MikeGrahamT21

+1 for flush, would be a nightmare plastering round the duct

Rechargeable batteries are 1.2V vs 1.5V for non rechargeable, and some things won’t take them, Tado kit is one such thing, none of their stuff accepts it

Looking on their website it says it can be exposed for minimum 3 months, i'm guessing that should read maximum. It'll need rendering in that case. What is their disagreement? Do you not want to go down the PW Dispute route?

Technically it is possible, and called Hybrid Wall Insulation (and can even combine IWI,CWI and EWI, obviously you have no CWI but just to illustrate), but its only ever used if there is a reason for not installing more EWI. If you do use HWI, one side of the insulation will need to be breathable, whether that be inside or out to prevent trapping moisture.

I'm kind of glad July hasn't been too warm, as its enabled me to get more done than i would have otherwise, but the rain has been the main issue, and surprisingly, hedgehogs which have been running all over the front garden, until they mysteriously all died, why i've no idea, felt very privileged having them here. First bit done whilst the hedgehogs were still around, the bit i've been wanting to do the most, around the boiler and gas box, where the worst damage to existing masonry was. June brought boiler service time of the year, so while the plumber was here, he fitted a new longer flue, and also a new gas pipe from the meter to the boiler, to accomodate the thicker walls. Around the flue, I have applied the required dual density rockwool wall board, heavy but really nice to work with, with the remainder done in the usual EPS. Fascia was also installed badly by a contractor many years ago, so i took the bad bits off to replace later on. Fascia repaired, brick slips applied and gas box has been resprayed and refitted. I still need to silicone around here and fit the boiler flue rubber, along with cutting the waste pipe down slightly to fit nice and snug. Rear of extension has been boarded, and mostly rendered, the top part is also fixed now, and just needs a render basecoat on, and brick slips. Front is also complete, and i have since popped a trim above the window to cover the foam, this also needs a bit of silicone when i get a tube. Below the DPC on all sections of EWI, i've got a tub of black render to finish this off, which i'm going to do all at once at the end. Really pleased i've managed to get this far, i've still got to take off 3 rows of tiles front and back of the original bungalow to put some mesh in to stop mice getting in the loft, ensure the insulation is bang on, and vented, replace the latts and felt and tiles back on, a nice autumn job i think when its a bit cooler still, minus the rain!!

Definitely looks a bit off, nothing some extra tile adhesive won’t cure if it’s all being tiled. Also probably best not to check how straight the wall is with a piece of roofing latt! Get a spirit level on it, something which is designed straight

As far as I understand Multi finish has a longer open time, so you get a longer period to work with it, making it ideal for DIY application.

Have a look for a metal recycling centre nearby, they may well even pick them up from you and pay for the weight. If they go in a skip, they'll be recycled anyway, but you won't see any benefit from it money wise. Alternatively, leave them visible to the road side, but don't put on pavement, and i'm sure a scrap man will come along and snap them up. Which ever way you get rid of them, they will be recycled.

All i can say is count your lucky chickens that you've been on a fix through the worst of it all. Not an awful lot you can do about the current prices, aside from reducing your usage.

Also with it being scraped and not sanded, the asbestos in it is unlikely to have broken free, so even lower risk

of course https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7978985/#:~:text=The available data suggest that,order of years to decades.

Chrysotile isn't one to worry over too much, found this in a medical journal online and i'm sure someone on here has said same before: The available data suggest that chrysotile is deposited in the parenchyma but is cleared extremely rapidly, with the vast bulk of fibres removed from human lungs within weeks to months after inhalation Thats not to say it has zero risk, but its the less risky of all asbestos to human health

There is no proof in either direction, this debate has raged for decades... Even at 2/3 bearing loss, a brick would still hold more than 10N, and being a non structural element would never hold that amount. All of the bricks on my bungalow are laid frog down from the 1960's and its still standing, because the brick holds no load aside from itself and its counterparts. Also, the frog isn't there to just save clay (it does, but thats not the main point of having it), its to ensure that the brick gets baked right through without using excess energy or burning the outer parts UP OR DOWN? Some experts say that bricks containing frogs should be laid frog up so that the frog is completely filled with mortar. If the brick is laid frog down, the frog may not be completely filled with mortar. This would render the brick wall face-shell bedded, which gives less wall strength than full mortar bedding. Other experts say brick should be laid with frog down, for two reasons. First, a uniform bed of mortar can be laid more easily on the face that doesn’t contain the frog. Second, if the frog is laid up, any cavities left can hold water, which may cause frost damage and contribute to early brick deterioration. Some believe frog down is stronger, resulting in better cement adhesion and a stronger bond between bricks. Others believe frog up has better strength properties. The load is evenly spread throughout the width of the brick, all the way to its foundations. The debate has raged for generations.

