MikeGrahamT21

Minimum clearance underneath the timber is 150mm, that said parts of mine are as small as 110mm in places, but having cleared all of the rubbish out from under the floor, and ensured the gaps in the sleeper walls are free of obstruction it gets good airflow. one tip I learnt along the way, if you aren’t using a membrane to sit the insulation in, friction fitting PIR can be problematic with suspended timber due to movement, and I’ve had it drop through, so make sure you have something to hold it in place, I used metal clips every 300mm both sides staggered 150mm which has done the trick and foam the gaps up as any air movement negates your insulation. I totally get not being able to use enough insulation for underfloor heating, my maximum is 100mm. Couple of things you can consider… if you are doing the whole ground floor, you could consider adding another timber on top of the existing to increase height, either 50 or 100mm glued and screwed to existing, or (and) use an insulating product on top of your subfloor, so you can get boards which have grooves in for wet underfloor heating, or something like a marmox board to reduce the thermal bridge between subfloor and underfloor heating, depending on the type of UFH you are going for. internal wall insulation, as long as your walls are straight, consider full boards of insulation direct to the wall, with battens on top of them to hold it in place, or use insulated plasterboard, which if memory serves me you can use adhesive to bond to walls, but check the installation guide to confirm that

https://www.automationdatabase.com/products/siemens-5sv3314-3?variant=14325568967&currency=GBP??

MLCP any day, i used compression MLCP fittings, not had one single leak or weep, and no expensive tools needed

Adjust the bolts on the window openers so that they close poorly and don't make a proper seal, shouldn't be obvious and no works needed really, just an allen key

no looks correct to me as far as the official figures suggest

Found this on a blog… https://myhomefarm.co.uk/our-bivalent-heat-pump-and-hvo-biofuel-are-we-still-green HVO derived from waste cooking oil and fat has a verified carbon emission factor of 0.036kg/kWh, compared to 0.298kg/kWh for kerosene. This is based on the latest edition of the government’s Standard Assessment Procedure for Energy Rating of Dwellings (SAP 10.2).

https://www.bpcventilation.com/self-seal-conn-duct-to-duct?gclid=CjwKCAjw3dCnBhBCEiwAVvLcu4L5nW-j87wCt74jYJ-HdWNCoDhfo0Iwdxiae9q02dEWGUoWjiRwfBoCAVsQAvD_BwE you can get self sealing joints

@ToughButterCup have you ever lived in a property which has MVHR? No one else I know has anything like I do, and their houses are stuffy to me, but you don’t realise until you’ve had MVHR. maybe you open windows/doors more than you would if you had it, I don’t open much up year round, unless I’m out in the garden. And if you’ve ever seen a used MVHR filter, surely you don’t want all that crap over carpets, furniture and in your lungs? for me MVHR chips away at humidity like nothing else I’ve ever experienced, and the house smells fresh all year round, I deal with exterior smells with a carbon filter which works brilliantly. And the unit itself, cost me £400 off eBay brand new, plus another £150 for the upgrade to Hepa filters and carbon, the pipes you already have in place so maybe just keep an eye out? honestly can’t think you’ll ever regret it, just fit and forget for the sake of around 40W of power or less

Make sure you can access any mesh, as it will soon get clogged up on the outside. I doubt any insect death to MVHR would be measurable in the greater environment, most things will likely be midges which don’t live very long anyway

If you can make the space all round for it, it’s a far better solution, even filling all available space, think of it as a waterproof thick coat for your property. any finish can be achieved, render, pebbledash, brick slip, brick or stone effect render, I’ve done brick slips on mine to match the existing brick, so planning permission even where you are shouldn’t be an issue

Surely external wall insulation would be a far better idea? It’ll stop your masonry from getting blasted by the elements

The grey metal part goes on after skimming, and screws into the ceiling, then the white bit screws into the grey bit right at the end.

+1 for flush, would be a nightmare plastering round the duct

Rechargeable batteries are 1.2V vs 1.5V for non rechargeable, and some things won’t take them, Tado kit is one such thing, none of their stuff accepts it

Looking on their website it says it can be exposed for minimum 3 months, i'm guessing that should read maximum. It'll need rendering in that case. What is their disagreement? Do you not want to go down the PW Dispute route?

