Roundtuit

Wheelbarrow and shovel for me, or bucket and trowel for really small mixes, but that amount doesn't go very far.

I've got a 10ft container to pretty-up at some point. I think I'd drill the holes first and screw from the inside into the timber, or weld a few angle brackets on to avoid holes in the skin.

Probably not a massive oversight then; more a difference of requirements. Night latches usually require additional locks on the door for security so are superfluous with multi-point locking systems. I can't really see an overwhelming argument for having one tbh, but if you can, probably best to replace the door with another timber one and fit one.

I'm guessing you're used to a nightlatch type lock?

Hi Margaret. Good to see you've got another project on the go. How did the last couple turn out?

We put foundations and drainage in, then delayed the garage build for several years. When you get round to building it you can still ask trades to zero rate, so depending on your build method the vat hit might not be as big as you think.

Sometimes, particularly with old properties, trades build-in a margin to cover the stuff they can't see until they start. Tbh, I'd find it reassuring to see that your roofer has done what he sees necessary to do a proper job, which is what it looks like from the external photos. As above, I'd say don't worry about it unless someone else does, but is there perhaps a warranty on the roofing job that you can offer up if it's queried?

Looks like a quality job to me (as an amateur). From your last pics, he may have raised the ridge a little to retain the original building fabric. Is it listed?

Sorry, no experience of biodiversity credits, but in terms of the approved plans, it could be that the vendors planned a 'path of least resistance' through the planning process to avoid raising any eyebrows or ruffling the neighbours. We had a similar situation and did eventually get what we wanted through a new application (well, two apps actually, but that's another story).

I'd guess that the foundations for that supporting pillar could independent from the foundations of the rest of the house and the crack is a result of differential settlement. A bit of digging would soon find out if that's the case. The fix depends on whether it's still moving, and that's where you need expert advice. Maybe stitching the crack and patching the render would sort it out if it's stable, or underpinning the pillar first if not? Personally, I think it's potentially a negotiating point rather than deal breaker, but it depends on how much hassle it's worth to you. You may also find that lenders are more comfortable with 'historical settlement' than 'subsidence'.

Cable tie?

Is timber frame really 'non-standard'? No problem here getting a mortgage or home insurance on our timber frame. We do have a masonry outer skin though, so maybe that helps.

I like glass, but maybe half of it. Dispensing with the dual aspect corner bits will simplify things and reduce structural complexity. You can still have the views, but through smaller apertures.

Same here. It took two applications, but we got what we wanted. If time is on your side, don't be afraid to revisit plans to suit you.

Vandersanden Flemish maybe?

Ours is outward opening, but composite with alu-clad frame from Rationel.

Ah... sorry, mis-read that. In that case your life will be much simpler!

Welcome, and congratulations! Old buildings can be a challenge, particularly when they're listed. I assume you realise you'll need Listed Building consent before you start anything significant; best to get your plans drawn up and submitted all in one application.

Does it have to come out? Can't you level off where the patio will be and put the soil behind your new retaining wall?

I guess they can only really do generic, but the conclusion looks fairly definitive to me I'm afraid: it's ill-advised.

That's not generally the case. Whilst no one wants standing water on crops for any length of time, run-off from agricultural land is avoided as it takes soil with it and causes erosion. In this case however, 'public field' suggests perhaps a permanent grass recreation area?

Yep, that’s one massive cat litter tray! As @Nickfromwales, I'd be looking at rubber mats in critical areas.

I'd suggest that building a house is significantly more upheaval and stressful than choosing one that's already built and letting the removal men work their magic. Don't let that put you off, but make your choices from an informed position!

Assuming this is just rain water off a relatively small area, is a soakaway a less expensive option? If not, then I'd say your proposal sounds reasonable; give them notice and just do it.

No idea what you're planning in terms of space heating/DHW, but as mentioned earlier, be careful not to underestimate the area needed for plant. I'd maybe get a kitchen designer to look at getting best utility out of that area; the current design looks a bit awkward tbh, and you need to plan drainage runs. No dishwasher?