How insulated is the rest of your property? I have a large triple glazed window on the west side of my bungalow and that can bring some heat in during the summer months, there have been times i wish i'd have had solar control glazing.

In my opinion thats incorrect on the frogged bricks, the frog should always go down ot discourage moisture from collecting, regardless whether its filled or not it will collect moisture, which will lead to face failure. The British standards say that the frog should be pointing up and have a full mortar infill, i suspect this is because they are focussed on strength over anything else, the majority of master builders would likely disagree and lay frog down. The idea with the frog is to make a perimeter seal which would partially fill the frog with mortar, and also trap some air. Frogged bricks make it simple to know which way is up and down, as the frog is always pointing down. This way you have efficient use of mortar, no chance of moisture collecting, and also some stationary air which would be slightly insulating.

From what my dad has told me in the past, retired builder, there is an up and a down for a brick, an experienced bricklayer will know the difference, he told me if you get it the wrong way it will hold the water and be more susceptible to blowing in frosty weather, the right way encourages the water to run off. whether that still reigns true today I’m not sure but could explain

63 sheets! I bet that hurt!

Have a look at these:

Apps don't always store this info in registry, they make it super hard for you to find it for the whole reason of the trial period. VM and snapshot is the way forward for no mess

Yeah i've done this before. Create a VM, and take a snapshot before you install the software, when trial expires revert to the snap and reinstall, and so on and so forth. You can share a folder to a virtual box VM, but pop the ISO in the folder. https://carleton.ca/scs/tech-support/virtual-machines/transferring-files-to-and-from-virtual-machines/

Thats got to be a faulty batch. I've had PIR in the loft which is years ago (odds and sods), and still looks the same as it did when i bought it

I'm probably star pupil here, but i'm not so sure the majority would be willing to change their lifestyles to suit. I do the following: Eat responsibly and locally, and have zero food waste Travel within the country and only when necessary (this is partly because i'm just a boring bugger, and partly because driving results in days of pain for me, courtesy of fibromyalgia) Be careful with water usage, only using just what you need, and harvesting as much rainwater as possible to cover dry periods Buy just the things you need, and reduce the want list to virtually zero. Repair when possible instead of replacing. I have both Solar and Battery, which allows me to be self sufficient for a large proportion of the year (around 9 months), during which time I export far more than i use and store to the grid Compared with everyone I know, I go far and beyond what they do. My motto is to leave no footprint, or as little footprint as possible (which was oddly something we were taught about in primary school for when you are in the countryside), and leave the bit of the world i have control over in a better state than i found it. As for your list I would probably add security, depending on how bad things get, societal breakdown is a possibility, and security will also need increasing for the whole supply chain.

Mine came from DIY kitchens, really pleased with it. Few issues upon delivery with an item damaged and missing a part, but they quickly replaced it without any hassle. Not had a single issue since.

I'm going to assume along the lines of the other building regulations, and obviously speak to BCO about this, usually you can do whatever you want to (in terms of energy efficiency, and in this case overheating) if you do something along side it to mitigate any ill effects which it could cause, so perhaps some kind of external shading to mitigate the increased heat ingress, and ventilation will help with this. I would assume fire escape regulations would take priority. Have heard other people having to do dynamic thermal modelling (or rather having it done for them) to prove what they are doing won't suffer from overheating. Luckily all my builds came before this was introduced, its certainly complex and adds a lot of cost to a build

Yeah they don't like the weight do they, fair comment i guess, 3G is very heavy Nothing wrong with bi-folds, as long as you choose the right ones! My Liniar ones are spot on and air leak free, and have been as such for 8 years so far.