TonyT

It’s the devils own product https://www.remlandcarpets.co.uk/accessories/carpet-wood-gripper-premium?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping - LM - Generic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=126473660590&hsa_acc=9429565749&hsa_cam=13182193584&hsa_grp=126473660590&hsa_ad=522984152382&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-935585814383&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-qGNBhD3ARIsAO_o7ymw_Dd_6ZU5IlkSSqOFV6iV_U0-q2h7WOt4uZPMhxsC1DSHffZwdyEaAoLTEALw_wcB

Depending on skill level. shutter and pour concrete around pipes. remove shutter, bead of fire foam around perimeter ceiling/wall if required. you get rock wool coated with intumescent sealant that lets you seal risers, cut to shape and sealed with intumescent sealer. lots of options

Don’t pay them it’s a piss poor job.

Maybe not but the info might help whoever has to come and fix it /replace it. So it can save a lot of unnecessary grief

Isn’t the Op talking about the meter and cutout? Not the internal consumer unit.

That’s why you produce an O&M manual in the commercial world, details parts, suppliers, contact info etc

Fife Council want smoke detector certificate- found on Aico website so no drama..

https://ukpowersolutions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/UKPS-Electric-Connections-Guide-2017_v1.1.pdf half way down the document I think

Put the required detector in, take photo, update certificate.

Time to call in an electrician

mine next to house consumer units. 25mm tails go in feeding switch, 25mm tails go out feeding consumer unit. 4mm cable from generator also provides the feed for the generator supply, only used when there is a power failure. you could get this done as part of the house wiring and buy the generator later..

Garo- do a priority unit for showers but can be used for any load.

Get a generator changeover switch and install next to consumer unit. I have a TLC single phase unit rated at 125 amps so can switch the main house current then wire it to a commando plug in the garage/outbuilding , mine is run in 4mm2 swa /t&e in the house and external. when the power goes off, plug the generator in start and switch the changeover unit. I have a 2kW inverter generator that runs the lights, fridge freezer, heating etc, no loads like ovens, or immersions but thats fine for me.

Remedy the problem yourself with foam and tape then Give the builder a friendly telling off-and keep an eye on progress from now on and make sure he knows you are inspecting things in future.

Probably too late but you should have got every floor/wall signed off prior to plasterboarding/ flooring to allow inspect and remedy any defects before the builder hides them forever

Rather than a bigger pump what about an extra pump. I.e primary and secondary heating pumps, add in a secondary pump energised when the primary is active?

Keep everything in writing get a site diary, record weather, deliveries. persons on site, discussions made on site- then email confirmation later in the day.- this will help when the arguing starts later.

Sounds like you are trying my to change slate to glass, doesn’t fit in with my understanding of the scheme, however each should be considered in its own merit.

Appreciate some people like this method but I’m not a fan, I prefer to end the cabling in a box with a face plate and plug in a lead- I’ve flood wired my house for multiple TV points in different corners of rooms.

Thanks Dave will have a look!

Local postcodes to us have had power failures since Friday so a source of heating like a wood burner is great. I like to watch the fire, it also heats a large area of the house with doors open which I find helpful

Ordnance survey

See if you need a booster first. depending on your local transmitter it may not be needed and the passive splitter in your original post may be good enough.

Good draw on the fire tonight!

Grouping factors, ambient temperature etc are all factors found in the regs book not cable manufacturers