Barney12

Building you own will be cheaper and better quality. What you'll loose is your personal time.

Third question: Was the use of fire break socks to provide some fire protection (I'm not understanding the need for it as the frame is more exposed to fire than just the gap fill you created) or was it simply that they were a cost effective and convenient way of providing gap insulation?

Second question: Do you have a sectional drawing of your "tongue" design for doors?

Hi Terry, great write up. I was interested in your decision to sit the window on a timber carrier. When I've fitted windows in the past I've always just added the internal chill to the internal leaf. The result is perfectly acceptable. Was the decision linked to the fact that the Internorn window opens inwards so more clearance is needed?

I have been told by distro's for Internorm that they have increased list prices by 5% due to exchange rate fluctuations.

LOL. Funny how the bloody cat always knows your awake! I guess its the breathing change. I suffer from the exact same 'always on' switch. I've learnt not to fight it anymore, if I'm awake I get up, make a cup of tea and read*. Normally after a couple of hours I go back to bed, frustratingly though it can often be an hour before the alarm goes off for work. There are are a couple of 'distraction' techniques I use which can work (but not always!). Probably the most effective is A-Z; pick a subject (obscure is good) and then list (in your mind) things related to that subject from 'A to Z'. It sounds very simple but genuinely does work, by distracting your mind from the current swirl that has triggered the always on switch! Its a very effective technique to use with a partner too if you happen to both be awake or both can't get to sleep. You simply take turns to answer each letter. *I only tend to read on my iPad. Plenty of studies suggest the (blue?) light of screens is not good for sleep patterns but having extensively tried going back to paper I've found absolutely no difference.

Welcome and well done! Crikey how many years has Clyst House been empty now? Incredible really considering its status in the good old days of insurance. Having been to most of the Aviva sites in recent years it was certainly in one of the best locations!

Yes sorry, obviously that's only one score. I remain firmly at the bottom of the league table!

Thanks guys. Clear it is then!! Me 1 : 0 Wife

I really wish it was a vivid imagination.! Yes, that cost includes: 1. Ecology surveys (multiple) 2. Mitigation planning and the various reports 3. The costs associated with soft stripping (I.e. remove each roof tile one by one) and catching each and every bat and moving them to their new home. 4. An approximate "over" cost of the workshop with its various roost provisions etc. The best bit............. .............They only stayed one night and none have ever been seen again Here is a more recent picture

Sorry late to the party: £27.00 per square meter on Demolition £115.00 per square meter for initial groundworks (hoping to be a lot less) £440.00 per square meter: foundations, frame construction and erection, insulation, airtightness etc £184.00 per square meter for glazing..........OUCH! I've budgeted another £138 per square meter for; blockwork, rendering, roofing, roof line and rainwater goods. I was hoping that was high. Now I'm not so sure :(. Oh and £92 per square meter on ECOLOGY! [INSERT LARGE QUANTITY OF SWEAR WORDS] So I'm up to £858.00 per square meter for the above Some days I wish I had never started!

Whats peoples thoughts on obscured glazing in bathrooms? Its upstairs, not overlooked and thus I can see no reason to have it?

Time consuming and frustrating as it is it really does pay to shop arround on Internorm. I have three quotes for Internorm HF310 on my desk and they vary wildly in price for exactly the same specification. As @le-cerveau has said discounts of 40+% can be found.

Ive put these in my double headed tripod work lights. They're not as bright as the original bulbs but as you said they blow for a pastime. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p28889?table=no the 78mm version is here: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p52367?table=no

OK thanks, much appreciated. I cant see I've had a mail from you?

LOL. The irony is much in that video is true

Thanks @TerryE makes sense. The order was only signed with MBC a week ago so still plenty of time to specify openings. We've decided on Internorm HF310 windows which have an 85mm construction depth so no issues there. So keeping the questions in the thread (for the benefit of others too). Answers open to @ProDave and @Stones too! 1. If I've understood your description properly the marine ply shims act as the cavity closer? 2. Did you further insulate the shims (effectively creating a closer in the same style as the ones you can get off the shelf Link)? 3. Did you still install the windows prior to the stonework? 4. Did you use something like a compriband tape to create a weather seal between the exterior window face and the stonework? My my one last thought is would fibreglass sheet be better than marine ply? Proberly overkill as the frame is wood anyway. Glad I asked what I thought was a basic question now!

Thanks @TerryE did MBC provide that detail and the mounting frame? Or did you have to retrofit?

I'm sure this must be a really simple question but........... our build is: 300mm Twin Wall timber Frame 50mm Cavity 100mm Dense Concrete Block Render (10mm?) As I understand it best practice is for the window to be installed into the timber frame to minimise the cold bridge (makes sense). This actually has another advantage for us in that we have a planning condition that windows have to be recessed by at least 100mm. So, a standard 150mm cill is clearly not going to be deep enough. So what depth should I use, is there a preferred overhang to prevent water run off onto the render? I assume patio/front doors have the same detailing requirements but it does feel like there will be a lot of cill to step over? Note we are also not permitted any form of belcast arround windows.

Sounds lethal to me (Sorry, just couldn't resist!)

Hi All there has been a useful conversation over the merits of plastic pipe (HEP2O, Speedfit etc) in the following thread: Linky which triggered another question in my mind: What are the requirements for earth bonding where an install is primarily plastic? When and where should it be used?

Whilst we're debating plastic pipe....... Whats the score with earth bonding now? When and where should it be used?

I've done two complete houses with HEP2O and its really very straightforward as others have said above. Get yourself a nice sharp plastic pipe cutter and your up and going! In the house before last I employed a plumber to do the first fix and I was so horrified by the care free way she (yes female plumber) was hacking the pipe cuts and chucking pipe through voids etc I sacked her and did it myself. One thing you really do need though; "an extra pair of hands" when dealing with coiled pipe, its a right PITA and is soooo much easier if there is two of you. Especially if your routing through posi-joists which have webs like razor blades (well certainly the last ones I used did!).

If the self employed builder is your "only" contractor. I.e. He will be employing all other sub-contract trades then he is the main contractor. In that scenario you would normally have a contract. If however, you are employing various trades then you are the contractor and will need to register for CIS as your accountant has advised. Or put another way; if the ONLY invoice your limited company is going to receive is from your builder as "main contractor" then you do not need to worry about CIS (but he certainly does!). Or if you will have multiple invoices from various "sub contractors" then you are the "main contractor" and have to use CIS. however, even if you are not a "construction" company. if your turnover on "construction" related services is in excess of £1m you still have to register for CIS. Overview of CIS: https://www.gov.uk/what-is-the-construction-industry-scheme As a Contractor: https://www.gov.uk/what-you-must-do-as-a-cis-contractor As a Sub Contractor: https://www.gov.uk/what-you-must-do-as-a-cis-subcontractor Just to really confuse matters you can register for gross payment status as a subcontractor, subject to certain conditions: https://www.gov.uk/what-you-must-do-as-a-cis-subcontractor/gross-payment-status

I like your thinking. How did you decide on the 4 jig sizes? By selecting 4 from the 3000 as your "template"?