Jump to content

Roundtuit

Members
  • Posts

    1262
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Roundtuit

  1. Or infrared thermometer. Finding the cold spot could save you a lot of effort. There could be differences across the party wall depending on how next door heat their rooms.
  2. Filter probably needs a clean. I had a flow rate error code this morning (Hitachi code 070); I think now its cold, radiators and ufh zones are opening up and blasting through bits of crap that are still in the system into the little stainless steel gauze filter. 15 minute job to remove and clean filter and all's good. (Check out youtube videos for filter cleaning- could be an easy fix).
  3. Brush it off, or if the surface is smooth enough, floor squeegee? (foam blade, not solid rubber, are best)
  4. And be too high? I know it's a bit of a thing to put the TV on the chimney breast, but it can be too high for optimal viewing comfort.
  5. Rainwater; I suspect that whatever you can do with your discharge, it won't have a significant effect on the flooding issue if the rest of the street is flowing into the culvert. Sounds like a bigger problem than you can fix, but worth exploring the issue with whoever is responsible for street drainage. Soil pipe; does the soil pipe running to the septic tank exit the house above ground level? If so, could a new pipe be run across the back of the house and drop into the stack on the corner? Not pretty, but way easier.
  6. +1. Mines never been cleaned. Can changes can be a bit messy, but let any excess go off then scrape it off. Same with the nozzle; a quick scrape with a Stanley knife blade before use and all's good!
  7. Best not to confuse hay and straw, but I think you're correct that small bales are now a bit of a niche market. It might pay to get straw baled specially to order, particularly if you can get it locally.
  8. Sorry you've got these problems, but it looks like they need to start again really, as the warranty won't be valid if its not installed correctly. Have they used that silver flexi duct throughout? Rigid or semi-rigid would be more usual.
  9. Assuming the screen is hinged to aid access, do you really want to silicone it? Maybe it's fixed a bit too far out? If it was moved back towards the taps a bit, would that help direct the run-off back into the bath rather than over the side?
  10. Poor job. As above, its the sort of job that makes you wish you'd had a crack at it yourself. I'd have a chat with them and discuss your concerns; they're all valid. I'd also want more separation between the vents - can't remember what the recommendation is, but worth checking before you part with any money. (And the plenum should be covered in insulation when they've finished).
  11. We'll be living with Covid 19 for the foreseeable future and managing the risks, so I guess you've got to decide if you want a heating engineer to come round and fix your boiler, or come round for dinner, a shower, and a quick scale and polish.
  12. Maybe I'm just over over-cautious; I be nervous about making sparks inside, but have at it with everything else in the tool box. This why we all keep the knackered chisel and the slightly bent screwdriver ?
  13. We've got 4 x smallish top-hung velux in our bedroom. I couldn't justify the extra cost for 3g (the rest of the house is 3g), so got the 2g 'comfort' glazing as the best thermal/soundproofing/cost compromise. I've nothing to compare them to, but no regrets 3.5 yrs in.
  14. Doesn't look like there is any thread on the pin other than the the end for the nut, so it should just pull out.
  15. Just had a look at the instructions, and it looks like the top hinge pin just pulls out without removing the nut, unless it's tight, in which case take off the nut, insert spacer, replace nut and tighten to pull up the pin a bit.
  16. Short term, sort the gutters and any other obvious potential sources of water ingress, then the general rule is: heat and ventilate! Longer term, maybe need to look at DPM in the floor, external ground levels and dry-lining problem areas.
  17. Proffesional products are not illegal for domestic use, but you should be qualified to use it. CRD website: "Professional products should never be used by the untrained amateur gardener". Seems fairly clear. https://www.hse.gov.uk/pesticides/user-areas/garden-home.htm
  18. It's not legal to use products that are only approved for professional use (even if the active ingredient is the same) unless you're qualified to do so. If you're not qualified, best to stick to products approved for amateur use if you want to stay on the right side of the law.
  19. Not fit fur purpose...
  20. Every day's a school day, and I sense a gap in my education.... why lube something that you want to stay done up tight?
  21. Yeah....maybe just ask them to check before causing you more upheaval though...
  22. Nothing to add but 'good luck!', and that I hope karma works it's magic. ?
  23. Definitely brackets; you don't really want to be damaging the factory finish on the frames. Mine were Rationel, purchased separately. You just need to be a bit careful if your tolerances are tight; I ended up hammering the crank out of the brackets as it was putting too much pressure on the jambs and bowing them in slightly overnight....
  24. Good advice. Luckily I was able to visit site every day and could take waste in car-loads to the local recycling centre, so only one 8yd skip used at the end for the heavy stuff.
  25. A couple of fire extinguishers wouldn't go amiss too.
×
×
  • Create New...