Roundtuit

You'll get a more informed reply from any number of other members, but that doesn't sound like much insulation. If you don't want to disturb your sub base, maybe raise the slab a bit to accommodate some more?

We intake from a north-facing pitch, and exhaust from a south facing pitch. No issues that I'm aware of, and not uncommon to use different aspects according to the designer.

+1. I ended up retro fitting my tv to the wall, mainly because I didn't have the capacity to deal with that sort of detail at the time. As we have a 25mm cavity, it was easy enough to cut a couple of holes in the plasterboard and run the cables behind without having to move any sockets.

I know it's semantics, but just for clarity, can we define a 'terrace' please? A terrace for me is like a patio or walkway at ground level. Your image looks more 'balcony', unless we're talking about some sort of roof over a patio?

I got on ok with Brewers. I guess it depends on how big your gaps are... ?

I tried to get vehicular access over about 3m council owned common land about 15 years ago without success. The council refused point blank as it risked setting a precedent. Maybe try for temporary access while you build, as a starting point?

Can't remember what your floor build-up is, but room-sealed stove with air supply ducted in? Mine takes fresh air from a vent outside just above ground level, through some 110mm soil pipe under the floor and up into the wood burner. If you don't do that, you'll need an air brick or vent that can't be closed I think.

Any chance you can move your air intake to a less vulnerable position?

You need enough room from the boundary to work to fix cladding, unless you can reach an agreement with your neighbour...

That's my experience, and it seems to be a shared view on the subject. Sounds like you've got the rationale nailed! From memory, the insulation BPC supply was only to cover the rigid 150mm intake/exhaust duct; runs of duct to rooms can be covered by loft insulation.

Yes, that's sort of the position I'm in. I claimed last year, so accept that I'll have to pay vat on materials and can't get it back, but if I pay someone to supply and fit, could the job be zero rated still?

Hi. Just for clarity, this door is between the kitchen and what?

Hi. Not sure if this has been covered, but can you ask trades to zero rate jobs after you've had BC sign off and made your vat reclaim? For example, if I got the house signed off and vat reclaimed, but then got someone in to do some landscaping (as stipulated as a planning condition), could I reasonably ask them to zero rate?

Too right... he should be clear that if you assert your rights to trim back growth, there's a good chance the tree will become unviable and wil need removing. Best shortcut that and take it out now! ?

Sorry, don't want to be negative, but your pics look like you've got trickle vents in your windows. If that's the case, I'd have a serious rethink about whether you'll get a benefit from mvhr; there might be better ways to invest the money.

Regardless of foundation design, if it's still only 10 inches from your build, I'd suggest it still needs to go. You can trim the branches back to leave your neighbour half a tree before you start, but are you going to be able to do that a couple of times a year in perpetuity to stop it encroaching? The landlord probably doesn't give a toss about the tree as long as it doesn't cost him anything, and he's possibly keeping his head down out of embarrassment at his parking-space deal duplicity being outed. I'd persevere at making contact again and reaching an agreement to relieve him of the burden of tree ownership f.o.c

As everyone has said, the risk is too great to do this half-ar$ed. To do it as it needs to be done is not going to be cheap. I like a challenge, but if I neeed that parking space, to be honest, I'd be thinking about moving house rather than this project. Sorry it's not the quick-fix you were hoping for ?

Yes, the Gem can divert power to a second 'appliance' when the immersion switches off. I haven't found a use for it yet, but I think it's used for things like water cylinder de-stratification pumps. If I had battery storage, I guess it would be battery first, then immersion for any surplus.

Sorry, I was referring to the mechanics, not BR requirements. All I know is that my ashp installer got a bit twitchy when I told him that he didn't need to worry about a legionella cycle...

Correct. Although if you've no PV immersion controller, you'd probably use the ashp's legionella control programme. I've got the Apollo Gem, and the immersion heater is wired directly in to it, independent of the ashp. It has it's own programable legionella cycle and boost facility if you need it.

Aldi special buy, online only; Scheppach HP100S plate compactor for just shy of £300 delivered. That's way cheaper (~ £150) than I can find it else where. I've ordered one to sell on when I've finished landscaping. (Yeah, I know, I'll end up keeping it if it's any good...?)

Fantastic location, and great progress.! Like your style; sharp and clean ?

I clicked on that! WTF??!

How well are the front wheels fixed to the body? I remember some old farm trailers (a rulley was the Yorkshire name for them when I used to drag them around the Wolds) being a bit unstable when cornering; I suspect you won't be moving it far, but you might want to consider the extra leverage effect on stability as well as deflection.

I'd put it on blocks. I strongly suspect that what starts off as clean stone will soon be full of crap and leaf mold with stuff growing in it.