MikeGrahamT21

Yeah that’s right, took a bit of time but it looks pretty good

My idea is a form of EWI

I mitred my boards rather than using trims which worked fine, saved using the trims

If your having to do wood cladding, how about using a 200mm Larsen truss/I beam, then pack in between with rock wool insulation. It won’t be as effective at stopping cold bridging but you will have a solid surface to work with for the cladding. just another idea to throw into the mix

Not for this bit no, to be honest I just used this stuff to make a couple of steps out of the bifolds on to patio as it was too big of a step down. Can take some photos tho if you want?

Yep indeed it is that size, just had a look, gone up to £18 a length now. I’ve had it two years now and it’s spot on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Composite-Decking-Anti-Slip-EBONY-BLACK-COLOUR-/265060989079?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 theyve a few different colours to choose from and all the fittings, should save you a small fortune!

I got mine off eBay, £17 a length a couple of years back, lengths were quite long. Can dig the seller out if you can’t find it, just let me know

let me know your current build up of the structure and when I’m on computer tomorrow I’ll do a u value and moisture calculation. assuming builder has said 75mm for window sills, normally with EWI if you aren’t moving the windows out you use under sills to extend them.

What was the reason for choosing only 50mm?

I don't have underfloor heating, but do use a manifold for my radiators, there is a tiny tiny sound comes from it when in use, just the water moving through it, but I think you would have to listen for it to be able to hear it. Mine is situated in the hallway and is approx 2m from my head where I sleep, and i don't hear a thing.

Knowing BC, they probably don't even know the meaning of a cold bridge!

Yeah I was the same. In fact I used all the bits I had left to make some bug hotels and ended up throwing barely anything away.

You can only use products which are BBA approved for the purpose, think you'll see that Celotex GA4000 isn't suitable for full or nearly full cavity fill. Specialist products exist, Xtratherm CT/PIR and there is a Kingspan product which is also approved for this purpose (can't remember product), but they have special surface coatings, foil isn't suitable for the coating as it can easily be pierced. If you want something easy and cheap, brick outer > 100 cavity with 35 or 40 wool full fill > whatever 7N block > insulated plasterboard

I did in mine, and it looks good, and hasn't been affected by weather. Its the Wood Based Plastic stuff.

The problem with PIR is you need to physically fix it with mechanical fixings, which will give thermal bridging. Your better off with a 30mm cement tile board such as marmox which can be fixed using tile adhesive alone (though check with manufacturer to be sure)

To answer question about accuracy, they are accurate to within 1metre, so thats 1metre either way, or 2metre overall, I had a similar issue with my neighbour and he backed down once he had that fact

7n concrete blocks ??

youll need to prime the blocks and then use tape which is flexible and has the ability to take plaster. I used the kit from airstop.co.uk which is quite cost effective. don’t worry about any holes outside of this joint between the cavity closer and the blockwork , these will get filled with the basecoat plaster (bonding coat). airtight tape is a specialist product, you won’t find it in screwfix. Someone may be able to suggest another alternative, this was just the approach I used which worked well for sound proofing. as long as the cavity closer is solid, bonding coat will fill any voids and provide a good level of sound reduction.

Best way to find out where the sound is coming from, length of rubber tube, one end in your ear, and the other end hunting for noise. Put a speaker outside the window if you have one, and play so white noise at high volume, and you'll find out where the sound is coming in. Remember, soundproofing has much less of an effect on lower frequencies, so your boy racer sounds like likely still come through more so than a high frequency sound. You've got plenty of gaps there between the cavity closer and the cavity? Ideally the cavity closer should be taped to the blockwork, to actually seal the cavity, and this will probably help massively. Foam looks a little light/non-existant between window and lintel, worth checking that its filled well before the plaster goes on. Ensure the plasterer uses bonding coat and then skim coat, not plasterboard, this will have a much bigger effect on soundproofing

it did cost a small fortune, around £300, and annoyingly I’d forgot about the Zhender modular solution which comes in at same price initially but filter changes are cheaper, so will have to take a hit at some point, the curse of having a bad memory! Lol so many houses round here have stoves, or coal can’t blame any one person really. only having a small bungalow means my flow rates are small anyway, so I wouldn’t say the change of filter has made much impact, though I have yet to test and balance the system, so don’t know true airflow rates. I raised the supply by 2% just in case which also helped to recover more heat from the exhaust, but overall seems same as before filter box, still get the fresh air smell ? at some point I’ll add everything to my blog, but haven’t been too well lately so have just done stuff and not taken any photos

To add my further experience, I started getting smoke ingress, so invested in a Blauberg CleanBox which has reduced it by a good 90%, still can be a faint smell if the smell is full on pungent outside, it has G4 > F8 > Carbon

Yeah thats the ones, you get a kit like this with each toilet to properly fix it: https://www.toolstation.com/rawlplug-wc-or-bidet-side-fixing-kit/p71320 Just don't sit down on it in a hurry if you catch my drift, as the only thing holding it where it is, is the silicone bead to the furniture!

I'm with @Moonshine, had a similar problem myself a long time ago, and only identified as toilet as used to put those Bloo blocks in so the stain was blue. In my case the cistern's weight had caused it to sag a little and pull the supply pipe out of the back of the toilet, blob of expanding foam behind it soon sorted it out! Also as a side note, your toilet pan is missing the screw fixings to hold it to the floor on that photo.

This may sound a bit extreme, but hear me out. Do you actually use your chimney? Or have any intentions of using it? If not, why not remove it completely and tile over the hole. If you are using/planning on using it, then definitely get it all pointed up, and consider changing the cowls.

Taken from the Paul website: MVHR Systems provide controlled ventilation with slow but constant air movements. In contrast, natural ventilation through background ventilators (trickle vents) is a form of uncontrolled ventilation, which fluctuates with wind speeds, temperatures, internal obstructions, such as the opening or closure of internal doors, trickle vents, blinds and curtains. Therefore, it is recommended to install such systems only in properties with relatively good air tightness. We recommend an airtightness of at least 5 m3/(m2*h) at the pressure test (q50), ideally below 3 m3/(m2*h). Air tightness targets should always be set for new built and refurbishment properties. E.g. in a refurbishment project where windows are exchanged and other measures to increase the insulation and air tightness are being undertaken, MVHR system can definitely be a beneficial addition in the aim to increase the energy efficiency and avoid black mould infestation and the proliferation of house dust mites.