Oz07

I can always spot the welded mitres on the casements. Vertical joints would look a lot more authentic

Tilemaster do an external self levelling compound suitable for a wearing surface. My last garage was mint but this one I caught a cold with different batches of conc needed. The flatness is still good but the finish was dog poo so sealed with that.

What a terrible detail that is could in not be routed inside

The pipe size shouldn't impact penetration heights as you will be working off invert levels anyway ie bottom of pipe. It would only add an extra 40mm on top of the height if upsizing. Like has been said though 110 simpler all around

I think the gun can fire full heads but I just used proper galv clipped head ring shanks at 51mm

That's what normally happens. Strip rear to match front

If manufacturer stands by the installation then all is well.

If your joists are on 600 or 400 cut the sheets down to 2400 or get the merchant to before deliver. All short joints to be supported on joists. Long joins ideally t and g. Think you're ok without joins or noggins if 18mm on 400s or 22mm on 600s. I nogged my garage roof for the long joins only needed a few rows, set the joists on 16" imperial as was easier.

What's the detail for sealing pipes like this in basement where they exit the wall and still allowing for movement. Are they solid in the wall with flex bands and rocker pipe outside?

Interesting stepping up to 150. Looks like you have room to bring that 90 connection into the drain within the top third of pipe which is I believe what building regs ask for. Your ridding points would be on the stack in cupboards above

Not sure if be happy with that connection, feels a bit unnatural. Would it be accessible to rod from both cupboards or hatches in basement ceiling? I'm sure it would be fine, after all I've got flush invert 90 Dec junction IC and I've never had to lift the lid due to blockage. As long as there was rodding from both ends available, it's pretty close to the IC outside so any problems should be fine. Have you got depth to have the c pipe run 2 or 3 inch higher then a little 15 or 22 bend downwards before it hits the 90 junction? @Nickfromwales is your man to comment.

The planning system is the problem. The govt should allocate land for housing with minimum and maximum densities and building heights. The rest should be left to building regs.

Also 3 and 1. @PeterW must be getting his cement like he gets everything else...cheap as fu*k I was more like 5 maybe 6 definatley not 3

I used a stiff brush and destroyed 2 on mine. It kills the bristles

Didn't someone link this the other day? It seemed to me the 150m was earmarked for consultants and thinkers rather than actually paying for bricks or land or anything tangible. It's more money down the drain plain and simple.

Have you heard of the insulating blocks? Perisul or marmox or whatever they are? Think most use these in this situation.

Do you think you're better off this way? Im the opposite 99% of the time try to pay day rate. I'd say if you're fair and the guys you're using are trustworthy its usually cheaper on a day rate. Not many subbies go around under pricing their quotes

Mines been done like that. Score just over 1 on the air test. That's good enough for me

No chance. Forget that.

Not true if parged and detailed correctly

Trade waste centre as general waste by weight got to be cheapest legitimate disposal. Skips are all about volume.

Looks great btw

Does your uhf go underneath your steel? Do you staple it to bottom of insulation and if so what about dpm Edit sorry just read it's below eps

Just go 15mm. I used to go 12.5mm on nogs but 15 is so much easier. I see a lot of jobs where they go 12.5 on 600s with no nogging and all seems to be fine no more or less cracking than any other houses. I wouldn't do it but anecdotally it's not the end of the world.

You probably don't see many TRAVELLER caravan enthusiasts round your way