TonyT

A Shelley in a Joint box next to the actuator?

28mm hep20 for me, less joins less likely to create a future problem.

Why sign up for an install under a grant scheme and think you would get silent heating? even panel and storage make some metal expansion/ contraction noises. easy way to reduce stress- tell them just to forget about it, I’m sure the suppliers, installers, grant providers will be delighted.

Let’s be honest you aren’t going to give the new system a chance are you. that’s before any electricity price increase.

Plaster for me. unless your day job is Ames taping?

4 way Cassette air con units hung on screwed rod to get the heaters closer down to the working area with the destrat fans some infrared panels? Build a masonary stove? warm white lighting to give impression of warmer environment insulation? combination of all?

Is it possible to subdivide the space up? workshop office space, toilet space etc all partitioned off.

Google destrat fan. ive designed it all for you already want me to build it too!

Destrat fans too then

The COP goes down

And when you finish the build they may be ready to energise for you?

Air 2 Air?

This isn’t grid connected its vehicle to load, differs from vehicle to grid

So a few new cars allow you to connect load of 3kw plus to the car. so assuming you don’t want to buy a bank of lithium batteries to power your home, how would you integrate this to provide the same function? it’s an adaptor that fits to a charging port so will need a manual plug inserted

So a few new cars allow you to connect load of 3kw plus to the car. so assuming you don’t want to buy a bank of lithium batteries to power your home, how would you integrate this to provide the same function? it’s an adaptor that fits to a charging port so will need a manual plug inserted

I have this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGM125CS.html with a 230 volt commando plug in the garage generator plugs into this and sits outside garage 1.9kW generator powers whole house, sensible loads only

Time to bin the Architect as per the worktop post.

It’s doesn’t follow the manufacturers installation instructions?

it’s a common way of rewiring lighting depending on the construction of the home. was more popular before people started doing loop in at the switches. I like it because you just position the joint box at the loft hatch area so you can sit down with feet out the loft stripping the cables and making the joint box accessible and every switch has only one cable at it so nice and easy.

Agree with Dave, fit the gates first there may be the opportunity to do something then. a possible solution to hide all the gubbins could be a https://www.meterbox.co.uk/electric-meter-boxes/standard-replacement-electric-door-and-frame

If it cracks it cracks and it will be replaced in 2 months, doesn’t stop you moving in. living with a poor installation forever isn’t worth it. if the architect is on site 3 days a week at the end of the job and making these poor decisions time for the relationship to end

I’m sorry but this one sent OCD, this is expecting a finish to be standard across a build. to have a difference between the 2 is madness, just to keep an architect happy, you will probably have no relationship with the architect once the build is complete so tell him to pay up and get on with it.

Back in the day, the dunsley neutraliser was talked about in situations with WBS. https://www.solidfuelappliancespares.co.uk/product/c-type-neutralizer/

Wire every light and switch back to a central position and create a joint box that allows you flexibility. wire normal switches with 3core and earth instead of 2 core and earth so that it contains a neutral if required for electronic switching/smart devices.