to add the new outside loo. I'm worried that flushing that will cause problems - eg suck the water out of the trap in the caravan toilet. Should I be worried? If so, do I need to install an AAV? Thanks all

I just added a sentence to our planning permission along the lines of: we also seek permission to site a static caravan next to the build to live in during construction. No one batted an eyelid so if you are at that stage worth doing.

I don't, I plan to cross that bridge when it comes to it! Just sticks in the craw having to pay £1,800 alone for some guy to come and "inspect" when building control are doing that anyway.

True, but most mainstream lenders will accept an Architect's Certificate (or similar).

Hmmm, seems contrary to what they told me - and I asked the question twice to be absolutely sure. They require insurance for the build as it progresses but were adamant (in writing!) that I wouldn't need a warranty. I just don't want to shell out 3.5k for something that I will likely never be able to claim on anyway.

Ecology told me two days ago they don't require a warranty

Sounds like a shitty (sic) job, but I say take out and replace, won't cost much other than your time. Invest in a good respirator though

I think looking at "heat" or the temperature of the air is oversimplifying how we find our environment comfortable. I'm reminded of that recent GD episode where the chap tried to build a completely passive house, insulating the earth around it to act as a thermal store, he said that even though the temperature of the air was lower, the warmer walls radiated heat and the actual comfort of the space was equivalent. The same could be extrapolated to the effect of windows on the heated space - a warmer triple glazed one radiating heat (or at least more than a double glazed one). Likewise the draughts/convection currents that would happen against a colder surface.

I'm planning on using tung oil - you?

We're planning on using this - reuse the cladding boards already on one if the barns and char them ourselves. The end result, if diy, is going to be quite user-dependent I suppose, and definitely less forgiving than paint. But get it right and I think the charred wood is supposed to be far longer lasting.

tank connector?? https://www.diy.com/departments/floplast-push-fit-straight-waste-tank-connector-dia-40mm/152672_BQ.prd

Thanks all. I'll make sure the sparks is happy with everything.

static

So we're moving our consumer unit etc out of one of the barns that we're dismantling ready for our build, and at the same time will put in a new run of armoured cable to supply the caravan. I have an electrician coming to connect it all up, but I will be putting the cable in and want to get all the sockets etc that I need. I'm trying to find the right sort of hook-up socket for the caravan that I can fix to a wooden stake outside. Would this do?: https://www.toolstation.com/industrial-socket-ip67/p31599 Ideally I'd like a weather proof socket next to it to so that the builders can plug in stuff that they might need, but can't find an all-in-one unit. Is IP67 sufficient? Thanks all.

Right, a big thankyou to all that have given advice, big thumbs up to ProDave and Onoff. I managed to isolate the fault by splitting the ring in to smaller sections and have bypassed this with a new length of twin and earth. After discussion with Onoff looks like I could have just left it as is and in essence used the split ring main as two radial circuits, but would have needed a few new MCB's so that the rating of the wire didn't exceed the rating of the existing MCB. Anyway, running the wire was a simpler solution in the end, so all working again now. Thanks everyone. To anyone in a similar situation and testing for a neutral/earth fault - remove both ends of a ring main from the MCB when testing the RCD...

...but of course all that risk is factored in to any fixed price contract (to an extent), so you will be paying for it either way. Though with a fixed price you will DEFINITELY be paying for it...

Good point Conor. I think splitting it up into chunks as you say would be far more sensible. I will have another think - we're meeting the builder on-site tomorrow to discuss.