MikeGrahamT21

Yeah seems about right for a lot of tradies, a shame when all that energy has gone into making the product. Also, your timber has signs of woodworm, has it all been treated?

Hi Adam, for over the cavity take a look at compacfoam at Green Building Store, in fact I think someone was selling some on here in the marketplace.

I’ve tried so many different things over the years, started with caulk, then siliconised caulk, moved onto Everbuilds 25LM, and just recently I’ve had to do them yet again, this time I opted for CT1, time will tell! It best bloody work at £14 a tube! it certainly seems to have stuck well. before you apply, lightly sand both surfaces, the wall and the frame, clean it with alcohol wipes and don’t stick your mitts in the silicone to smooth it out, a concave finish will always have weak points, get a proper tool to create a wedge shape

14 years and counting! lol Heres a detail i've found: https://polyfoamxps.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/10-Bel-DPC-Wall-susp-fl-junc-detail-showing-PF-at-door-threshold-Option-1.pdf

Depending on which way the joists are running, you could well be splitting that load over quite a few, or maybe just 2. If you can see where the nails/screws are in floorboards, you'll know which way joists run.

Isn't that just a house constructed from SIPS or ICF? 😂

Marmox Thermoblocks are essentially XPS with concrete reinforcement in them, where aircrete blocks are 0.11W/mK marmox is 0.047W/mK https://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock

Garage conversions fall under permitted development, so they've either been removed or there are some special conditions in your area. Looking at the wording, it seems that the original planning permission which was granted for the initial build of the property, removed the right to convert the garage without additional permissions. You have little choice but to apply for retrospective planning permission and hope that its passed, but before you do, go and read the original planning application documents. An alleged breach has been disclosed on the council site: https://public-access.horsham.gov.uk/public-access/enforcementDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=ROXOYLIJ0GB00 The old planning is pre-1990 so isn't digitised, but you can view it at the planning department apparently: Outline; 3 terraced houses with integral garages and parking (From old Planning History) Ref. No: HU/223/81 | Status: Decided

I’ve got this job on my radar for this year, years ago I blindly tried to get insulation in right place but I’m almost sure I missed bits I couldn’t reach. will photograph and document it on my blog on here

You'll have a job on getting the pipe plus rubber seal into the fitting, which will show just how well they seal. Shouldn't be any need for anything else. Make sure you clip the retaining ring into the fitting too. No need for duct wrap tape around the semi rigid stuff. As long as its decent quality kit, it should perform as designed with no worries.

not going to make a difference to smoke smell? I can assure you it definitely does. Gone are the mornings when smoke smell from wood burning used to wake me up on a morning. as with all activated charcoal it absorbs VOCs

I wonder how much the new ecodesign stoves give out, meant to be much improved

It looks like using blocks in block and beam is a bit outdated these days, i found several systems where high strength EPS blocks are used for the infil, which are designed for no thermal bridges, it wraps under the beam. What is the issue with just sticking some PIR on top of the slab, and then float a chipboard floor on top of that? Appreciate you'd lose a bit of height, but surely worth it?

The Zehnder one was this: https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product-category/mvhr-ducting/comfowell-modular-air-manifold-silencer-system/ CleanBox has been fantastic, just swapped the filters over (not the carbon filter as thats still filtering smells fine), and now running a G4 and a H13 HEPA filter. Old vs New on both the ones i swapped:

My builders used Xtratherm T&G on my extension, and they thought it was a revelation, made it so much easier, and no snagging your trowel in the fluff!

Just found this as an approved retrofit application: https://source.thenbs.com/product/energystore-under-beam-block-insulation-system/bhJN6zXr5iSRNwvFAYrW9G/bSUUubuFs5fkWDGuLZbRzW

I have 2 ducts which pass through a double wall (block cavity construction) from the loft into a vaulted ceiling, and these needed intumescent seals, as the wall is classed as a fire wall.

Also think about the subscription required for Ring too.

Also have a look at wood wool boards, which will also give some acoustic benefit too, recently saw a house with the entire ceiling done in them and it did look really nice

Not sure if I missed this above, but is there no option of digging out the old concrete and starting again with a modern buildup? another option, for limited space is vacuum insulation panels. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/products/insulation-boards/floor-insulation-boards/optim-r-flooring-system/ or aerogel https://enviroform-insulation.com/insulation/solid-floor-insulation/

im with you @ProDave having installed MVHR in a very leaky house, still the best money I’ve spent so far

Try the profile manufacturer, I got better results going this route

Yeah odd that it doesn’t detail them, apologies I should have read all the way down that manual, the Liniar installation guide does show adjustments, I’d be very surprised if it were very different to be honest. have you spoken to schuco to see if they have anything?

This is a blind guess, but there’s others too https://5ec-alu.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/ASS-70-FD-Operation-manual.pdf

If you open the door you’ll see where the locking pins go in, these can be adjusted to pull the door in more. If needs be you can also raise the doors, assuming it’s on a bottom runner, by raising the wheels, mine was done with an Allen key. if you look for the profile manufacturers documentation there should be a guide dedicated to this, mine are Liniar and have one