Barney12

Surely just a 3d model error?

The warranty is 10 years so it seems that all you do is pay for your electric up front. Plus I guess there are install costs on top of the unit cost?

Thanks. We had a 3d levels survey done as it was a requirement of the national park. I'm a complete novice on this subject and so need to read a bit more on how to properly read the document and use it. My regular groundworker has a slightly more "farmer" approach to marking out (Sorry the "farmer approach" is defined by "bout ere looks right lad" ) I'm assuming "GPS" (see top left of image) is a datum marker but I'm not so clear on "APS" (top middle as one example)? Its not helped by the fact that a lot of what you see in this screen grab was destroyed by a big ugly demolition crew!

Just to echo what everyone else has said, this IS the fault of the tiler. Full stop. I have done a fair bit of tiling on a DIY basis but wouldn't not even begin to consider myself an expert. The picture below is the garage floor at our place which I laid. The builder that put the concrete slab down did so with a yard broom and length of 4x2! Frankly it looked horrendous. But, it actually wasn't out by more than 10-15mm across various points but just generally very rough. As others have said it's just a case of assessing everything ahead of the job. i wouldn't consider the floor below a "snooker table" but it's flat with equal grout lines. What's more disappointing is that you've paid a PM who should prevent you having this pain.

Out of interest did you hire a total station or were you lucky enough to have a ground worker with one?

And an engine in it and drive it to the pub

Tell me about it. My drawings have steel and glue-lam beams galore. Some of them entirely cut off two of the downstairs rooms for cabling or ducting. I've spent most of the day trying to work out routes.

I've been pondering this further this afternoon. I think I might alter our design slightly so that we have a flat section of ceiling at the top. We've got ooodles of height anyway and it will serve as a location for the MHRV duct and lighting. We've not got glazing up to the apex so thats not an issue. I'm not sure that the aesthetics of going all the way to the top are that important?

Excellent, thank you.

This might be a question for @JSHarris as from memory he has a vaulted ceiling. I'm struggling to get my head round MVHR duct routing where you've got a fully insulated vaulted ceiling, according to my drawings all I've got is a 22mm service void. I've got the same problem in two rooms which have flat roofs in a dormer. How do I route the ducts? I really dont want some sort of ugly boxing. Or do I have to put them into the wall instead?

This is another area which is a bit of a minefield of varying costs In the last place we fitted Crosswater valves, they were expensive but very very good quality. http://www.tapwarehouse.com/product/DE2000RC?gclid=CNvy_qHltNICFUG4Gwodn5YNrA I know I am a cynic but are eBay seller ratings really a guide of product quality? Ratings are generally left within weeks of purchase which gives no guide to longer term reliability? Also any guarantee offered by an eBay seller is all but worthless as I can't see how you have any redress through eBay or PayPal beyond your claim period (90days?) I might be wrong though? As Nick said buying 2 or 3 is I guess an option for spares. Personally if I see something on eBay which is by a large seller I look to see if they have a traditional web store. If they are selling the item for significantly less on eBay then I start to ask the question "why?". Yes it could be old stock but then equally I know owners of companies that get rid of "problem" stock through eBay as the chances of recourse are significantly reduced. If the price is similar then I will always buy through the standard web shop, proper invoice, direct sale, credit card purchase. As an example this would appear to be exactly the same item Nick linked to from the same company: http://www.betterbathrooms.com/showers/shower-valves/ecos9-concealed-triple-control-shower-valve-with-diverter As I said perhaps I'm just a cynic and wary of evilbay

Just to echo some of the comments above. We on advice from the good folks on this forum decided to site the supplies in the permanent location. We've also added a caravan supply which has already proved useful. In our case it was in a perimeter wall.

Afraid not. Along with plant and tool hire its chargeable

By the way I cut out the 22mm chipboard floor with my little 10.8v Bosch circular saw. I bought it last year when I spotted it for £59 delivered (bare unit). It cut through the floor like a knife through butter!! First time I've used it in anger! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Professional-06016A100-Li-Ion-Circular/dp/B00IO14B70

I must admit I hadn't intended to run a hot supply but by the time I had cut out the floor in the eves to reveal the pipework I thought "what the feck", now I'm here I may as well do both!

So that's a productive weekend. All first fix for the outside bog sorted. Pipe runs for the H&C supplies were a right PIA too, I'm now crippled from crawling in the eve space to pick up the feeds!! Thats going to save me a few quid on a portaloo for the various trades. Well it will when I get the bog fitted! Oh and I suppose I had better fit a door too Had to take a trip out to buy a real of 15mm hep pipe. Yes, I've definitely got some but could I find it in the container? Of course not. I expect I'll find it tommrow now

£1.50 ish

Out of interest has anyone used these? http://www.cooperbline.co.uk/telescopic-box-mount.php they are primarily used in metal stud but you can use them on timber studs. Seems like a neat solution.

LOL, thank goodness I've got all day tomorrow to get them changed over

So here we go. It was the complete pia that I had expected! Before: Existing pipe cut: Finally fitted. You can just make out the slip ring from Wickes. Alas as the biggest core drill I have is 117mm so couldn't do as @Nickfromwales recommended. But I had to chip away even more of th wall to allow me to swing the T into place.

Thats exactly what I went to buy this afternoon. I didn't have the upward movement I thought I'd have as I'd forgotten that the shower and basin wastes were solvent welded into the stack so it wasn't going anywhere!

Ta. Just watched them. Very informative.

I was given their name by MBC as an option for passive windows. I believe the guy (Thomas) who runs the UK distro used to work for an Internorm distro. Their product is very, very similar in terms of performance to Internorm. Internorm are very keen to beat Gaulhofer pricing and visa versa so it is very, very useful to mention to both that you are getting quotes from both!! For us they weren't as competitive as Internorm but there wasn't much in it by the end.

Im not sure getting your cat to drink Vodka is a good idea?? Hmmm so is their marketing spell bolocks then? Removes adhesives, sealants, oil, grease, silicon, wax, tar, paraffin, printing ink etc. Leaves no oil film. Fast, thorough and safe degreasing and cleaning. Can be used on painted surfaces, vinyl, glass,rubber and plastics.

Newbie to UFH question time ...... I assume the yellow pipes and rig to the right are your temporary filling loop? Are the hot and cold valves your currently connected to for filling and the ones to the left (under the pump) for your eventual heating connection?