Technically it is possible, and called Hybrid Wall Insulation (and can even combine IWI,CWI and EWI, obviously you have no CWI but just to illustrate), but its only ever used if there is a reason for not installing more EWI. If you do use HWI, one side of the insulation will need to be breathable, whether that be inside or out to prevent trapping moisture.

I'm kind of glad July hasn't been too warm, as its enabled me to get more done than i would have otherwise, but the rain has been the main issue, and surprisingly, hedgehogs which have been running all over the front garden, until they mysteriously all died, why i've no idea, felt very privileged having them here. First bit done whilst the hedgehogs were still around, the bit i've been wanting to do the most, around the boiler and gas box, where the worst damage to existing masonry was. June brought boiler service time of the year, so while the plumber was here, he fitted a new longer flue, and also a new gas pipe from the meter to the boiler, to accomodate the thicker walls. Around the flue, I have applied the required dual density rockwool wall board, heavy but really nice to work with, with the remainder done in the usual EPS. Fascia was also installed badly by a contractor many years ago, so i took the bad bits off to replace later on. Fascia repaired, brick slips applied and gas box has been resprayed and refitted. I still need to silicone around here and fit the boiler flue rubber, along with cutting the waste pipe down slightly to fit nice and snug. Rear of extension has been boarded, and mostly rendered, the top part is also fixed now, and just needs a render basecoat on, and brick slips. Front is also complete, and i have since popped a trim above the window to cover the foam, this also needs a bit of silicone when i get a tube. Below the DPC on all sections of EWI, i've got a tub of black render to finish this off, which i'm going to do all at once at the end. Really pleased i've managed to get this far, i've still got to take off 3 rows of tiles front and back of the original bungalow to put some mesh in to stop mice getting in the loft, ensure the insulation is bang on, and vented, replace the latts and felt and tiles back on, a nice autumn job i think when its a bit cooler still, minus the rain!!

Definitely looks a bit off, nothing some extra tile adhesive won’t cure if it’s all being tiled. Also probably best not to check how straight the wall is with a piece of roofing latt! Get a spirit level on it, something which is designed straight

As far as I understand Multi finish has a longer open time, so you get a longer period to work with it, making it ideal for DIY application.

Have a look for a metal recycling centre nearby, they may well even pick them up from you and pay for the weight. If they go in a skip, they'll be recycled anyway, but you won't see any benefit from it money wise. Alternatively, leave them visible to the road side, but don't put on pavement, and i'm sure a scrap man will come along and snap them up. Which ever way you get rid of them, they will be recycled.

All i can say is count your lucky chickens that you've been on a fix through the worst of it all. Not an awful lot you can do about the current prices, aside from reducing your usage.

Also with it being scraped and not sanded, the asbestos in it is unlikely to have broken free, so even lower risk

of course https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7978985/#:~:text=The available data suggest that,order of years to decades.

Chrysotile isn't one to worry over too much, found this in a medical journal online and i'm sure someone on here has said same before: The available data suggest that chrysotile is deposited in the parenchyma but is cleared extremely rapidly, with the vast bulk of fibres removed from human lungs within weeks to months after inhalation Thats not to say it has zero risk, but its the less risky of all asbestos to human health

There is no proof in either direction, this debate has raged for decades... Even at 2/3 bearing loss, a brick would still hold more than 10N, and being a non structural element would never hold that amount. All of the bricks on my bungalow are laid frog down from the 1960's and its still standing, because the brick holds no load aside from itself and its counterparts. Also, the frog isn't there to just save clay (it does, but thats not the main point of having it), its to ensure that the brick gets baked right through without using excess energy or burning the outer parts UP OR DOWN? Some experts say that bricks containing frogs should be laid frog up so that the frog is completely filled with mortar. If the brick is laid frog down, the frog may not be completely filled with mortar. This would render the brick wall face-shell bedded, which gives less wall strength than full mortar bedding. Other experts say brick should be laid with frog down, for two reasons. First, a uniform bed of mortar can be laid more easily on the face that doesn’t contain the frog. Second, if the frog is laid up, any cavities left can hold water, which may cause frost damage and contribute to early brick deterioration. Some believe frog down is stronger, resulting in better cement adhesion and a stronger bond between bricks. Others believe frog up has better strength properties. The load is evenly spread throughout the width of the brick, all the way to its foundations. The debate has raged for generations.