MikeGrahamT21

I've been using these for a year or so, best ones i've used so far: https://ruwag.co.uk/collections/sds-drill-bits/products/sds-plus-rebar-5-piece-drill-set

I can't even remember what happened yesterday never mind 30 odd years ago! 🤣

I'd be very against anything like that. There is so much we have left to learn about our planet, and we have a bit of a track record when it comes to recommending something, to which later is pulled because its dangerous or has the opposite effect!

This is also interesting for a read: https://earth.org/data_visualization/a-brief-history-of-co2/ And this one does go back a long way

Will have a watch thanks. I personally can't make my mind up whether its happening or not, its certainly a good ploy to make some $$ if its not real. I do think we are looking at such a narrow amount of time though for our trends, hundreds of years, when in fact we should be looking at 10's if not 100's of thousands of years to spot the trend. He seems to stop at 2000 in his data, at which time the trends look like this: The actual and predicted trends are polar opposites

The prices are now available by region, this is mine:

All well and good too if your smart meter plays ball. My SMETS2 meter stopped working 17th March and has never worked since. Raised with Octopus, but nothing fixed so far.

It could get rather expensive in winter without a Battery, the ability to charge at cheap times and use that energy to avoid peak periods would be priceless in the depths of winter

Don't forget if you buy a new Kettle it'll make its money back within a couple years (Quote: Boris) 🤣

This graphic has been knocking around for a few years, theres no doubt that all needs to happen to get to absolutely zero, but I can't see a lot of it happening if i'm honest, but then thats probably why the elites have been playing around with the idea of population reduction for years. Saw a funny headline this morning regarding EV's, saying that older car parks would likely collapse under the weight of EVs if they accounted for all vehicles, so they will need to be rebuilt/strengthened. I mean who actually thought lugging around several tons of battery was a good idea? The fuel cell must prevail here.

29th March was last time I had the heating on, definitely an earlier switch off this year compared to last. Haven’t felt the need to put it back on again. Also have been off grid in terms of electricity for the best part of a month with the battery storage hitting full charge most days now.

I have 5.2.2 setup with downward firing speakers in ceiling, and an AV receiver, so don’t have the issue of eARC, but I can tell you there is definitely a big difference between my AV receivers emulated atmos vs the real thing. a friend has the same issue with his TV and sonos arc, he said there was a HDMI splitter which would overcome the issue but at a cost! https://www.techhive.com/article/579105/hdfury-4k-arcana-review.html it seems to be the only thing around which does this at the moment.

One thing I have just noticed is when the battery gets to 99% it slows the charging rate down to around 300W, and exports the remainder of generation, perhaps this limits the parasitic reactions in the battery

It’s entirely possible yeah

quite possibly would be better having a DOD at 80% and max charge 80% but 40% is a lot to lose to protect the cells, besides there is no functionality on my inverter to do the max charge setting. how much more do you spend before it would just be easier to replace after 15 years (design lifetime of pylontech C series), you’d hope in 15 years time tech would either be a lot better, cheaper or both. I’ve had system over a year now and only lost 1% SoH

theres 3 separate entries for the battery, updates on the progress i made I too was disappointed at first but I did make good in the end with many tweaks from the manufacturer of the inverter, but it can never be zero, I went into it thinking that was how it would be, but totally understand now why it can’t be achieved, at least on a system like this with CT clamp

Have a read of my blog, I covered this exact subject when I got my battery system installed, hopefully it’ll help you too. My import on a day with no requirement to import is around 0.3kwh, I’ve explained the reasons why you will never get to zero in the piece.

Just checked this and yeah you’re right, a very bizarre specification but here it is and the corresponding thickness of XPS showing R value so assuming this is wet underfloor heating, it’ll need around 25mm XPS, which should be doable with 20mm PIR. can’t quite get over that requirement, as it’s all inside the thermal envelope 🤷‍♂️

Heat won't go down into the room below, the only issue you may find is that the UFH's responsiveness is slow on this floor, since some of it will soak into the slab, however that slow responsiveness will end with a smoother heat curve, rather than fluctuations. If this is an issue, then any amount of insulation will slow this soak.

I think the heating effect to the floor below would be marginal, if at all, especially since you have a void for services too. Can I ask also, what is the reason for block and beam on all floors, is it purely for underfloor heating? I've not seen this used on another build before other than ground floor. Depending how far along you are, how about swapping out for i-beam/web joists, chipboard/osb floor on top, insulation with underfloor heating pipes in it (the routed boards), and screed on top? You can play about with depths then also, as the void could be included within the joists.

Assuming you are going full on with airtightness, I can’t see why you would need insulation on first and second floors for any type of heating system? Having it would stop some of the heat rising from other floors? I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong here…

Do you know whether it’s a cavity property or solid wall? if it’s cavity there won’t be much load above on that outer leaf, certainly above my bungalow windows there are no lintels at the eaves on external leaf, my windows go right to the fascia though with nothing on top, I can see there is a small amount of masonry on this one, could just be render infill and maybe why it’s cracked

I used the celcon trench blocks years ago, heavy buggers they were, but yeah did the job just fine. how about thermalite, tongue and groove with handles? I would use them if I ever needed trench blocks again https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185483333075?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dk9yp24sta2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=SHn2lQD2QEu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

they end up looking like this… this is a standard 15mm TRV with a Tado smart radiator stat and 16mm MLCP pipe going into a 16mm eurocone. The only discernible difference is the compression nut is slight larger as you can see vs the standard ones for 15mm

I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that without the gap the foil face becomes conductive rather than reflective, how true that is im not sure, but it sounded reasonable.