Oz07

Wow that's crazy. Are we in communist country now? What area without being too specific if you don't mind me asking? How is real estate worth anything if at any time they can come along and pull this stunt.

@Vijay brickies would prefer it as creamy as possible I reckon. Only problem is too much is not good for the compo. I've used foam for a tray before.

Was a good resource. I wonder how someone who clearly had an interest and was passionate about the topic just disappears!

@Russell griffiths What did you do for heating and water in the end can't remember seeing any topics

Mine is 4.5m and open with vertical bars, the wind still moves it!

Have you looked on screwfix can't remember them being that much

Poor pour preparation. Tongue twister!

Was the place nice @PeterW Last place I had with it ripped it up, sold it and fitted engineered. Just wasn't worth the aggro of ripping up, cleaning and putting back down. Would have to have some serious historical property for me to be bothered doing that!

@MortarThePoint the rafter roll maintains the 50mm vent. You fix it on a bit loose like your membrane and it follows the drape. Then you just make sure you don't ram your insulation in too tight

Why wouldn't you put the eggbox crap in? It's literally cheap as chips. Also the over fascia vents I think finish a roof off nicely. I always have over fascia vents roll out rafter tray Breathable membrane vented dry ridge. I was always to understand more ventilation is better than none in a roof space. Last place I put bedded ridge on with fascia vents years ago got condensation in winter in roof space. We went back and put 3 vent tiles on the cold side of the roof 2/3 up and it fixed it

Mine is a sliding gate had a trench about 300 square 1.8 long with 2 further holes. The steel was like an rsj goal post buried in concrete. If op is having swinging gates I think you'd need steel post buried in foundation quite deep to take the weight. Bricks built around this.

Always use it Regardless and always put over fascia vents on under eaves support tray. For what it costs it's not worth emitting.

Egg box sh!t. As in " get me another roll of that egg box sh!t"

Use outside edge. In that case plum a line up your trusses where outside of plate is and measure that height

Cut your wall plate corners at 45 to the thickness of your hip. 35/45mm. This will make it work easier in your head. Leave the height above plate the same where the hips meet the 45 corners the same as the height above plate on all your other birdsmouths

Can't see need either

Which in bricklayer speak becomes a quarter of a inch, obviously then meaning half an inch wider!

So back boxes chopped in and capping over chases? What did you do behind the back box and behind capping?

@joe90 Had solid plaster. Did you have chases?

You do see it often on sites bricks left out for this reason. For me it would give more reason just to use batts

Any give water a way to track across?!

7 years of gas safety refund for a start

Also I would favour batts if ever having to form a tray at dpc level. It doesn't take much dropped compo to bridge a cavity. Horses for courses.

Think I'd favour beads if I could get them at a reasonable price. Always used batts or blown in fibre up to now. Where i am is forgiving weather wise though. They have been using the beads on a job I've been on recently think they need to up the glue ratio it has been snowing whenever a hole is made.

I meant to block off top cavity @Mr Punter