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Roundtuit

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Everything posted by Roundtuit

  1. Pack with slate if you're concerned; that's the traditional bodger's packer of choice 😉
  2. We've got a couple of rooms I've not got round to flooring yet (well...its only been 4 yrs...). Only light foot traffic and load of stored crap in there, but not a problem for the floor. Maybe don't sand off the laitance yet if you're worried about damaging the surface, and stand furniture on bits of cardboard.
  3. Looks a neat job! Has it been professionally designed? Seems quite shallow - are you down to solid ground?
  4. Yep, certainly has that warm, personal touch about it. Please bear in mind that it's only the opening offer. It will take another three quotes and a threat to go to Benchmarx to get to the real survey.
  5. Looks like a pretty standard request from a consulted. You don't have to do anything unless the planners take it on board and make it a planning condition. I'd give the planners and the archeological society the info you have on the site history to help them make an informed decision as to the benefits of an investigation. Best to avoid a planning condition being imposed if you can, but if not, it's not usually a show-stopper!
  6. As above, they should have been supplied with a thin timber jointing strip that fits into the rebate in the frames, so not visible when fitted. To be fair though, mine were big windows and hard to manoeuvre, and too tight in the opening to get the joining strips in, so they're butted-up and screwed like yours, but with a load of sealant between. I've currently got 10mm plastic caps over the screw heads with a view to filling and painting at a later date. Rationel can provide colour matched spray paint.
  7. Unless things have changed, maybe this is a clue re: design route... https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/27157-first-timer-essexlondon-border/ That's not what you need as a client. If your 'architect' isn't adding value and delivering what you need, change them. I did.
  8. Not a big problem, and an easy enough fix. I'd get the new linings in first, assuming you can get a decent fix, then just fill in the holes with a stiff mortar mix and plaster over the top.
  9. Great effort, but get some more soil over the top; if you don't get the top of the pot/compost covered with soil it sort of acts like a wick sucking moisture out of the surrounding soil and evaporating it.
  10. Laminated would be my preference for anywhere near stairs. Both toughened and laminated are considered 'safety' glass; the difference is that if the laminated breaks, it stays in place. If the toughened breaks, it breaks into tiny pieces and allows you to continue your onward journey...
  11. Dig over a trench about a spades width and 6 inches deep along the bottom of the frame so the soil is loose and 'workable'. Add a bit if manure if you have some, but if not, just use a liquid feed later if necessary. Scrat a hole in desired position so that the top of the compost in the pot goes just below the soil surface. Cover up, firm in, repeat until finished. Water well! Those cardboard things are designed to be planted and degrade, but they do restrict the roots a bit. I'd pull off any bits you can without causing too much root damage. The marks on the leaf look like light insect damage, maybe grazing by thrips or something. I wouldn't worry about it, there will be enough leaf to go round! Your old man is right; get them in!🤣
  12. A hearth isn't always needed, it depends on your choice of stove. This is ours; ceramic tiles over anhydrous screed, HETAS installed and no issue with BC at sign-off (England). (The glass on the floor was a later addition to keep the grout clean).
  13. You may find that anyone that's quoted for one of your potential Main Contractors won't be prepared to do the job for you directly. They may bull$h!t around being too busy to fit you in or quote silly high, but ultimately may not be prepared to risk jeopardising future business with the MC; that's not the way it works. If course, that may just be me being cynical, or, it may limit your choice of demo guys a bit. I'd be keen to get started too, but realistically, you'll only be gaining a matter of days.
  14. Google suggests that they might be Hepworth product codes.
  15. Yeah, great. The kids love rolling around in thistles and nettles... I think the OP was after a lawn, not a nature reserve.
  16. Normal fridge with a jug of drinking water in it?
  17. Great on paper, but blocked up with crap within a couple of years I reckon. Is it too late to keep the outer leaf up to dpc level as suggested by @George ?
  18. How about moving the soakaways into their gardens? Is there a reason you have to accept their rainwater?
  19. If it's just a bare plot with no construction started, I believe 'non-residential' SDLT rates apply.
  20. Best not to let the soil dry out; put a sheet of polythene over the top to keep the moisture in until they've germinated.
  21. That's not strictly true... all sorts of agricultural and amenity grassland is established without the benefit of irrigation. I wasn't in a position to water, so just had to time it as best I could to minimise the risk of having to do it again. If you sow in dry weather, the seed will just sit there until there is enough moisture in the soil, assuming temperatures are favourable. Once it germinates, you need to keep it going though, and that's not easy over summer if you have a big area.
  22. I'd leave it till autumn personally, but you can always try if you're able to water regularly. The problem over summer will be weed competition (and you can't spray off weeds for ar least 3 months after sowing...) and the risk of a hot dry spell scorching off the seedlings.
  23. It's a bit late in the season for seeding I think; better to wait until Autumn. If you want a lawn quickly, then turf is the way forward, but as above, watering will be a full time job.
  24. Each to their own of course, but I don't really get what the principle is? Is it a perceived environmental benefit? Don't forget that when you buy your water from your local water supplier, your money is also financing water recycling on a massively more efficient scale, investment in wildlife habitat and biodiversity enhancement, leisure facilities, investment in renewable energy, community support initiatives...
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