MikeGrahamT21

Yeah on that piece. You could also use the CLS Timber idea, and make a huge modesty block, running full length of unit, screwed to the cross member (or even better, down through the cross member) and then all the way through into the wall with bolts. Unit would still be the weakest component, but you'd have a good job breaking it

How about a modesty block into the top strut, and then a long screw or 2 (depending which way you install it) into the wall?

Whats the need to fix them rock solid? None of mine are screwed to the wall and they've not moved anywhere. Don't forget you will be bolting each one to the next

Yeah almost no one knows about this guidance, ive observed many roofs being constructed over recent years and not one had any tape in sight. Tyvek Supro is a premium brand, but i agree, there is far better out there, its also one of the least breathable of breather membranes.

For a long time now i've known about Liniar's Glazing Flipper, basically a trim which attaches to the middle of the profile with a rubber flipper as the name suggests, which creates a barrier to the outer half (where the frame drainage holes are located) and the inner half, and always thought it was such a brilliant idea, since the drainage holes will allow air to move freely around the 5mm gap all around the glazing, bypassing all of that expensive triple glazing, and thats irrespective of whether the beading fits tightly or not...but of course with anything brilliant, you can never get hold of it. Then when i was looking for something else, joint backer rod (the stuff you use to fill a deep hole to stop you having to use so much caulk) popped up, and i thought now that would certainly do the job, as its flexible, waterproof, cheap and hopefully airtight when compressed (even if its not it should be far better than just an empty gap), so i've bought 10m of 10mm rod just to give it a go, and will report back if its made any difference. I'll put it on a window where i can do one pane and leave the other so its a reasonable comparison.

This may help decipher what you should have got: https://www.labc.co.uk/news/understand-bs-5534-changes-roof-underlay

Always use a dark coloured silicone outdoors, it’ll pick up dirt and dust which looks terrible on white but not so noticeable on darker colours

For me I’d go with rockwool and a breather membrane, not a VCL (assuming this is into a cold roof space), PIR won’t sit nicely against that.

All of my extract pipes and corresponding manifold are as dry as a bone, have been since I installed them nearly 4 years ago

True but think of the money you’ll save!

It will but you can work around it, dot of silicone on the lug track to hold in place, and once you’ve got the face plate screwed it it won’t move anyway. The other thing you could do it shorten the track guides slightly, this will give a longer run and give you the satisfying click ive butchered a few of mine over the years and they’re still where I want them

Snip the lugs off or buy the deeper box version, either should do the trick

As others have mentioned, check how the unit is positioned with a spirit level. Some have profiled polystyrene which allows you to mount level, and some don’t meaning you have to mount off level to allow drainage

Assuming this is in a cold loft, I have my pipes running directly over the joists and then put 200mm wool insulation over the top, in effect burying them

R290 is indeed propane, I read that it’s a super pure version of propane and extremely flammable which is why they don’t use it in car air conditioning

Risk of condensation forming on any uninsulated pipes in a cold loft as the air drawn in will be much colder than ambient in the loft

Our local Lidl got its main wall built with these, went up quick.

I think even uncommissioned that seems way out. you’ve not got a pipe connected up wrong somewhere have you? Double check everything.

Ahh fair enough, you've a good one there then!

Are you absolutely sure and not just landed on a dab? I'd be very surprised that a 2011 property wasn't dotted and dabbed. Tap along the wall, it'll sound hollow if it is.

Unfortunately it is all too 'normal' for modern houses, especially of the age of yours, before mandatory air testing was introduced. As said above, the walls will be dot and dabbed with plasterboard, and the air will infiltrate from outside. There is no requirement to ventilate this cavity, and doing so will only cause negative issues with regards to insulation and airtightness. Theres not a great deal you can do to permanently fix this issue within taking all the plasterboard off and starting again. One thing you can do is go around the perimeter of the wall (corners, ceilings, and floors), drill holes every 10-15cm or so, and inject some FM330 type expanding foam, elastic, and this should cure some of the air leakage paths, and its wise to do around any penetrations in the wall also, such as sockets to stop air entering the room. Given doing this, it still won't be great but may help somewhat.

Just noticed on the Octopus app, Octoplus, which is their rewards program for ESO demand flexibility for 2023 and this year also seems to include free import when there is excess energy. Should be a good add on to flux or anything really

Look at Marmox/Jackoboard/Wedi style boards, these should do the trick in a single product

Leasehold means they own the land, but you own the property that’s built on it from memory, definitely do your checks, but I don’t think the freeholder would have any input on internal works, however they would on the external look of the property. Every leasehold seems slightly different in one way or another though so get someone legal to look at it

My heating is still gas at the moment, and a full battery come first thing on a morning is more than enough to get me through even a busy day with appliances, so going to stick with flux for now, I should have done it sooner really but to be honest was just glad to get a fully operational smart meter 😂