Roundtuit

We had a similar challenge. Our railings were about 100 years older and had multiple thick layers of paint on them. I had to strip them in-situ using Nitromors and a scraper, and went over them with a wire brush drill attachment in the awkward bits before painting (wear a mask!). It doesn't have to be perfect; no-one else will look as closely as you! Slap on a couple of coats of Hammerite, (smooth dark green is my favourite), stand back and admire?

You've changed. Surely strip it back to foundations? ?

C'mon. You've lost it, haven't you...

Yes. Our 300l cylinder is downstairs in the plant room with no problem. As @PeterW said, if your mainspressure is ok, you should be fine.

Hi and welcome! Everyone needs a lockdown project - just make sure you get the best half. ?

I think colour is going to be more important than style; that's what you'll notice until you're up close. Does it have to match anything? You might also want to consider what sand is used - I've used sharp sand to blend in with existing old pointing in the past.

Your plinth build-up is the same as ours I think, but your cavity looks cleaner tbh. Can't see any frame ties? - that's where most of the crap seemed to get hung up.

Yeah, you could be right; more 'poly' than 'crete' Good luck!

The Aco polymer concrete channel isn't very easy to drill to be honest, and it's quite brittle and I think you'd break it if you used a hammer drill. I put a few in last week; broke the first one trying to break out the 110mm knock-out, so tried drilling the perimeter of the next one out with a 6mm masonry bit. I drilled two holes, switched to hammer and the whole knock-out fell out. Once they're concreted in, they feel solid. For 11 quid, I'd get one to play with before you commit.

Ah. Let's call it a Party wall then! In that case, I think all you can do is politely insist that it's all done properly (planning app, party wall surveyor etc) and hope the cost puts him off!

If it's your extension that you had built, presumably on your property, why would it be a party wall? Unless there's some agreement that you built partly on your neighbours yard, surely it's all yours? Or is that a whole new debate...?

I'd go 24ml/litre, and yes, it will probably take multiple applications. I've had most sucess cutting the woody stems to just above ground level and painting the freshly cut ends with a 20% solution. Incidentally, I've just gone over a trial patch of ivy I want to keep with a 1/4 dose to try and take out the grass weeds in it; I don't expect the ivy to take much harm...

You'll get a more informed reply from any number of other members, but that doesn't sound like much insulation. If you don't want to disturb your sub base, maybe raise the slab a bit to accommodate some more?

We intake from a north-facing pitch, and exhaust from a south facing pitch. No issues that I'm aware of, and not uncommon to use different aspects according to the designer.

+1. I ended up retro fitting my tv to the wall, mainly because I didn't have the capacity to deal with that sort of detail at the time. As we have a 25mm cavity, it was easy enough to cut a couple of holes in the plasterboard and run the cables behind without having to move any sockets.

I know it's semantics, but just for clarity, can we define a 'terrace' please? A terrace for me is like a patio or walkway at ground level. Your image looks more 'balcony', unless we're talking about some sort of roof over a patio?

I got on ok with Brewers. I guess it depends on how big your gaps are... ?

I tried to get vehicular access over about 3m council owned common land about 15 years ago without success. The council refused point blank as it risked setting a precedent. Maybe try for temporary access while you build, as a starting point?

Can't remember what your floor build-up is, but room-sealed stove with air supply ducted in? Mine takes fresh air from a vent outside just above ground level, through some 110mm soil pipe under the floor and up into the wood burner. If you don't do that, you'll need an air brick or vent that can't be closed I think.

Any chance you can move your air intake to a less vulnerable position?

You need enough room from the boundary to work to fix cladding, unless you can reach an agreement with your neighbour...

That's my experience, and it seems to be a shared view on the subject. Sounds like you've got the rationale nailed! From memory, the insulation BPC supply was only to cover the rigid 150mm intake/exhaust duct; runs of duct to rooms can be covered by loft insulation.

Yes, that's sort of the position I'm in. I claimed last year, so accept that I'll have to pay vat on materials and can't get it back, but if I pay someone to supply and fit, could the job be zero rated still?

Hi. Just for clarity, this door is between the kitchen and what?

Hi. Not sure if this has been covered, but can you ask trades to zero rate jobs after you've had BC sign off and made your vat reclaim? For example, if I got the house signed off and vat reclaimed, but then got someone in to do some landscaping (as stipulated as a planning condition), could I reasonably ask them to zero rate?