Roundtuit

Did they say why they think it's not possible? Might give some pointers as to who to speak to next.

Normal practice would be to order the windows to fit the openings... From memory, mine (alu-clad timber) were ordered to structural opening size less approx 11mm on each side to allow for fitting/compriband/sealing. No shaving required or possible. Don't know anything about UPVC, but I'd be concerned about the integrity of the frame if it's been hacked about that much. As regarding additional charges, as others say, ignore it. Whilst the money is in your account, you hold all the cards and don't have to part with it until you're happy with what you're paying for. If that means waiting for a BC inspection, then so be it.

Realistically, if you have that problem already, the new, more expensive problem will be waiting for someone to feel like loading/unloading the dumb waiter! Just put up with a load of crap at each end of the stairs (everyone has it ?), count down the years 'till the kids move out and invest the cost in a holiday!

If they've built the 'family home' several times, then I'd say they're 'serial self-builders' rather than 'house builders' (and hats off to their stamina!). Going back to the OP, at the risk of over-complicating things, how about a definition that includes the risk lying with the owner/occupier? I.e you build it to live in, and benefit/suffer from any profit or loss incurred?

I like it, but then, we've got one similar! Our front door opens outwards to avoid any conflict with the stairs, and the front door is only really used for occasional visitors anyway. I've put in wiring for switchable film on the hall windows in case privacy becomes worth more than £2k. So far, no complaints or crowds gathering...

Agree with @Ed Davies. Self-builders build intending to live in it themselves as a home (intent being more significant than duration). If you build (through whatever method) to sell on, surely you're simply a house builder?

Worth agreeing a cavity closure method with BCO; I think the cavity may need to be closed with a fire-stop. A typical method would be to use 50mm batons around the window fixed to the timber frame before the outer skin goes up, set back to allow some insualtion to be fitted in the cavity. You may need to find another method of acheiving the same.

Me too, and 4 delivery addresses. I included a note with the vat claim explaining what they all were (old house, rented house, new house/ plot, work address) and no one queried it, so I'd say do whatever ever suits you best.

I use cable ties, but just pulled up tight enough to grip without cutting in, and aluminium tape around the joints (not sure there's much of a benefit to that, but it makes me feel better!)

Hi @vk108. Done!

I'm pretty local to you I think, and have a local-made timber frame. Happy to share experience by pm if that's preferred.

Assuming you're new-build, then in-roof. Looks better, costs less. If you go for a tried-and-tested system, leaking won't be a concern. We've used Viridian Solar's in-roof stuff, but there are a number of people on here that have used different systems satisfactorily.

Might be able to find a home for some of those! Pm incoming!

RAL 7015 by any chance? ?

Not sure that there is any reason for the cill to be any wider than the structural opening, other than aesthetic preference? I'll shortly be fitting aluminium pressings, and they'll be the width of the opening (minus a few mill for fitting and a bead of silicon)

We rented for what turned out to be 2 years. A big lump of cash gone, but with 2 teenage kids studying, it kept family life on an even keel whilst the build was progressing. If we'd tried the caravan option, I'm pretty sure I'd only be seeing the kids every other weekend now!

Surely someone somewhere is working from a set of plans, and not just making it up as they go along? If not, or you can't get a copy, perhaps it's time to ask your builder to sketch out a plan with dimensions on it before doing anything else? If he knows what he's doing, it will only take him 10 minutes; you'll know what you're dealing with and what questions you need to ask, and the experts on here can help you out without having to have to guess...

+1. Can you disconnect the waste first (through that access hole) just to make sure you dont break anything that doesn't want breaking? It looks like the frame is screwed together; might be less messy to remove some screws and try and knock a piece out to see what's going on.

Is it OSB clad? If it is, I think I'd probaby cover it, depending on the spec. Orientation: the intermediate studs will always be vertical, so it should be pretty clear which way up they go. First floor joists: mine sat on top of the ground floor walls. The floor deck then went on, then first floor walls sat on top of the floor deck.

That tank clearly has been sat around somewhere for a while before it got to you. Another vote for Bio-pure here!

Hmm... is there perhaps a side elevation to the plan that we haven't seen yet?

Like it! Strictly Come Building. Pair-up with a professional to make you look half competent, share your issues and tissues with anyone who's prepared to listen, and you've got a one in 15 chance of coming out a winner! Oh... Hang on... Sounds a bit too familiar...

You shouldn't need a respirator, but a face shield for handling concentrate is good practice. If you've got glyphosate mist floating around, the pressure is too high or the nozzle too small. It should be a fine spray, but with a big enough droplet size to make sure it goes where you point it and avoid drift. Try the sprayer out with just water in it first to get a feel for it.

Should be no need to argue. Them's the rules!

There's a lot to be said for an angle grinder ?