TonyT

My system was radiators with trvs

I made a manifold on my original heating system using tectite https://www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/Brands/Tectite/Tectite_Classic/Manifolds/product/TM81_Manifold they simply push into each other to get the number of outlets, single versions are available too, this was 14 years ago and worked perfectly.

Like the concrete ring idea. Lots of good products https://www.sikawaterproofing.co.uk/products-systems/sika-watertight-concrete/ And a decent sump pump

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=Dirty Water Pump I prefer the lay flat hose rather than normal hose to connect up.

Or. Ask for a site meeting, due to COVID they will say no, and then forget about it, hopefully they will and if not the last comms was they were meant to come to site ?

The installer may have locked the installer menu so they get call out, it happens with other equipment so may be possible with this unit? dies it appear on the installer manual( may find a copy on the web)

Likewise, do nothing apart from wander around the area finding similar ‘breaches’

Agree 100% with this statement. my weather compensation on gas boiler turned off for just this reason

I’ve seen people use it for soakaways, but I’m a milk crate fan myself. if the bricks are decent and you don’t want them offer them up on a local 2 no hand website, someone may be looking to match existing from a weathered look

You have a body of water next to you, there is a great thread on Navitron forum where Nowty uses a body of water under his house to run his Heat pump!! he had copper slinkies in the water. https://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,29762.0.html

My point in having a heater was as a back up heater, I’m always keen to ensure a plan B is in place. other may have wood burning stoves etc indeed I have 2 wood burners as back up heaters and also a bit of atmosphere!

I would say yes, simply cause I think it’s easier and more cost effective to fit it now. and I live in Scotland too, so know that it’s going to come in handy?

Can’t comment on the above apart from making sure you have a good noggin in the wall to fix the radiator to. my cast iron rads have 10mm rods going into brackets fixed to the walls. we used a few 4x2’s to get a decent fixing

Agree with Steamytea, check immersion heater and everything to do with Hot water, that programmer if any isn’t on constant/ always on. should be regulated by the thermostat in the immersion heater cover but worth a check anyway. plus the electric shower will swallow a few units of electricity. Process of elimination, Sherlock Holmes style!

If you are doing that you should specify the materials to the contractors so you know you are comparing the same products. i.e. tell them that the consumer unit is to be Hager, metal clad, 20 ways, each circuit to be protected by RCBO, SPD fitted at incomer etc. Supply part numbers. sockets- MK Logic 2 Gang complete with appropriate back box and noggin/dwang to suit, so when they fit a 25mm box and it doesn’t fit cause the MK spec says minimum box depth 35mm they aren’t hitting you with extras/day works/variations.

if you are going for PIR, you need to factor in expanding foam, foil tape etc too. I wish I had shares in foil tape and expanding foam before starting

Just that they absorb moisture, and have never been used since testing in the factory so if you have an RCD/RCBO it thinks the circuit is in fault and trips. maybe a fan heater pointed in the oven for a while may help dry it out enough to operate. Failing that get a sparks in as per ProDave’s advice

I didn’t say remove earth, I said supply it off a non rcd circuit.

Do you have RCD/RCBO’s? it’s possibly tripping due to moisture in the elements, so if you were able to run it off a temp supply via a circuit breaker it may resolve the problem

I was building as the shortage of PIR/PUR boards I think due to a factory fire somewhere in Europe and I was also putting 200mm in the suspended timber floor between joists so buying 100mm meant spare could be used elsewhere in the build.

Keep off cuts of plumbers waste pipe too 32/40mm handy for those installing flatscreen TVs and wanting to install a few HDMI cables in the wall during construction to keep the other AV equipment distant from the tv

yes, I used 100mm first, siliconed this into the stud wall, 40mm then on top with staggered joins not matching the previous layer. Again siliconed the joins and foil taped. That’s me flush with the timber and then another 40mm fixed over the studs sheets laid horizontally. Siliconed and taped- then the usual battens, VCL and plasterboard.

You could fill the 140mm timbers, then overlay a sheet over the top at right angles, tape this etc, then fix battens for a service void.

Agree not to use it with joints for further UFH work 20mm conduit is the norm- other sizes are available so definitely get a cable or 2 depending on what size.

May be handy as a conduit in the wall for future works, install with draw string? saves buying kopex!