MikeGrahamT21

hang on tho, is there anything actually supporting that lintel when the bricks are removed? Looks like it finishes a bit short to me

Those 'purlins' look like 6x2, certainly not what they should be. The purlins in my roof (and I've not measured them) must be at least 14x4's, they're huge, though my span is bigger than this, the fact they're bending shows its not suitable. I would put some cross ties on to each set of rafters, leave those purlins which are already in, and it'll give some extra support. Search 'raised tie roof truss' to show you what i mean. Other than that, if the roof isn't leaking, and it certainly looks dry, I wouldn't worry about it. The next time you have it re-roofed, one section will just get overbattened to raise the height.

Yeah, and B&Q do an even shorter version that fits in the back of most cars, but only 18mm... https://www.diy.com/departments/smooth-osb-3-floorboard-l-1-69m-w-634mm-t-18mm/1696227_BQ.prd Not the cheapest agreed, however i find its got a much superior surface to normal OSB3 TG4's, highly sanded, you can actually skate over it in socks! LOL

It depends what you see on the inside. Removing a gable end would be a huge largely unnecessary job to undertake, most people would just leave it be and start again with trusses the other side. All of the bungalows on my street have this same little ripple where the party walls are between the 2 bungalows. The gaps in the tiles don't look substantial as far as I can tell, and if its been like it for 30 years, again as long as inspection on the inside checks out i'd say it will be fine.

If it lines up with an extension, it'll be where the old gable end wall is

Don't forget OSB3 TG4 which at 18mm will also work with the 600 ctrs, or 22mm if you want something firmer (22 OSB3 will be firmer than 22 chipboard)

My bosch induction hob pulses on the lower settings, I don't see it as a problem from my experience. The power limiting people talk of is another noise, this is a clicking as it turns different rings on for a specific amount of time dependent on power setting

I'm not sure to be honest. Most are multifit up to 240mm, but i'm sure there must be a standard size, there is for most things

Usually these for solid fuel fires: https://www.toolstation.com/high-top-birdguard/p71603

In that case can you not go with a breathable membrane? It will be much better for the structure as a whole.

Would bats get into a flat roof?

The groove is used for the hidden fixings to grab into which runs all the way down both sides of the length

Yeah that’s right, took a bit of time but it looks pretty good

My idea is a form of EWI

I mitred my boards rather than using trims which worked fine, saved using the trims

If your having to do wood cladding, how about using a 200mm Larsen truss/I beam, then pack in between with rock wool insulation. It won’t be as effective at stopping cold bridging but you will have a solid surface to work with for the cladding. just another idea to throw into the mix

Not for this bit no, to be honest I just used this stuff to make a couple of steps out of the bifolds on to patio as it was too big of a step down. Can take some photos tho if you want?

Yep indeed it is that size, just had a look, gone up to £18 a length now. I’ve had it two years now and it’s spot on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Composite-Decking-Anti-Slip-EBONY-BLACK-COLOUR-/265060989079?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 theyve a few different colours to choose from and all the fittings, should save you a small fortune!

I got mine off eBay, £17 a length a couple of years back, lengths were quite long. Can dig the seller out if you can’t find it, just let me know

let me know your current build up of the structure and when I’m on computer tomorrow I’ll do a u value and moisture calculation. assuming builder has said 75mm for window sills, normally with EWI if you aren’t moving the windows out you use under sills to extend them.

What was the reason for choosing only 50mm?

I don't have underfloor heating, but do use a manifold for my radiators, there is a tiny tiny sound comes from it when in use, just the water moving through it, but I think you would have to listen for it to be able to hear it. Mine is situated in the hallway and is approx 2m from my head where I sleep, and i don't hear a thing.

Knowing BC, they probably don't even know the meaning of a cold bridge!

Yeah I was the same. In fact I used all the bits I had left to make some bug hotels and ended up throwing barely anything away.

You can only use products which are BBA approved for the purpose, think you'll see that Celotex GA4000 isn't suitable for full or nearly full cavity fill. Specialist products exist, Xtratherm CT/PIR and there is a Kingspan product which is also approved for this purpose (can't remember product), but they have special surface coatings, foil isn't suitable for the coating as it can easily be pierced. If you want something easy and cheap, brick outer > 100 cavity with 35 or 40 wool full fill > whatever 7N block > insulated plasterboard