Tom

I've approached Wunda to give me a quote, but they are saying my proposed floor make up isn't possible. We plan to have an insulated slab, UFH pipes fixed directly to the top of the slab, then 75mm screed over the top of this. From what I've read this doesn't seem completely nuts, but they are saying they can't recommend fixing the pipes diectly to the slab. Is there any reason why we can't do what we plan?

I guess because the ICF forms are not waterproof, and the poured concrete in the middle is continuous with the foundations, no damp proof membrane?

We're mixing the first few courses by hand (albeit in a tub mixer) because of various things.

We've started to pour our below-ground ICF (Nudura) and the builder is using a martar waterproofer, on the container it says not to use in structural concrete or concrete containing rebar - both of which ours is. Builder says "everyone does it, mate" - but, as ever, I'm worrying. Should I be?

This sort of thing really gets my hackles up - and you know for sure the builders will be shaking their heads and raising their eyebrows at each other, simply because you are insisting on getting it done correctly. You can also be equally sure they won't be seen for dust after the build when your floor starts creaking... OP, get it redone properly - yes, perhaps they might cut corners elsewhere to recoup the cost, but equally they will pay more attention when you next explain how you want something done.

Thanks Gus, some good things to look in to there. The only thing that has changed recently is we had to replace the pump, might have a chat with the people who did this and see if they have any ideas.

Yep, it's being tested tomorrow ?

Thanks both. It tastes metallic, like rust, but is clear - hence I'm guessing (from my web research) that it's ferrous iron. It goes rust coloured when allowed to oxidise eg - leave a glass of it overnight. I remember reading JSH's blog about his water treatment shenanigans a few years ago, and praying at the time I wouldn't have to go through the same faff! I guess I'm just wondering what experience people might have of boreholes over time - do they change like this - then go back to how they were? Could I be right in thinking the rainfall a few months ago would have affected it like this?

So as far as I'm aware there have been no problems with the water from the borehole since it was put in years ago, and certainly when we moved to site in February and started drinking it with gay abandon it was fine (we also had it tested - all good without any treatment needed). In the last few weeks however it has started to taste of iron and has started to leave rust stains in the shower, basin etc. Cosmic. It comes out of the tap clear but goes red when oxidises, so I guess it's dissolved/ferrous iron. I'm not bothered about the rust staining while we're in the caravan, and have switched to bottled water for drinking, but does anyone have experience of this? Can we expect it to go back to normal at some stage? I guess this might be due to the ridiculous wet weather we had in April/May-ish. If it has changed to this I guess there is every chance it will change back?

I've just used 16mm rebar for our footings, 18mm hole for the resin. All 200 of them.

Can I ask what is impressive about it? What made you pick that one above, say, an ecodan (apart from Mitsubishi's questionable environmental record, obviously)?

Going a bit cross-eyed looking at Ecodan ASHPs on the internet. I've seen an 8.5kW unit for £2,700 ex-VAT which seems less than others I have found online, but does anyone have any recommendations for where to buy from?

Aspect Windows in Exeter and Devonshire Windows in Newton Abbot - both good to deal with tbh.

We approached two local distributors of Internorm: one came back at 22k and the other 32k. We pushed the former harder and agreed at a shade over 20k in the end. The latter then said they would match it if it fell through! Goes to show how much of a mark-up some of these firms expect to make. Pays to shop around...

Thanks all, good to know my calcs are in the right ballpark.

Thanks both, v helpful. So about 5.5kW all in. Does that sound in the right sort of ballpark for a 280m2 single story, ICF build with 3g glazing and MVHR? All depends on the detail I suppose, airtightness etc. Guess I would go for the 8.5kW Ecodan to be on the safe side.

I'm trying to work out my ASHP size requirement too, but unlike nod I've been planning one from the start so have no excuses for not knowing the detail here, especially after reading this forum almost daily for the last 3 years...?. Anywho, I've put my figures into Jeremey's spreadsheet and it comes out with the highest monthly energy input (January) for the average OAT at 1807kWh. Where do I go from here? Thank you in advance

I guess it's down to how zealous the planners are - and each LA seems to take a slightly different view. You aren't allowed to add anything structural - and certainly they could argue that if you have to rebuild a wall to make it structurally sound then it isn't possible to be "converted" within the bounds of Part Q.

Not an option if a Part Q conversion unfortunately - though might depend on how quickly you can get the walls back up again before planning take an interest! Have you investigated getting full planning now that you have the Part Q?

We recently pulled the trigger on our windows, had whittled the field down to Internorm and Nordan: the latter was nowhere near Internorm in terms of quality. Also, where as Internorm are a true aluminium/timber hybrid, it seemed to us that Nordan were timber windows with a bit of aluminium stuck on the outside. The quotes for both were the same sort of ballpark, so an easy choice in the end.

Thanks all, and thanks Dave. I moved the enrgiser's earth lead to it's own spike and all seems fine now. No more clicking and the children's hair is no longer standing on end. I'll have a look at getting some of those ferrite things - IIRC back in the day they used to be attached to most new electronic gizmos but I think have fizzled out now? I always thought they were snake oil, a bit like those magnetic water softeners.

OK, further observation last night: the iMAC clicks even when it is switched off AND even if the wall socket is switched off (single pole I believe). It stops if you unplug it. So, I'm thinking rsather than a power spike or EM interference thing it must be to do with the earth?

Thanks all for the suggestions. Will investigate with a radio...

Here's a weird one. I have an electric fence energiser plugged in to the caravan's ring main (albeit via a spur extension running outside), it is earthed directly on to the caravan's earth rod. When it is switched on and happily ticking away, our iMac (also plugged in to the ringmain) starts ticking too (in time with the energiser - about 60bpm). The computer works fine and seems otherwise unaffected. Why so? I guess I'll move the earth to a dedicated rod when I get back this eve to see if that solves it, but just curious as to why it should be doing this. Any ideas?

Hi everyone - we've only just poured our foundations, but as ever I'm looking ahead to see what else I can start worrying about. I'm scratching my head over the roof build-up as spec'd by the architect. There is a large service void in the "living wing" due to the presence of some 356mm deep steels forming a portal frame. We don't have this in the rest if the build, as per the lower of the two diagrams - I guess MVHR ducts would be run down inbetween the timber joists here? Does the make up make sense? I guess it's a cold roof looking at the position if the vapour barrier? I guess what I'm asking is does this look reasonable or are there simpler/more efficient ways to skin this particular cat? E.g. use taped pir on the underside instead of vapour membrane/counterbattens/50mm rockwool? Thanks in advance all