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About simon45089

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  1. This is how I did it for a double garage built into the hillside. Concrete lego for the retaining walls, which went up in 5 hours. I needed planning permission and was advised by a structural engineer. Lego cost about 5K. All the best, Simon.
  2. Green system was sold to me as it would be "future proof" should I later decide to go for a low temperature heat source ( I currently dont). I also bought a pipe stapler which I will happily sell on at a greatly reduced price. Used once, one careful owner !
  3. I used Express Screed, based in Ripon. They will travel all over though I was told. Kingspan upstand as I am overlaying the studwork with 50mm more kingspan and that will tie in nicely. A useful tip is that when securing the plastic that goes under your pipes, and also comes up the wall above screed level, it is possible to simply use a few spare pipe staples and poke them through the plastic and into the kingspan upstand to stop it flapping down. Holds much better than tape- my tape anyway ! Simon.
  4. I had 50mm of Ahydrite screed poured last Thursday. 120 sq metres. It was fine to walk on after 24 hours although I waited 48 as per advice of very experienced screed chap. It was a joy to see it being laid, so quick, he took longer to clean up than pour and level the screed. It is dead flat according to my level. I did all stud partitions first, fitted kingspan upstands 50mm higher than the expected finished screed level, and then attached the foam expansion upstand tapes to these as advised. Worked a treat. Simon.
  5. I have now converted 4 barns at the same site, as well as reformed the original farmhouse. I used K11 on all of the properties and I am a fan. None of the buildings had a damp proof course, so Heydi K11 to a metre and a half from the floor stopped any rising damp.(Good to have the guarantee for resale, and you can register yourself as an installer so you can issue the certificate if you are so inclined). I have some west facing elevations which are seriously exposed to the Northumbrian weather, and powerfully wind driven rain on occasion. One year after a storm the rain came through into the farmhouse right through the 500mm walls. (This wall had no stud wall on the internal face so I could see what was going on) There was a distinct line showing the penetration was all above the tanking and that the K11 had prevented all penetrating damp. As a result I tanked the wall full height. In the whole scheme of things its not that expensive a product and is defiantly a DIY job if you strictly follow the instructions. When I first used it 15 years ago following recommendation from a surveyor, the rep told me to do it myself as it was not difficult. He had just sold a batch to a lady who was using it on the inside of her swimming pool ! It works.
  6. I have just had three retaining walls erected at 2.4 metres high using concrete lego blocks. 64 blocks went in in 5 hours. Its fantastic stuff. Not sure of your location but I am very close to the Cumbrian border in Northumberland. The Lego is made nearby. Its obviously not pretty, but can be disguised. A 1200 x 600 x 600 block is £75.00. I got free delivery as local. Simon.
  7. I recently made and installed two box gutters of 7 metres each. I made the box section in ply then lined it a full length aluminium square gutter. The aluminium has no joints, and was formed on site by a man in a van with the necessary folding machine. You can go as long as you like with no joints as the aluminium is on a roll. if it ever leaked- which is not expected, I could in theory draw it out of the ply boxing, and slide in a new one. The only limitation is the size of gutter required in width and height. The former makes them a standard size, around 140mm x 100mm , but as stated length is only limited by the roll of aluminium in the van !
  8. Excellent advice, just what I am looking for. many thanks. Simon.
  9. Hello, I am at the stage on my Barn Conversion project where I am about to install the underfloor heating pipework which will cover 120 Square metres of the ground floor. I have been advised to use two separate manifolds to cover the different zones required. I have chosen the best locations for the manifolds in terms of distance to their relevant zones, one being in Utility/plant room, along with the boiler and cylinder, but the second being in a dedicated kitchen cupboard. I would like advice re whether this will be suitable as I am unsure if there is likely to be any noise from the Manifold as it does its thing. I do not want a noisy manifold in the kitchen area my bedroom is above the kitchen, and living area is next to it, with an open plan aspect. I am likely heating via oil boiler so am aware there will be a necessary heat reduction of the water to get the correct temp for the UFH. Sorry for the waffle, are manifolds noisy ? Many thanks, Simon.
  10. I am so pleased to have found this topic today because I too have been struggling with this issue. I am converting a barn, and have been prepping it having anticipated I will need an ASHP as no gas here. I have 175mm pir in vaulted ceilings, 150mm on the slab and 150mm on the inside face 450mm thick stone walls. I have used what seems like miles of aluminium tape on all joints and I am having underfloor heating pipework going down stairs at 150mm spacings imminently. Today I woke up and wondered if am I making my life overcomplicated by going ASHP, when a simple oil system- which I am familiar with, may well be cheaper to install, easier to find people to fix, and may not even cost much to run as I will be so well insulated I may not need to burn much oil anyway. The work I have done so far would appear to have future proofed the building, so if in 10 or 20 years time ASHP becomes mainstream, cheaper and obviously better all round, then I can just switch my oil boiler( which would fit nicely in my plant room), for an ASHP then. I may just be bottling it as I still dont really understand how an ASHP is going to cheaply warm my big open plan barn on a freezing night when its minus 10 outside in not so sunny Northumberland, but the problem continues that most of the advice given is not impartial when it comes to the merits of ASHP (not on this forum of course). Its a relief that others have the same dilemma, and that I am not just some luddite afraid of this technology ! Any advice gratefully received. Simon.
  11. I have had some other doors and windows done by them since and am also very happy with them. Its a family business and they were receptive to "trade price deal" when I laboured the point that I was a self builder. Good luck. Simon.
  12. Mine passed BC with flying colours. Not sure they actually read them though !
  13. Sorry for the delay Olly. The horizontal beam is 60mmx 60mm. The vertical is the same. It was attached just to stop any minor bowing. The overall span is just under 5 metres. All then clad in aluminium to match the glazing.
  14. Have a look on you tube at a site called "My Home Farm". The guy on there- who I think has contributed to this forum, has done what I plan to do. He is really helpful and has answered queries from me directly. He did an update a year after installation about the efficiency of his ASHP also on you tube. I find real life experiences really useful in my research, especially when the people involved are not trying to sell me anything. Its all a bit of a minefield, but I am seeing a way through I think !
  15. I am planning to site a Mitsubishi ecodan (monobloc) ashp unit 25 metres from the compatible Mitsubishi cylinder which will be in the house, to minimise any intrusive noise and due to the layout of my barn conversion. This week I confirmed with the mitsubishi technical chap that this would be fine and would not affect performance as long as insulated dual pipe was used to connect the ASHP to the cylinder. I have sourced the pipe through a company called Mibec.Its overall diameter is 125mm, with two 32mm pipes within. A 25 metre run with fittings is around £675.00 I think. The guy at Mibec said this is now a common approach and the pipe is very popular. Other manufacturers make it of course. He said heat loss over the 25 meters would be negligible. After reading comments above I hope what I have been told is true! I queried the distance I am going for with the mitsubishi chap and said I thought I read somewhere in my research that the distance should be limited to about 12 metres. i think he said that was the case when the refrigerant was circulated, but now it remains in the ashp so distance is no longer an issue. The only proviso was that you may need an extra pump added to the system if the integral one cant manage on its own but by using 32mm pipes it may be fine. ( The minimum recommended pipe diameter for the ecodan is 28mm).